Wilton vise saved from the scrap yard

[radgto]

A guy at work was going to take this to the metal scrappers, apparently he set it on the grass next to his garage 3 years ago and had to dig it up because it was almost completely buried in the dirt.

This is it after rinsing the dirt off.

It's in rough shape but looks like a nice resto candidate. No cracks or welds I can see. Only a broken jaw.

Wilton 1765, made in USA. Price... $20
Now I just need to figure out how to disassemble it.

EDIT: Forgot to mention it's completely frozen up.

 

[toolchaser]

Its not uncommon for Wiltons of that style to lock up if they have seen much time outside. The ram fit is extremely close tolerance, so very little rust will bind one up due to such a large surface area. Set it up on end and soak with your favorite penetrating oil. If it comes to it you can remove the end cap for better access. Graingers has a good exploded view for reference.

 

[jeff g]

Hi
put it in an oil bath for 2-3 weeks
jeff

 

[kc-steve]

Hi
put it in an oil bath for 2-3 weeks
jeff

I have heard that newer engine oils are good for rust removal and such things because of all the additives they have now. I haven't tried it but will soon as I have something worth dipping.

Steve

 

[NUTTSGT]

Even after three years outside, it still looks like it's in nice shape.

 

[warmpancakes]

I soaked mine in vinegar for a week broke fre easily take the end cap off so vinegar can get in from both sides

 

[srmofo]

There was an epic battlethread, between a guy and a vise. It took him several years to get it apart, but he finally won. it was a good read. Ill see if I can dig it up.

Btw yours is in much better shape than his was.

 

[barcalo]

For $20 and some hard work you saved a nice tool from getting scrapped. That is cool. I think scrapping items that are not useful any longer a great thing. I think scrapping items with real use sad and a waste. You sir actually did something more "green" than most save the planet types.

 

[Danglerb]

I'd put it in a bag with Marvel Mystery Oil, let it soak for a week or so, then see what wiggles. Repeat.

 

[warmpancakes]

if you dont wanna mess with it Im local and would love another project

 

[Packard V8]

Get a an oil change shop to save you a 5-gal bucket of automatic transmission fluid. Add a can of acetone, drop in the vise and let it soak until you've found a new pair of jaws for it. FWIW, last I priced them, new jaws were $35 for your $20 vise.

jack vines

 

[John Timmins]

I have heard of people having excellent results with the acetone and transmission fluid Mr. Vines just mentioned. I also hear good things about Marvel.

Personally I always use gentle heat and bees wax. Heat just enough to melt the wax. It will seep in. Repeat this as many times as needed.

All merchant ships have blocks of bees wax in the machine shop. sometimes we'd put that rose bud torch to something as big as the vice.

You can buy the bees wax online for about $1 a puck or go to a place that sells honey. We have roadside stands with honey and they usually have wax.

I'm the the antique outboard club of America and numerous times I hear people freeing up stuck outboards using these methods

 

[warmpancakes]

or find a place that powder coats and have them bake it in the oven for an hour of so

 

[Rickster]

Bucket of trans fluid and let it soak for a few days, Then work it a bit and soak some more. I use the trans fluid soak for any stuck ratchets. Works great. Also to lube up a sticky ratchet.

 

[bigcaddy]

I have heard of people having excellent results with the acetone and transmission fluid Mr. Vines just mentioned. I also hear good things about Marvel.

Personally I always use gentle heat and bees wax. Heat just enough to melt the wax. It will seep in. Repeat this as many times as needed.

All merchant ships have blocks of bees wax in the machine shop. sometimes we'd put that rose bud torch to something as big as the vice.

You can buy the bees wax online for about $1 a puck or go to a place that sells honey. We have roadside stands with honey and they usually have wax.

I'm the the antique outboard club of America and numerous times I hear people freeing up stuck outboards using these methods

I've never heard of using bees wax to unstick metal but its used for many other lubrication purposes like making a wood drawer slide easier on a wooden track.

I'll have to try that some time soon considering my new tool i got today. I've got a neighbor that i bring old signs, license plates and car parts for his garage and he usually pays cash or, like today, with a brand new Benz-o-matic trigger start torch. I just need to find some rusty stuck together metal now.

 

[Outlawmws]

The used ****** fluid sounds like an inexpensive option, or you can dump the whole thing into an electrolysis tank and see where you get (I've had VERY good luck doing things that are completely frozen up...)

 

[autopts]

FWIW, last I priced them, new jaws were $35 for your $20 vise.

jack vines

Hey Jack, when you see those $35 jaws for a 1765 let me know please.
Nick

 

[bgott]

Read and enjoy!

http://www.cutterod.com/vise_saga_prelude.htm

 

[radgto]

Well after 2 cans of WD40 I managed to get it mostly apart.

It was missing the end cap and had a broken dowl pin which cocked the sleeve that holds the part the screw goes into.

I have it apart aside from the sleeve part and the dynamic jaw which are not budging at all. It's currently standing on end with oil around the jaw until I can get more oil or ATF to sit it in.

Cheapest price I can find on jaws is about $60, cash is a little tight for the next month, so I have time to get the jaw free.

It makes my USA made 5 1/2 inch Craftsman look like a toy. I can't wait to get it back together and mounted.

I will do a full restore thread once I have it apart and have the end cap, jaws and name plate.

Thanks for the ideas on how to get it free.

 

[Hephaestus29]

Marvel Mystery Oil works good on stuck piston rings, you might try that.

I made a set of jaws for a vice my dad has, it's pretty easy just a couple pieces of steel, squared up in the mill & a couple of mounting holes in each one.

 

[Lookin4'67Galaxieconv]

Another epic vise thread from our own BWP:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38267&highlight=vise&showall=1

 

[radgto]

Well after a couple days of soaking in used oil... Nothing!

Can't pry it open, can't hammer it open, still can't get that back screw piece out because it's cocked so bad from the dowel pin being broken.

I brought home a couple pins last night to put the screw assembly back together and see if it'll bust the jaw free after a few wacks with a brass hammer.

 

[sometoyotaguy]

It sounds like a good candidate for electrolysis or a molasses bath.

 

[kythri]

Are you unable to grab that pin and pull it all the way through the inside?

 

[radgto]

The pins are completely removed.

That is sunlight shining through the pin hole, the picture just makes it look like the pin is hanging there.

 

[kythri]

Ah, gotcha.

You know, reading this thread and the other ones that have been posted, almost makes me wish I had one of these rusted-shut vises of my own.

Ever since someone posted this:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_47608_47608

And I bought one, I really really REALLY want to whack it against something.

(Not saying it would solve anything, but it'd be a decent application...)

 

[Packard V8]

Now you'll learn how much patience you really have.

1. Soaking in ATF/acetone is slow, inexpensive and easy. No repainting required.
2. Electrolysis is quicker, but requires machinery, electricity, chemicals and setup. Repainting is required.
3. The hot wrench will give immediate results, but will then will require sand/shot blasting and repainting.

jack vines

 

[Chuck McB]

Electrolysis is fun and I used it to de-rust a vise that was rusted stuck. My Dad had an old adjustable wrench that was a lump of corrosion he couldn't get cleaned up with normal methods so he turned it over to me. It is now in his collection of antique hand tools and works just fine. Try it you may like it!

 

[radgto]

I'm thinking electrolysis is the only thing that's going to work.

I soak it a couple days... spend 30 mins or so trying to break it free.. give up, and repeat a couple days later.

I have accomplished a couple things though.

Smashed my finger damn good with a drift and 5lb sledge.
Ripped my vise off my bench
Pissed my fiance off by tracking dirty oil on the kitchen floor.

I will not give up though.. It breaks loose or I die trying.

 

[Outlawmws]

I'm thinking electrolysis is the only thing that's going to work.

I soak it a couple days... spend 30 mins or so trying to break it free.. give up, and repeat a couple days later.

I have accomplished a couple things though.

Smashed my finger damn good with a drift and 5lb sledge.
Ripped my vise off my bench
Pissed my fiance off by tracking dirty oil on the kitchen floor.

I will not give up though.. It breaks loose or I die trying.

I can see this as the start of a script for "Vise! The Movie..."

 

[admranger]

Just don't say: "Hey y'all, watch this..." right before trying something new to free up the vise.

 

[Davefr]

Do you have access to a hydraulic separator?

I wonder if one of these slipped between the two jaws could break it loose?

 

[warmpancakes]

Take it to the acid dippers in Toledo. 30.00 #and done over night

 

[spongerich]

I bought an old Parker that had a LOT more rust than that. About 40 hours in my electrolysis bath freed it.

Every day or so, I'd take it out.. give it a few light whacks with a hammer and then back into the ****** tank. Lather, rinse, repeat until free.

 

[FJ 432]

I bought an old Parker that had a LOT more rust than that. About 40 hours in my electrolysis bath freed it.

Every day or so, I'd take it out.. give it a few light whacks with a hammer and then back into the ****** tank. Lather, rinse, repeat until free.

Do you have an after picture. That was a mess!

 

[DRhodes]

I'm anxious to see the restoration process. Very nice vise.

 

[Outlawmws]

The quick version of electrolysis: Just go do it...

Materials needed:

Plastic bucket/container

A battery charger (preferably an older "dumb" one with a real transformer)

Spa chem PH + (spa/pool chemical) or washing soda (Arm and Hammer?)

Some iron/steel (NOT SS!) for an anode (rebar works great)

Some iron wire to connect to the submerged parts, (small parts I often suspend in the bucket from a cross bar and the wire)

And set it up like this:

I often use a 5 gallon plastic bucket, and fill it near full with water 4-to 4-1/2 gal?) not critical...

throw in about a handful of the PH+ or Washing soda.

Set up some anodes, (you can use wire to connect them together)

Make sure the part does not/will not touch the anodes, and connect the charger leads. turn it on and look for bubbles to start forming on the part.

If bubbles are forming on the part, go work on something else or go watch the game…

4-8 hours later check on it. it will likely have the water surface covered with a nasty red scum/foam, you can scrape/lift this off if desired.

As the water evaporates over days/weeks, of use (or non use) just add water, you don't need to add the PH+ it does not evaporate...


tons of info available on line, just Google "electrolysis rust.

Last comment anything in the "soup" needs to be iron or common steel; no plating, chrome, copper (wire) and definitely not SS!

The left over residue is an iron rich soup and is safe enough to add to your garden for iron/alkaline loving plants...

 

[zoomieport]

I see you've got a "little gap" between the jaws... I cut a piece of threaded rod the same size as the gap, threaded on two nuts, put it between the jaws, then backed the nuts "out" with open end wrenches, SLOWLY! Mine worked this way, after soaking, electrolysis, hammering, etc... So IDK if it was ready to "go" and I got lucky or if my rod/nut method worked, worth a shot... Similar to a hydaulic separator, but easier to find and a lot less expensive...unless you have access to one, I didn't. GOOD LUCK!

BTW, you're gonna be pissed when you see what is causing the problem... mine was stuck by a "rust ring" that was etched in the slide that was about 1/32" wide... I was shocked at how good the rest looked and the fact that all that was there was that 32nd of an inch of rust holding on... RUST IS TOUGH, i guess...

 

[Garyss.smith]

I found a wilton 450 vise last jan that was rusted solid. I also had a small amount of gap between the two jaws. I wedged a brick chisel between them applying a lot of force, then applied PB blaster into the rusted parts, repeat 3 or 4 times a day. Beating it shut, then open applying more blaster. and after 2 weeks one sat it finally broke loose. It was smoothe sailing from that point.

Here is mine: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=125078

Good Luck
Gary

 

[v7guy]

I had difficulties getting my vise back in functioning condition. But a combination of heat, acetone/****** fluid and electrolysis got the job done. You can find the link in my sig.
Keep soaking it and working. Eventually you'll gain ground.
Please keep us updated, we love these threads.