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Wilton vise swivel base broken

Elmo4895

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I have a wilton swivel vise with 5" wide jaws that was given to me because the base was broken. A piece about 3" long had Ben broken out and brazed back in. One of the joints separated and the other is sound. I have never brazed cast iron but I would like to fix this because the rest of the vise is in good shape. I have a ceramic kiln that will reach 2500 degrees Fahrenheit that I could preheat it with. I have a good bit of experience brazeing other metals including building several recumbent bicycles and motor bicycles without any failures!
If anyone has experience brazeing something like this I would appreciate any advise that you have.
Elmo
 

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Bobhdus

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Need to see a picture of the break to have an idea how I would go about fixing it. What processes do you have available? I've welded a lot of CI as a Maintenance Mechanic. so I feel safe in saying that theres never a guaranteed fix... Been a few times I added stuff to reinforce the repair as well.

Since this is just a Vise, I would say, depending on your particular situation, you can most likely weld it cold or with some preheat if using any arc welding process. Preheat is your friend but if a small weld here, then a small weld, there not letting it get too hot is possible, then you can just weld it cold. If using oxyacetylene, it will probably preheat itself. The time I worry the most is when it cools. Slower the better. More details gets your more answers. Good luck!
 
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Elmo4895

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I have a oxyacetylene rig, a miller mig without gas, and a Lincoln crackerbox. I am better with the torch. I added another photo to the original post!
 

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drivesitfar

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Elmo: while i'm not a welder i have read about and seen my fair share of brazing. i know it's more the challenge than the money so i'll only mention this once. wilton still sells the swivel bases new which will give your vise more value and also a lot of the other wilton vise's swivel bases will work with yours in case you find somebody selling one as parts which happens often. you might check because the last one i saw was only $30 for a used one.

now as far as i know the preheating is a must for the cast to braze properly and once you have done that the cooling should be slow like has been mentioned so i hear a pile of sand might be a good option to have nearby.

Outlaw seems to know quite a bit about brazing old vises as do a few others if you might want to post this on the vise thread or PM him.


good luck
 
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Elmo4895

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I have already contacted wilton and they no longer have a base for this vise. Thanks for the reply and the mention of the other threads. I will check them out.
Elmo
 

Bobhdus

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Seeing the picture now, just braze it with some flux coated brazing rod. Grind the old stuff out, add a little bevel for penetration and more surface for the braze to bond to. Put the piece in a position that will allow you to fill in the largest groove without the need to grind afterwards. Spread the heat out a little and fill it in and slow cool.

Otherwise, arc weld it with a CI friendly rod or wire (NiRod etc...). You might want to crown your weld to really overlap the base material but try not to add too much heat on that thin section.

PS- its already broke. You've got nothing to lose!
 
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zkling

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Given the tools you have, clean it real well, pre heat, flux it real well, and then braze it. :thumbup:
 
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Bobhdus

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There's always a lot of talk on techniques but you don't see many Cast Iron repair pictures on here so here's a repair I did on a Cast Iron Grizzly 3n1 brake/shear/roll. I did a slight preheat and then stick weld it with Ni99. That was 5 yrs ago. I use the heck out of this thing. I made a shim (not pictured) to go under the base gap to improve the design as that foot and gap is a stress point.


ImageUploadedByTapatalk1406169313.768482.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1406169327.735045.jpg
 

Bobhdus

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ATV control arm cast iron repair. Had to grind out someones attempted braze mistake and stick weld with Ni99. I preheated with torch.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1406170062.951701.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1406170086.535514.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1406170098.268505.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1406170116.385253.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1406170126.501419.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1406170140.118200.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1406170201.051412.jpg
 

Fyrme

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Elmo, it sounds like your best option you have based on the tools available, is brazing. Done right it will last forever. (I personally can't braze, so no tips from me)
This braze job was done twice in two different locations over 70 years ago and still holding up
Post drill 8 by Fyrme, on Flickr
Post drill 6 by Fyrme, on Flickr

However, if you have a friend or relative that has a TIG......
Wilton Shop King 4 by Fyrme, on Flickr
Untitled by Fyrme, on Flickr
 

Kevin54

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We had some guys at work that were excellent welders. When they did cast iron, they heated it up thoroughly to 600 degrees, pull it out and TIG it, then bury it in sand for a slow cool. Never had any crack back out unless it cooled too fast by just air cooling.
 

that-guy

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guys in our shop will do the same as Kevin mentioned, however when making several passes, it would be thrown back into the oven after each pass, then they would slowly turn down the oven to let it slow cool
 
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Elmo4895

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Thanks Kevin that is what I have been looking for. The temp to use for preheat. I have a ceramic kiln to preheat with and plan to return the base to the kiln after brazeing and use the kiln for cool down. I will just drop the temp a little at a time till it is cool.
That Guy that is my plan.
Elmo
 
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zkling

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Thanks Kevin that is what I have been looking for. The temp to use for preheat. I have a ceramic kiln to preheat with and plan to return the base to the kiln after brazeing and use the kiln for cool down. I will just drop the temp a little at a time till it is cool.
That Guy that is my plan.
Elmo

If you are gas brazing the preheat isn't as critical compared to the focused electrical arc of welding or brazing. I just wave the torch around the surrounding area for a bit to get the piece up to temp. It's not a large enough casting to really soak up the heat.
 
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