wilton vises
- Thread starter toddjg
- Start date
Defender Chassis
Well-known member
Seems like I remember a rebuild thread on a Wilton vise over on the shopfloortalk board. You might go over there and do a search.
Go to shopfloortalk.com and do a search for cutters vise. Its quite the saga.
Rory Bellows
Well-known member
Cutter's thread on shop floor talk won't tell you anything about how to disassemble it. Remove the screw first by removing the 3 screws on the front. When removed you can take a dowel rod and punch out the back cap. Then use a pin punch and tap them into the vise. With the rear cap removed you get a good view of it.
Then degrease, clean, paint, regrease, and assemble. I've tore down two Wilton's and their easy after one time. I will admit when I did my first I thought I was going to damage something tapping the pins in.
Then degrease, clean, paint, regrease, and assemble. I've tore down two Wilton's and their easy after one time. I will admit when I did my first I thought I was going to damage something tapping the pins in.
The pins in the back hold the nut in. Really unless the threads are stripped on the spindle and or nut, I would not remove the nut and pins. One other note the Manufacturing date is stamped on the key that is on the bottom side of the moveable jaw. The 9300 is probably from the 60's. It should be month and year stamped on it. Usually if you just remove the 3 screws on the front, pull the horse shoe out the spindle will screw out and you can pull the front moveable jaw out. Dirt can not get into the spindle and nut so just a little new grease is all you should have to do to the spindle threads. When you put it back together put some grease on the spindle where it will be rubbing on the casting. Newer Wilton models have a hardened steel washer / bearing to prevent the casting and spindle from wearing away from the use over years. Your vise will not have that as it was added on the late 90's.
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Rory Bellows
Well-known member
Yes youn can push it out. It's like a freeze plug for an engine. Put the dowel through the screw (hole w/ threads) and tap it out. The screw then can be removed from the rear. It's pretty simple once it's all apart. You can also remove the jaws and replace the screws with allen head bolts. Good luck.
merlin
Active member
The ones on mine were 1/4"-20 socket head, don't remember the length. Has anyone found a source for the jaws? Or should I just make some?
There is no model number tag on mine, but it is a swivel 4.5", with pipe jaws.
Thanks,
Billy
There is no model number tag on mine, but it is a swivel 4.5", with pipe jaws.
Thanks,
Billy
Billy,
The factory uses the casting number on the side of the stationary casting to determine the model and what jaws go in it. I thought you may have a C-1 ( 4-1/2" jaw width with pipe jaws) but screw size would be 5/16-18 You probably have a 1745 which is a current model but 1745 should be cast in the vise and easy to see. Do you have a picture of the vise? I can ID most models.
The factory uses the casting number on the side of the stationary casting to determine the model and what jaws go in it. I thought you may have a C-1 ( 4-1/2" jaw width with pipe jaws) but screw size would be 5/16-18 You probably have a 1745 which is a current model but 1745 should be cast in the vise and easy to see. Do you have a picture of the vise? I can ID most models.
