Windmill restoration

[Wiebster]

I’m restoring my grandfather’s windmill that he put up in the ‘40’s. It’s in really bad shape with every single fan bent and twisted. I have a couple questions: I’m aware of the three main ways to remove rivets, but is there a suggested way in this galvanized metal? Grinding removes the galvanizing, drilling is almost impossible with the angled brackets in the way and trying to center punch each one perfectly and the rivets are essentially 1/2 long so it’s slow going (there are over 200 rivets). I thought about making my own rivet drilling jig that doesn’t require special bits but the slow drilling method is discouraging me.
Second question is I’m trying to straighten each fan without taking the two angle brackets off. I think I’ll eventually have to. Once I get the fan relatively straight I get this wave in them. I eventually plan on using an English Wheel to straighten them but keep the cup in each blade. How do I get this wave out of the fan? Metal shrinker? Would the shrinker ruin the cool patina on the blades? Would the English Wheel take that out with the correct wheels installed? Thanks for any advice.

 

[WisJim]

I have a friend who does this for a living but he's too busy to ask. You might try the Windmill forum at vintagewindmillforum.com , I think you would have to join it to get questions answered. It's a good group with some members who are absolutely amazing in their knowledge and what they have done, and the windmill collections they have.

 

[Wiebster]

Thank you for the referral, I appreciate it.

 

[jack stand]

I thought that I heard that "Aeromotor" either was still around or that many parts are available.
Hats off to you saving your granddad's

 

[36truck]

I would think you will have to take it completely apart to straighten it out. Grinding the rivets off would be the easiest way.

 

[Wiebster]

Do you think this is an Aeromotor? There are no markings so I didn’t know for sure.

 

[jack stand]

If that question is directed to me, I can't answer that. I'm only an admirer of windmills from the past and have friends that collect them.
Someone posted a link above to a group that I'd encourage you to explore. It seems that there's a forum for every intrest imaginable.

 

[Zeke]

Straightening wheels come in sets of 3. An English wheel makes a poor substitute.

You don't have to grind a rivet past the hole grinding off any plating. Getting real close will weaken the rivet enough to drive out. Use a thin piece of sheet metal with a hole in it to stop the grinding wheel short of the bracket. Use a new hole as needed.

I think you will have to disassemble the entire unit.

 

[Wiebster]

I wish that was the case. These rivets are so rusted in place that even grinding them flush, I’m bending the surrounding metal punching them out (about 10 hard hits) And they can’t always be laid perfectly flat on anvil or vice to prevent that.

Tell me about this straightening wheel. I’m not familiar. An English wheel could/would help keep the cup in the blade. I think anything else might flatten that radius. Just guessing though. Thanks for all the input.

 

[Sportsman762]

Removing the rivets is definitely challenging. I would use a drill guide for the rivets. Something like this.

Loyds Rivet Drill Guide | Aircraft Spruce

Loyds Rivet Drill Guide The guides are easy to use. First select the appropriate guide for the rivet being drilled.

www.aircraftspruce.com

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6JJ303/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I would remove the bolts holding the band together so you had 4 sections to work with. Then I would drill out all the rivets I could on the blades. Once you remove the blade on the outside you should be able to reach the rivets on the next blade. Continue to remove the blades one at a time. Some of the rivets will most likely spin so that will be the biggest challenge. You could cut a slot on the other side of the rivet with a dremel and use a flathead screwdriver to hold them while drilling. A second set of hands will help.

I am not a sheet metal worker so it will be interesting to hear others thoughts on how to straighten the blades.

 

[Wiebster]

Thanks Sportsman, I agree with all of that. I’m just dreading all that drilling. It’s amazing the holding power of those rivets, even with a hole drilled all the way through. If the bit is not the exact size of the shank it still holds firmly. If I go with the exact size of the rivet diameter and not centered perfectly, I oblong the hole. Ive attempted putting the sections on the drill press table but it’s impossible to hold the sections 90 degrees to the bit. Maybe after getting the blades off individually, I might be able to make something that holds the blades in the proper position for press drilling. Pretty frustrating project actually but I do appreciate the input and suggestions.

 

[Firebrick43]

Do you think this is an Aeromotor? There are no markings so I didn’t know for sure.

Post the motor pic with and without the hat on!

Looking at the hub it doesn’t look like an aeromotor to me.

 

[Zeke]

3 wheels in line can be radiused to maintain the cup but straighten the blade longwise. 2 above and one below. The distances should be adjustable or you might make a curl. Too far spread out they will be ineffective. You can flip the blade over to correct any errors.

This is as close as I can find and it's not exactly what I'm thinking of. Obviously this is something you will have to make.


This is too complicated.

 

[don long]

You don't need to drill through the rivet just a little deeper than the metal. I'd start with a small diameter drill and work up til the hole was just to the edge of the rivet then tap the sides in on the rivet before trying to punch it out. The hole doesn't need to be dead center

 

[nadogail]

Restoration Work, like Growing Old, is not for Sissies.

 

[cvairwerks]

Weibster: The key to drilling out the rivets, especially in tough locations, is to use multiple sizes of bits. You can figure that the rivet shank is a little less than 1/2 the size of the manufactured head. Start with a much smaller diameter bit and work the hole up using larger bits until just below the shank diameter. The last bit you use should be the closest to the shank size and only go deep enough to get thru the head....no more than that. When it comes time to punch the shank out, use a socket that just fits over the manufactured head and back it with something sold when you strike the punch. Use a punch that is somewhat loose in the hole, as you want the shank to collapse around the punch as you drive it out. Takes a little practice to get all the tricks down, but easy to do.

 

[lzenglish]

My Old Flint and Walling Star Zephyr Looked Like That When i Picked it up in the Farmers Field. Here is a Great Windmill Book.

Good Luck!

LZ

 

[csp]

I feel your pain. I started straightening this one, just for display purposes only, several years ago. The difficulty of the rivets effectively put mine on hold for who knows how long. Luckily the tailpiece was in great shape. It's an Aermotor.

 

[jabberwoki]

I'm buying that book ..thanks

 

[rixtrix1]

I hope your project is coming along well. There's a member here who rebuilds windmill gearboxes and fans all the time -j p smith. He lives across town from me in the Phoenix area and is a wealth of knowledge and experience. He's repaired many crushed fans much worse than your's!
First name is Jeff; his shop is to die for!

 

[rixtrix1]

My Old Flint and Walling Star Zephyr Looked Like That When i Picked it up in the Farmers Field. Here is a Great Windmill Book.

Good Luck!

LZ

There's a ranch ( Watson's Ranch) in Sioux County( western Nebraska ) with 7 windmills on a hill behind the yard. I'll bet there's a pic in the book! I drove by it twice a week while attending college. I believe it's the most photographed use of windmills in the country. I knew the ranch owner, who was also a customer at 2 of the businesses I worked at later in life. Good people, as are most Nebraskans!

 

[Wiebster]

I hope your project is coming along well. There's a member here who rebuilds windmill gearboxes and fans all the time -j p smith. He lives across town from me in the Phoenix area and is a wealth of knowledge and experience. He's repaired many crushed fans much worse than your's!
First name is Jeff; his shop is to die for!

It’s actually coming along a little slower than I hoped, mainly due to other projects taking priority. I am, however, interested in possibly meeting Mr. Smith. I just took my blades down to Florence, AZ to work on them during the winter. I would love to get some ideas and suggestions on the dismantling and straightening of these blades from a skilled craftsman. I feel that I need to do the actual work just for sentimental reasons but could sure use some more pointers (though I already got some great ideas from you all). Thank you for the post and suggestions. I will attempt to contact Jeff.

 

[rixtrix1]

It’s actually coming along a little slower than I hoped, mainly due to other projects taking priority. I am, however, interested in possibly meeting Mr. Smith. I just took my blades down to Florence, AZ to work on them during the winter. I would love to get some ideas and suggestions on the dismantling and straightening of these blades from a skilled craftsman. I feel that I need to do the actual work just for sentimental reasons but could sure use some more pointers (though I already got some great ideas from you all). Thank you for the post and suggestions. I will attempt to contact Jeff.

I spoke to Jeff about this yesterday when I stopped by his shop after picking up the ceiling insulation for my new shop. He said he'd be glad to speak to you about this.

 

[Wiebster]

Thank you rixtrix, I appreciate that!