window A/C in a slider type window?

[Shovelhead]

Trying to figure out windows for my shop.
All metal building.

On one wall I want the capability of using a window A/C unit.
The window size I'd like on that wall is 36" high x 48" wide.
I like the horizontal slider type windows once you get over 36" wide.

I've only used a window A/C in a vertical lift window.

Any special provisions or a bunch of rigging to accommodate a window unit in a horizontal slider of this size? 48" wide

Thanks

 

[whateg01]

Every window unit I've used relied on the upper sash to close off the opening. So as long as you can fill the opening with something that's fairly solid and/or built an external support for it, I don't think it would be too complicated.

 

[paredown]

We set ours up every year in a tall slider. I fab'd a plywood section to fit over top, with a side and top strip that fits into the window channel, and a grooved strip that catches the edge of the slider.

It's a three hander, but you need to start the plywood section in, then slide the A/C underneath. Then I use a C clamp and a wood block to clamp the window to keep it from being slid back.

I keep thinking I should paint it so it looks less 'Okie' but it hasn't happened yet...

 

[65ranchero]

I made a plywood fill piece (or maybe a Lexan panel) that fit in the open area and made it as tight fit as possible and used removable rope caulk to seal any small openings.
It may be possible to fashion a shelf to support the bottom of the A/C so it won't lean to far down on the exterior.

 

[Kaizen]

You did not state the size of the ac. If a big one I’d be concerned with that big of a window so build something that spreads the weight out past or above the window. Spend time and make it right so easy to install and uninstall yearly. Maybe even make it so ac frame is left on yearly and window can open and close with the frame there. Ac would protrude into room more but should function fine.


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[Shovelhead]

Thanks folks.
I figured it would take something out of plywood as explained.
Evidently no one sells a window unit specifically designed for a horizontal slide window.

I have options as the construction hasn’t started.
This will be for a framed out room inside the metal building.
Approximately 20 x 34.

I may be better off with a vertical lift window, or 2 smaller windows on each side of a framed out opening designated just for a window unit.
Or, keep the larger window and go with a mini split unit.
This room will have sawdust flying frequently and I’ve read the mini splits don’t like that.

And yes, then there’s big bad *** high dollar dust collection systems, and , and, ,, $$$.

With a 2x4x8 at over 8 bucks, this room may never get built.

 

[Red 17]

I just put one through the wall. East Texas? You might need it in any season from time to time? Through the wall, leave the windows as windows. No plywood seal up job to repaint every year.

Serving suggestion.

 

[Kaizen]

That size I’d go mini split. Build a frame around the head unit with home heating filters.


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[rsanter]

Cut a hole in the wall.

Or

Remove the window, install the AC unit and install a shorter window assembly on top of it.

Or

Remove the window and install two windows in the same space. One the original height and the other shorter to accommodate the AC unit

 

[SALIV8]

Install the ac sideways.

Lol

 

[Marctrees]

I just put one through the wall. East Texas? You might need it in any season from time to time? Through the wall, leave the windows as windows. No plywood seal up job to repaint every year.

Serving suggestion.

This.

Marc

 

[rieferman]

Honestly a mini split is more and more feasible from a budget perspective these days and they work great. And you can heat or cool too.

 

[drx2]

https://www.instructables.com/Mounting-a-Standard-Air-Conditioner-in-a-Sliding-W/

 

[Marctrees]

Knowing this "Room" size is helpful.

People need to stop thinking of "Window" AC as needing a window.

A dedicated opening in a wall acts as a "Window" and has other benefits including much more secure.

As long as the vents on the AC case are not blocked ... And all I have seen will work in a 2x4 wall, and probably a 6" Wall but need to confirm.

If his room is 10 x 10 he sure as hell does not need a minisplit.

Marc

 

[quickfarms]

If you want to put a window unit in a wall it is better to get one with a sliding chassis where the box is screwed into the studs and the ac slides into the box I have several of them and they work pretty good

 

[rieferman]

Knowing this "Room" size is helpful.

People need to stop thinking of "Window" AC as needing a window.

A dedicated opening in a wall acts as a "Window" and has other benefits including much more secure.

As long as the vents on the AC case are not blocked ... And all I have seen will work in a 2x4 wall, and probably a 6" Wall but need to confirm.

If his room is 10 x 10 he sure as hell does not need a minisplit.

Marc

LOL, yes, good point. I was assuming he has an open shop space that he's conditioning, in which case a mini-split could be a good option. But, you're completely right that would be overkill for a very small space.

Side note.. I was just separately reading on woodworking forum that a guy DIY installed a mini-split for his 400 square foot shop for under $1000. That's really an enticing $$ number.

 

[Bert_]

Knowing this "Room" size is helpful.

People need to stop thinking of "Window" AC as needing a window.

A dedicated opening in a wall acts as a "Window" and has other benefits including much more secure.

As long as the vents on the AC case are not blocked ... And all I have seen will work in a 2x4 wall, and probably a 6" Wall but need to confirm.

If his room is 10 x 10 he sure as hell does not need a minisplit.

Marc

I've lived with ones mounted in a wall. I would never do it. My house had one in the wall when I bought it. I took it out, filled the hole and now use it in the window.

They are impossible to flash correctly. I've seen several walls with wet sheetrock and rotten framing. In the winter they leak a ton of air. Last one I lived with I covered the outside and inside with plastic to get rid of the draft.

If you're building from new just install a double hung window. Now reason to try to build a work around when your options are wide open. If you want it to be permanent a mini split is a good answer. Not sure how small the are available though.

 

[Shovelhead]

I've lived with ones mounted in a wall. I would never do it. My house had one in the wall when I bought it. I took it out, filled the hole and now use it in the window.

They are impossible to flash correctly. I've seen several walls with wet sheetrock and rotten framing. In the winter they leak a ton of air. Last one I lived with I covered the outside and inside with plastic to get rid of the draft.

If you're building from new just install a double hung window. Now reason to try to build a work around when your options are wide open. If you want it to be permanent a mini split is a good answer. Not sure how small the are available though.

Thank you. Excellent advice I do believe, as I've read the same about the "hole in the wall" idea.

I have a good friend with 3 of em mounted in just a hole in the wall. Time will tell how he makes out.

And those questioning the size of the room, go back and read my post #6 and you'll have yer answer.

 

[jeboyd]

Window units for sliding windows are called casement type.

Like this

https://www.homedepot.com/b/Heating...ir-Conditioners/Casement/N-5yc1vZc4luZ1z180xd


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[Bert_]

Window units for sliding windows are called casement type.

Like this

https://www.homedepot.com/b/Heating...ir-Conditioners/Casement/N-5yc1vZc4luZ1z180xd

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They sure do make them. Downside is they are 1 1/2 X the price of a regular one. Used window ac's are pretty much all for double hung windows, if you want to go that route.

Since it's all new, my opinion is either install at least one double hung or do the mini split.

 

[Marctrees]

size matters.

If the secret size "Room" is like 80 ft sq, in a like 1200 ft sq building, a 5k btu window AC on an INTERIOR wall of the "Room" would contribute practically un measurable heat to the balance of the un conditioned building.

No security, no flashing worries.

Been there, done that... works great.

Just a condensate drain to do.

Marc

 

[Marctrees]

Now that I read closer I see the "Room" is 20 x 34.

Never mind......

I would go back to 2 through otside wall mounted window AC units along the 32' wall....One could certainly handle it, but two smaller ones would give better cooling distribution, and redundancy if one should fail.

Flashing can be done, even on any "R panel" style wall.

Marc

 

[Voi]

If the secret size "Room" is like 80 ft sq, in a like 1200 ft sq building, a 5k btu window AC on an INTERIOR wall of the "Room" would contribute practically un measurable heat to the balance of the un conditioned building.

No security, no flashing worries.

Interesting. I have a 250 square foot shop off the back of my three car.

Putting a window AC on an interior wall not only solves security and flashing issues but also puts me closer to a condensate drain.

Glad I clicked on this thread.

 

[Bert_]

Now that I read closer I see the "Room" is 20 x 34.

Never mind......

I would go back to 2 through otside wall mounted window AC units along the 32' wall....One could certainly handle it, but two smaller ones would give better cooling distribution, and redundancy if one should fail.

Flashing can be done, even on any "R panel" style wall.

Marc

I'm all ears if you can explain how to flash it. Any one I've ever seen installed in a wall relied mostly on caulk.

 

[dfiler2]

I picked up a portable unit a few years ago, shop is 26x38, it is very well insulated. These units ony require a 6" hole through the wall and can be placed on a shelf if floor space is an issue. I bought one similar to this except black and it keeps the space very comfortable.

AIR CONDITIONER

 

[Marctrees]

Bert - Why not the standard RO like for a flangeless window trimmed out w J channel?

Then silicone caulk seam after sleeve is installed.

Marc

 

[Bert_]

Bert - Why not the standard RO like for a flangeless window trimmed out w J channel?

Then silicone caulk seam after sleeve is installed.

Marc

I guess I wouldn't be willing to put in a flangeless window either. I pretty much hold the opinion that if you have to caulk it to make it watertight, you did it wrong.

Of course there are exeptions but for most penetrations, flashing > caulk

 

[oldgoat]

I had a slider in my garage and couldn't find a unit that would fit. So I it a hole in the wall and put a window unit in there. Has worked fine there and left the window functional and also as a emergency exit, since the doors are at other end.

 

[Marctrees]

Depending... often a piece of sheet metal can be installed as a shed roof over the unit.

Just not impeding air movement.

Marc