Window caulk - washed away

[JeepsAreBuilt]

So I replaced the brick molding on a door, as the old one had rotten. I replaced it with new and caulked it with the normal 35 year stuff from homedepot that runs under 3 bucks a tube. I caulked it one evening, and went back a few days later to find that it was all washed out, and I mean ALL of it. It was cold that day I applied it - about 40 I'm guessing. So, I guess it rained that night or the next day and washed it away. Now theres a big mess on the decking and some on the siding. I never experienced this, so do I need to buy that 3 hour or 1 hour stuff ? How long does the cheap stuff take to dry ? I havent cleaned the mess up yet, will it just wash away with a hose or require more ?

 

[darkk]

You probably used the paintable acrylic chaulking. That stuff is junk, it dries out and shrinks away from where ever it is applied. The real silicone stuff stays flexible....

 

[Zeke]

Acrylic caulk is not necessarily junk and silicone has its own set of problems. This was all addressed in a recent thread where polyurethane pretty much won out.

40 degrees was the problem, plain and simple. If it's still damp and cold, it will wash away. When cold like that, warm up some solvent based caulk and use that. Only needs to be 75 or 80 degrees to flow well. I set mine on the intake manifold of my truck on a real cold morning.

Along with my burrito.

I've used $100's of tubes of all kinds of caulk. I installed windows for 25 years.

 

[pauls340]

I rep a product called Seal Bond here in Michigan (we'll ship it anywhere), my first application of our self leveling was in 10 degree weather. We had to shovel 4" of snow off the sidewalk and TigerTorch it for 3 or 4 seconds to melt the frost. It's still there and that was two years ago. MS technology loves moisture in a joint. We actually will spray the top to speedup curing.

 

[Thruxton]

Acrylic caulk is not necessarily junk and silicone has its own set of problems. This was all addressed in a recent thread where polyurethane pretty much won out.

40 degrees was the problem, plain and simple. If it's still damp and cold, it will wash away. When cold like that, warm up some solvent based caulk and use that. Only needs to be 75 or 80 degrees to flow well. I set mine on the intake manifold of my truck on a real cold morning.

Along with my burrito.

I've used $100's of tubes of all kinds of caulk. I installed windows for 25 years.

I have used one tube of caulk about 40 years ago and I forget which kind but the Zekester is correct. 40 = too low, and because it was cold you just might not have prepped it (cleaned it) enough either! Don't be discouraged, just do it again!

 

[JeepsAreBuilt]

This is what I used: http://www.homedepot.com/DAP/h_d1/N...d=10053&langId=-1&keyword=caulk&storeId=10051

Should I just try using it again ? looks like its gonna be 60 degrees tomorrow. Any suggestions of what kind to use at homedepot ?

Thanks for the tips

 

[NUTTSGT]

I'ved that caulk with good results.

 

[Zeke]

I've use a 1000 tubes of that stuff. Mostly under paint and always in good weather. Did you read the label? It can't freeze and it can't stay out all night in the damp cold or it will never cure. It won't even start to cure. This has happened to me in SoCal where it never goes below 45, but it can be damp and foggy. No go.

I recommended poly that has been warmed. Is that not a good enough recommendation from a pro window guy? BTW, if the substrate is wet, nothing will work well. You just picked the wrong day.

 

[osu69]

No. Spend another dollar and buy DAP Dynaflex 230. Been using it for years with great results. Available in white and clear-both take latex paint well. I use the clear to seal exterior trim to brick.

 

[pattenp]

I prefer the DAP Alex Ultra 230. As said apply on dry surface, temps to stay above 40F, and no rain for at least 24hrs.

 

[JeepsAreBuilt]

Ok, I looked around at homedepot.com and only found 1 polyurethane caulk: http://www.homedepot.com/Loctite/h_...d=10053&langId=-1&keyword=caulk&storeId=10051

Zeke, Is this what you are recommending ? btw I appreciate your pro input.

Also, to be more clear.. I am caulking a wooden door molding - we call it a brick molding around here. The molding is painted and screwed on to the wall between the door frame and exterior siding which is also wood. It has been rained on and may be wet behind the molding if that is not helping my problem ?

 

[pattenp]

I do not recommend you use polyurethane caulk for your application. It is not water clean-up. For the DIY'er you should stick with the latex based caulks for wood to wood application, plus they are water clean-up.

 

[darkk]

Acrylic caulk is not necessarily junk.

I must just be lucky then. Every time I have used acrylic chaulk it cracks and pulls away from at least one side of the seal. I just tried it again to seal a wavering small gap 1/8" maximum. I have a bump out shelf on an 8' wall that I installed a wooden shelf on. There is a very small gap in several places that I chaulked and let cure for a couple weeks while doing other work. The wall is painted and the wooden shelf is painted and has cured for at least 2 months so nothing is fresh, both latex. The chaulking pulled away from the wall in less than 2 weeks and I haven't even touch up painted over the chaulk yet. Now I'm going to have to scrape it out and try something else. I need a paintable flexible product for minor gaps and acrylic chaulk never seems to work for me. I don't think it can be installed incorrectly and the wall and shelf are solid enough to put a car on. Ideas?

 

[OccupantRJ]

Go to a vinyl siding and window supply house and ask for some Duo-sil caulking. Also available online. It is a 50 year urethane acrylic sealant and adhesive, available in over 100 colors, and is also paintable. The tube has a removable screw on application tip. This stuff is what the pros use for vinyl siding and window installs. Link below.



http://www.siroflexinc.com/duo-sil.php

 

[jake26]

The caulk isle is my wife's favorite.

 

[FreddiFiche]

The caulk isle is my wife's favorite.

Coffee...choke....now in nose.....Damn you!

 

[Big Bad Dad]

Go to a vinyl siding and window supply house and ask for some Duo-sil caulking. Also available online. It is a 50 year urethane acrylic sealant and adhesive, available in over 100 colors, and is also paintable. The tube has a removable screw on application tip. This stuff is what the pros use for vinyl siding and window installs. Link below.



http://www.siroflexinc.com/duo-sil.php

BIG X 2! Best stuff on the market

 

[bluesman2a]

Not to jack the thread, but I read somewhere here recently that somebody was using a paint-matched caulk (maybe a hardi-product?).

Is there something out there where you can have caulk matched to your paint, or is it only with pre-painted products?

 

[fury9]

use OSI quad (it's paintable) and available at HD it will last as long as you. Do NOT finger **** it after you put it on, you will just make a big mess.I've used it in below freezing temps in the rain,etc... I've never had a call back.http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...d=osi quad&storeId=10051&superSkuId=202797265, HD has some colors but a siding/roofing/window supply house will have pretty much any color you need

 

[Zeke]

Ok, I looked around at homedepot.com and only found 1 polyurethane caulk: http://www.homedepot.com/Loctite/h_...d=10053&langId=-1&keyword=caulk&storeId=10051

Zeke, Is this what you are recommending ? btw I appreciate your pro input.

Also, to be more clear.. I am caulking a wooden door molding - we call it a brick molding around here. The molding is painted and screwed on to the wall between the door frame and exterior siding which is also wood. It has been rained on and may be wet behind the molding if that is not helping my problem ?

I have used cases and cases of that stuff. Lord help you if you have to take something out that has been sealed up with PL. It does yellow out pretty bad if left unpainted.

I do not recommend you use polyurethane caulk for your application. It is not water clean-up. For the DIY'er you should stick with the latex based caulks for wood to wood application, plus they are water clean-up.

So what? You aren't supposed to tool it with your fingers, they make things for that. And if you do tool it, you have to do so before it skins up which can be a very short time in hot weather. Paint thinner and hand cleaners work well for the messy caulker. I don't wear gloves, that just exacerbates the problem.

 

[Zeke]

I must just be lucky then. Every time I have used acrylic chaulk it cracks and pulls away from at least one side of the seal. I just tried it again to seal a wavering small gap 1/8" maximum. I have a bump out shelf on an 8' wall that I installed a wooden shelf on. There is a very small gap in several places that I chaulked and let cure for a couple weeks while doing other work. The wall is painted and the wooden shelf is painted and has cured for at least 2 months so nothing is fresh, both latex. The chaulking pulled away from the wall in less than 2 weeks and I haven't even touch up painted over the chaulk yet. Now I'm going to have to scrape it out and try something else. I need a paintable flexible product for minor gaps and acrylic chaulk never seems to work for me. I don't think it can be installed incorrectly and the wall and shelf are solid enough to put a car on. Ideas?

I guess you are the lucky one. I know if I don't get a good bead that it does shrink and pulls away. I think the idea is to cram the stuff well down in any crack or seam and tool it off for a nice smooth look. Now I'm talking DAP Alex, not the cheaper "painters" caulk. But if you move up a grade or 2 to the stuff pattenp recommends, you should get even better performance.

 

[fury9]

I must just be lucky then. Every time I have used acrylic chaulk it cracks and pulls away from at least one side of the seal. I just tried it again to seal a wavering small gap 1/8" maximum. I have a bump out shelf on an 8' wall that I installed a wooden shelf on. There is a very small gap in several places that I chaulked and let cure for a couple weeks while doing other work. The wall is painted and the wooden shelf is painted and has cured for at least 2 months so nothing is fresh, both latex. The chaulking pulled away from the wall in less than 2 weeks and I haven't even touch up painted over the chaulk yet. Now I'm going to have to scrape it out and try something else. I need a paintable flexible product for minor gaps and acrylic chaulk never seems to work for me. I don't think it can be installed incorrectly and the wall and shelf are solid enough to put a car on. Ideas?

In interior situations I use polyseamseal.

 

[Ric in Richmond]

The caulk isle is my wife's favorite.

She like the black, brown or white caulk better?

 

[bams50]

Not to jack the thread, but I read somewhere here recently that somebody was using a paint-matched caulk (maybe a hardi-product?).

Please do not jack the caulk thread; you might be thought a caulk jacker. Especially when you mention hardi-caulks.

To the OP- you used a caulk that hasn't been tested and approved by the caulk council. They test it by submersing several beads in water. The caulk soaker then records the results. It's important work.

Being a quality caulk soaker takes some learning and practice at the hand of elite trainers. These masters usually come from the painting trade; the best caulk soaking teachers are the master painters. You will want their seal of approval before you bring home any caulk for home use.

I hope you have learned something here. Main thing is, if you're unsure about a given brand, you'll probably want to soak the caulk yourself.

Me? I've got brand new aluminum windows. No caulks needed here.

 

[Zeke]

She like the black, brown or white caulk better?

Whatever is in hand?