Window Framing Question

[ED26]

Redoing a window opening and have a question.

Outside king stud to king stud dimension is 65.5”

Subtract the 2x4 king stud width on each side equals 62.5” remain

Window (vinyl with nail flange) calls for rough opening of 60” / actual window with 59.5”

What combination of trimmer studs do I need ..?

Long day today and drawing blank

Thanks

 

[The Cobbler]

you could use 5/4 (1") decking and be close enough to r/o size

 

[ED26]

5/4 boards locally are all pressure treated... would this be a problem at all ? I could use one 2x4 trimmer and 1 5/4 board trimmer to make up the 2.5 Ish*

 

[The Cobbler]

good point on the PT. it will be enclosed so (probably would be OK,
buit keep in mind that rough opening doesnt't have to be exact. 60 to 61 would be fine, I'm sure

 

[CTyankee]

Do you have a table saw? Rip 2 2x4's down to 1 1/4 - 1 1/8. Put them up before the 2 full size ones.

 

[Dustball]

I don't know if I'd use PT wood as you'd then need to use hardware that's coated to be compatible with PT.

Do you have a table saw? Rip a couple of 2x4s down to 1.25" thick.

 

[Kaizen]

I’d stick a 2x4 on one side and test fit it to see if it needs to be shimmed. If not put a piece of plywood in to make up the difference. It will all be covered to exact equal spacing isn’t needed in my hack opinion


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[ED26]

I do not have a table saw. The kings and header are existing. There was an old aluminum frame window in there from the 70s I imagine. Outside to outside king stud is 65.5” - window rough is 60”

 

[nmk_61802]

(1) 1x and other side 2x will get you within 1/4" of RO. Apply most of your shims to 1x side to re-center


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[jetnow1]

Cannot believe you cannot get 5/4 boards as outside trim, even home despot carries it here. Have you checked with a real lumber yard?

 

[DFB]

You can buy 5/4 sq edge pine stock. Any DECENT lumber yard should have it bare or even preprimed.

Just looking online even HD has it listed.

And is using 3/4" for a 1/4" more clearance all the way around really going to make or break this job

 

[spudley]

Find a friend/neighbor with a table saw or planer and make 5/4 shoulders. (Hopefully your opening is plumb). Not sure using 1X (3/4") to support a 5' header is kosher especially as we don't know whats above your window.
Does the new window have a nail flange?

 

[ED26]

New window has nail flange, yes. This is an exterior garage (built in the 60/70s). Trying to avoid pulling the header out and re-framing new header(s) etc-

Actual window size is 59.5; with the recommended RO manuf suggestion of 60", that gives me 1/4 inch on each side to level, install weather membrane, etc.

Being a vinyl window so many people say worry about expansion contraction, how realistic is this? If I installed two 2x4 trimmer studs, my opening would match window opening of 59.5"..not leaving any space for movement or weather membrane or shims etc..

No loft or storage above window opening,

 

[DFB]

New window has nail flange, yes. This is an exterior garage (built in the 60/70s). Trying to avoid pulling the header out and re-framing new header(s) etc-

Actual window size is 59.5; with the recommended RO manuf suggestion of 60", that gives me 1/4 inch on each side to level, install weather membrane, etc.

Being a vinyl window so many people say worry about expansion contraction, how realistic is this? If I installed two 2x4 trimmer studs, my opening would match window opening of 59.5"..not leaving any space for movement or weather membrane or shims etc..

No loft or storage above window opening,

I really think that be too tight and may pinch and more especially if the opening is not perfectly square for placement

 

[paredown]

I'd use 3/4" plywood rips--you can get a decent cut with a skilsaw and a straight edge. Make sure you shim your window so that it is level and plumb (lots of good vids on this). Then use the small gap (window and door) spray foam inside, and tape your flange correctly on the outside.

Windows don't have to be that close in fit to rough framing but they do need to be level and plumb, nailed up solid, plus well sealed and weather proofed on the outside.

 

[spudley]

New window has nail flange, yes. This is an exterior garage (built in the 60/70s). Trying to avoid pulling the header out and re-framing new header(s) etc-

Actual window size is 59.5; with the recommended RO manuf suggestion of 60", that gives me 1/4 inch on each side to level, install weather membrane, etc.

Being a vinyl window so many people say worry about expansion contraction, how realistic is this? If I installed two 2x4 trimmer studs, my opening would match window opening of 59.5"..not leaving any space for movement or weather membrane or shims etc..

No loft or storage above window opening,

If the header above the window carries little weight as it would on the gable side, the width of the trimmers/jack/shoulders studs isn't as critical as it would be if the header carries roof load.
If the window doesn't get a lot of sun, expansion/contraction will be limited.
1/4" per side will be OK as long as your opening is plumb.

 

[Toomanytools?]

Redoing a window opening and have a question.

Outside king stud to king stud dimension is 65.5”

Subtract the 2x4 king stud width on each side equals 62.5” remain

Window (vinyl with nail flange) calls for rough opening of 60” / actual window with 59.5”

What combination of trimmer studs do I need ..?

Long day today and drawing blank

Thanks

This is a trick question right? I'm not understanding your measurement "outside" king stud. You want the RO which is the inside measurement trimmer to trimmer. For a 5/0 window or 60" you want net 60" , the manufacturer downsides the window 1/2", 1/4" on either is plenty for expansion, they don't move that much. You can use plywood if you only have say 1/2" to make up but it's better to have solid wood to nail the flange into.

Same principle goes for the height.

 

[ED26]

I’m not sure if this is clear or not me explaining this.

The walls are framed 16” on center.

My inside rough opening is 59.5” based on one king stud and one jack stud on each side being 2x4s.

The Jeld wen window has nail flange that says RO is 60”/actual inside window is 59.5”. The actual inside of window 59.5 equals my RO 59.5, not leaving any room for expansion or weather proof sil Pan.

I’m curious how you obtain a 60” RO with 16 on centers.

The math outside of king studs is 65.5” minus 3” on each side (king/jack) equals 59.5”

 

[Homerr]

I’m curious how you obtain a 60” RO with 16 on centers.

1. Order the right size window, or
2. Make the RO wider.

The real answer is you are trying to mix apples and oranges. Window sizes don't really relate to stud spacing.

 

[ED26]

1. Order the right size window, or
2. Make the RO wider.

The real answer is you are trying to mix apples and oranges. Window sizes don't really relate to stud spacing.

Got it. Just curious how finish carpenters do the 60" RO with new construction, I guess they just plan it out a head of time!

 

[nmk_61802]

Got it. Just curious how finish carpenters do the 60" RO with new construction, I guess they just plan it out a head of time!

Finish Carpenters hope the Framing Crew did it correct.

But seriously as said before. When you do window, 16" OC doesn't mean much. You space as needed bringing the load down with a header. Then you try and get back to 16" OC as soon as possible. Hard to explain, but relatively easy to do.

That would be 16" OC overall. So this would all happen in an 80" OC space.

 

[ED26]

Finish Carpenters hope the Framing Crew did it correct.

But seriously as said before. When you do window, 16" OC doesn't mean much. You space as needed bringing the load down with a header. Then you try and get back to 16" OC as soon as possible. Hard to explain, but relatively easy to do.

That would be 16" OC overall. So this would all happen in an 80" OC space.

Makes sense to me now. Thanks for clarifying