Window Glass Replacement

[Elwood4u]

Hey all,

I don't post much but I've greatly appreciated all the cool ideas and build threads I've come across here. I also came across an issue trying to replace a double pane glass section in two of our windows that I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction of the easiest way to get at the glass.

It looks like our windows are designed to come out the outside portion but I don't want to do damage first and then ask what is best... no quarter round stops, doesn't look like glaze to me either.

I've attached a few pictures of the interior side and 1 of the exterior. Has anyone tackled this before?

Much appreciated.

 

[yeldogt]

Are they Marvin sliders?.. if so you can push up and the whole sash comes inside from the bottom ...easier to play with.

Mine are single pane w/ energy panels and the single glass does indeed come out from the outside. My memory is they are reversed with the insulated glass and the sticking holds the panel from the inside.

What's the problem? If they are Marvin give them a call and ask what they want for the whole replacement -- I'm assuming over 20 years old? Both Andersen and Marvin have been very fair with me regarding replacing outside of warranty.

 

[Stuart in MN]

Are they Marvin sliders?.. if so you can push up and the whole sash comes inside from the bottom

I think he's talking about replacing just the glass, not the whole sash.


You'll have to clean the paint off on the exterior but it looks like the trim stops come off on that side. Since they're mitered at the corners it can be tricky to do, you have to pry up the longest piece in its middle, it will bend but you don't want to bend it so far that it breaks. Once you have that out the rest come easier.

 

[yeldogt]

I think he's talking about replacing just the glass, not the whole sash.


You'll have to clean the paint off on the exterior but it looks like the trim stops come off on that side. Since they're mitered at the corners it can be tricky to do, you have to pry up the longest piece in its middle, it will bend but you don't want to bend it so far that it breaks. Once you have that out the rest come easier.

Yes -- I know he wants to replace only the glass. It's easier working on the sash out of the frame.

If they are Marvin -- they will help him.

 

[Mooky]

Just replaced a number of fogged units. From the inside, the innermost trim piece holds glass unit in the sash. With a wood chisel, pry it out of the channel. On vinyl frames and hey snap into a channel. All four pieces pop out relatively easily.

Glass unit is held in with thin double faced foam tape typically (might pull out easily if the tape's adhesive gave up). A long flexible knife, or hacksaw blade sharpened will cut it easily from the outside of the house.

Unit should pull out easily. Watch for thin rubber blocks along the bottom, save them.

A local window supplier can order replacement units for you. Easiest to take it there and let them measure, determine the internal grills and pane thickness.

Figure $100 - $200 based on the size. Get a roll of the glazier's tape to reinstall. Apply to the outside glass edge where it fits in the sash opening.

Search YouTube for diy videos.

 

[Zeke]

First of all, DP glazing has a bad history when used in wood sash. It's gotten better as the manufacturers isolate the glass from the wood with boots or gaskets. Remember that when you go to replace.

It looks to me that the stop on the painted side will come off. If not you will have to break the glass out and use a router to remove the piece that rests on the edge of the glass and replace with new.

I have looked at a job where the insulated glass units (IGU) was installed as the sash was assembled and the IGU captured. It was foggy because of what I said ^^^^.

I passed on the job.

5000 windows sold and installed and now I need a new shoulder.

 

[dfiler2]

The glass in those windows come off to the inside, start by taking a sharp knife blade and cutting between the trim and the sash and the glass and the trim. You're basically cutting where the paint or finnish is stuck. I like to use a tool like this to carefully pry off the trim.

 

[SALIV8]

The manufacturer will give a warranty, most likely, for the glass replacememt.

I would start there and see what they will charge. But if outta line, typically the frame pieces come out side by side and then the shims will be there.

Grab some glazing caulk, a sharp cut knife, a hammer and a wedge.

 

[Elwood4u]

Thanks guys!

I didn't see any identifiable markings which would lead me to a manufacturer. These are solid wood sliders that I'm not sure if they are original but they were in when we bought.

As for the reason why: 1 someone shot a BB through the outside panel and the other slide had the seal let loose (foggy). Neither of which yield much energy loss but the wife wants them fixed so fixed it is..

I called around to several custom glass shops in the area and found one that offered to replace glass with double pane clear (25x42) for $200 per if I bring them the window. They also offered to show me best practice for these particular windows so I can do the others when other seals eventually break. Pretty cool I thought.

I did find one sill is starting to feel a little soft so will need to be addressed at some point but didn't feel like tackling before winter.

Much appreciated!

 

[yeldogt]

Thanks guys!

I didn't see any identifiable markings which would lead me to a manufacturer. These are solid wood sliders that I'm not sure if they are original but they were in when we bought.

As for the reason why: 1 someone shot a BB through the outside panel and the other slide had the seal let loose (foggy). Neither of which yield much energy loss but the wife wants them fixed so fixed it is..

I called around to several custom glass shops in the area and found one that offered to replace glass with double pane clear (25x42) for $200 per if I bring them the window. They also offered to show me best practice for these particular windows so I can do the others when other seals eventually break. Pretty cool I thought.

I did find one sill is starting to feel a little soft so will need to be addressed at some point but didn't feel like tackling before winter.

Much appreciated!

As I said -- they look like Marvin. Take a picture of the lock. Will not be any identifier marks visible -- if you tale out the sash you will often see pencil model numbers on the sash -- job numbers etc..

Marvin had a huge problem with frame rot on windows new in the 90's. Marvin was using a new preservative along with finger jointed frames -- the window sash are not finger jointed. Marvin paid to have a bunch of my window frames replaced ... it did not occur will all of them.

Marvin is a first rate company. I would call them and ask what they can do for you. If the sill is rotting and the side of the frames are fine .. they can send you a new sill as well.

 

[Robert Haas]

The inside stained stop is the removable stop.


You can do a heck of a lot more then $200.00 damage if you tear up this sash.

Sometimes being cheap is damn expensive.


Marvin builds windows. They do not install them, nor repair them. Their dealers do.


Glass shop owner for the last 4 decades.

 

[kbs2244]

Whenever I have this kind of problem it is remove and take to the local glass shop time.
I can take it out and put it back, but they have the parts, shop, and expertise.
And they know of any recalls.
Since they are regular a customer/dealer they get more attention from the mfg

I have actually heard the lady in my local shop talking with the customer service rep at a mfg about their daughters soccer successes!

You do not get that kind of relationship as a one time complainer.

 

[lakelandcat]

Most double pane windows have argon gas in between to keep them from fogging and insulate for thermal efficiency. Some times its easier to just bite the bullet and buy a new window.