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Window stop for site built windows?

paredown

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 12, 2012
Messages
544
Location
Pomona, NY
We are trying to address air leakage in our 60's modern, and we have single pane windows that were site installed, but with settling etc, are no longer sitting deep enough in slots that were created to hold the glass. So air leakage, and actual movement/rattling of the glass in big storms. The bottoms have stop--and those I will add judicious caulking to, but the new additions would be on the sides and peak (2 are pentagram shape up to the peak) and sides and top (four triangles on the sides).

I have been thinking about adding some external window stop, beveled to reduce it's visibility (to maintain the look of the glass just slicing in to the ceiling plane), pressed against the glass and screwed in place. (This is an alternative to the energy sealing company slopping silicone over every thing, and is easily reversible if time, energy and money ever allow really dealing with the windows.)

My question is--I can get peel and stick (fairly thin) encased foam strip, or a kerf cut installed 'rubber bulb' style sealing strip--which I have never used, but looks like it may work well as an air seal.

Kerf cut here:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079CY4ZKN/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Neopreme here:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087R1WZNY/?tag=atomicindus08-20

It's been 30 years since I helped with site built windows and I can't even remember how we set them...

Anyone have suggestions or opinions as to which might give me the better job?
 

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johnnyradiant

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Joined
Mar 27, 2017
Messages
833
Location
Vancouver, BC
The tendency with the peel and stick from what I have seen is for it to be applied in such a way as it a) looks ugly, b) really doesn't seal things up as desired, and c) usually starts pealing up somewhere way too soon and then spreads like a virus.

The Kerf method generally looks much better as a finished product but usually doesn't work as an afterthought without a lot of work.

BTW window putty/glazing putty comes in caulking tubes and it's formula is very easy to work with compared to what I remember the putty I worked with 30 years ago.
 
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Bert_

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 24, 2016
Messages
9,701
Location
NW Iowa
A picture of the windows in question would help. Both up close and from a distance.

It sounds like these are large windows that don't really have a sash. I don't really have any experience with that type of window construction but maybe con help.
 

jm71lt1

Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2010
Messages
12
I assume they are all fixed windows. They should be sitting in a rabbet with stops on the outside. If the glass is rattling and air is coming through there is no caukling in them or the putty glaze has dried up and hardened. I would remove the stops and glass , caulk the rabbet and put the glass back in raising it up if necessary. Put stops back in wth caulking and you will have a weathertight window. 35 years making wooden window and doors of all shapes and styles.
 
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