Most here know that I sold and installed mainly replacement windows for 25 years ending circa 2011. I still dabble. Look at the total square footage of those 5 windows and then consider the sq ftage of your exterior walls. The 2 x 6 walls overwhelm the energy envelope.
Energy is transferred in 3 ways, radiation, conduction and convection. Your walls are pretty much limited to conduction.
LowE Squared will do a lot for radiation and cut UV rays down to near nothing. Not too much heat gain or loss until the windows gain size.
Conduction through hollow vinyl frames is not bad at all. Aluminum needs a thermal break in the form of a plastic separating strip. Wood frames are rated the highest. Glass conducts, too, but the dual pane helps a lot. Argon is good but tends to dissipate over time. It's cheap, get it anyway.
That leaves convection. mtmgtz seems to think that windows are vulnerable in this respect. Well, a casement and awning window close up like a refrigerator door with weatherstripping all the way around in compression. That's as good as a fixed window and maybe better due to larger frame mass. Sliders, either horizontal or vertical, have a different weatherstripping challenge but all windows are tested for air and water intrusion. I don't agree with the expansion and contraction faults. If you remove the sash you will see how much 'slop' there is to allow for movement with large overlaps. If anything, the rollers on a horizontal window are the weak point and they rate well.
One more point to make: any slider can open only to 50% (it's actually less) for ventilation. A casement or awning will open up the entire inside frame dimension. Great performance for the smaller sizes but you do pay more for that style. They all have very good locks but auxiliary locks are recommended where windows can be accessed from the outside. Tempered glass is good but laminated is much better. A laminated pane can take a golf ball driven into it and you will still have a barrier. Very messy to try and chop your way through laminated. It's even a better glass for thermal performance.
So, I say buy the window you like the best and put a high performance insulated glass unit (IGU) in it according to my recommendations. At the highest retail prices you will be paying an additional average of $12 per sq ft for the upgrades over what you should get as an average performance window, or 100 bucks. In your case that might actually double the cost for a real simple window. In the case of a nice awning I'd predict a 400 dollar cost per complete window with the upgrades of laminated glass and LowE Squared and SS hardware.
Too much more than that and I'd be shopping. I priced an awning in 4 different sets of specifications and it was 240 for the most basic (NO options) to 415 with SS hardware and all the whistles and bells (as in I checked every box). Take out the SS hardware and you have about 350. Take out the laminated and you have about 260.
Note: all the above doesn't compute perfectly, it's just intended for an overview.
