Ok, I just want to get some clarification before I start work. When running a breaker box to a detached garage from a breaker on the meter base, not from the house panel, is this still considered a sub panel or is it wired like it's own panel. Because everything I try to search on the web when I look has how to run it from the actual meter itself, not a breaker under it separate from the house panel. I just bought a 100 amp main breaker box to install in the workshop/ garage. I guess it's redundant to have breaker from meter then one to box not 30 ft away but i read that in a separate building it needs a main breaker type panel. Why I ask is, if it's a sub panel I'll have to purchase extra bars to attach to the new panel and then not bond the box correct? But if not, I can just wire it like a regular box and bond it together with the green screw right? I don't really know how to ask the question without sounding dumb lol. I know I'll need to drive grounding rods for it.
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Wire detached garage panel
- Thread starter Mayj
- Start date
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
All of your answers can be found here but I will summarize:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=356460
All panels past the first means of disconnect or main service panel, are considered subpanels and the neutral bus needs to be isolated and requires a 4-wire feeder.
So can you wire directly off the meter and not a breaker? If so, then it would be 3-wire.
However, its not advisable to have unfused wire on a property.
Also, the subpanel in the detached garage does not require a main if you have 6 or less breaker handles. Howver a main breaker is nice to have.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=356460
All panels past the first means of disconnect or main service panel, are considered subpanels and the neutral bus needs to be isolated and requires a 4-wire feeder.
So can you wire directly off the meter and not a breaker? If so, then it would be 3-wire.
However, its not advisable to have unfused wire on a property.
Also, the subpanel in the detached garage does not require a main if you have 6 or less breaker handles. Howver a main breaker is nice to have.
Last edited:
Terry D
Well-known member
If this is a meter base with a main breaker in it, and a small usually around a 8 circuit panel all in the same enclosure attached on your house, basically if the breakers are after the meter, then that panel in side your house is a sub panel. Your water pipe ground and the ground rod ground conductors would all come together in that outside meter enclosure, that is the main panel. And any other panels coming out of that meter enclosure would be sub panels. So it would require a 4-wire feeder and all equipment grounds and neutrals isolated from each other. make sure you have a separate ground bar and that no grounds are on the neutral buss, and do not install the green bonding screw And any separate building requires its own main breaker and ground rod.
Yes, that is what I was trying to say. The outside meter has 4 spots for breakers right below the main disconnect then it runs to the house panel. So my inside house panel is technically a sub panel and the one I run from the outside to the building is also a sub. Ok that clarifies a bunch. So wire this like a sub panel with a 4 wire run. Keep grounds and neutrals separate (was already doing that) and don't connect the bonding screw. Along with a grounding rod. The main question I was trying to get across was do I screw in that dang green screw or not. I was getting confused since I wasn't running from inside panel, apparently it's a sub too lol. Thanks a ton
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
You need 2 ground rods...
You need 2 ground rods...
Ok thanks. Also it's #4 copper or #2 aluminum correct?
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
Ok thanks. Also it's #4 copper or #2 aluminum correct?
For the connection to the rods?
Max size is solid #6 cu which doesnt require conduit.
For the connection to the rods?
Max size is solid #6 cu which doesnt require conduit.[/QUOTE
Sorry, should have clarified. My actual wires to the panel itself from the meter.
bad_idea
Well-known member
I just ran a sub panel to my garage this past week. I used 2-2-2-4 mobile home feed (aluminum conductors) with a 90 amp breaker in the main panel. I ran it in conduit, but it is rated for direct burial.
I just ran a sub panel to my garage this past week. I used 2-2-2-4 mobile home feed (aluminum conductors) with a 90 amp breaker in the main panel. I ran it in conduit, but it is rated for direct burial.
Thanks, that's probably the cheaper route as well.
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
Sorry, should have clarified. My actual wires to the panel itself from the meter.
well that depends on the feeding breaker size.
If you go with 100a, then you will need #3 cu or #1 AL, not factoring voltage drop.
If you go with 90a, then you can step the #1 AL down to #2..
Terry D
Well-known member
Yes, that is what I was trying to say. The outside meter has 4 spots for breakers right below the main disconnect then it runs to the house panel. So my inside house panel is technically a sub panel and the one I run from the outside to the building is also a sub. Ok that clarifies a bunch. So wire this like a sub panel with a 4 wire run. Keep grounds and neutrals separate (was already doing that) and don't connect the bonding screw. Along with a grounding rod. The main question I was trying to get across was do I screw in that dang green screw or not. I was getting confused since I wasn't running from inside panel, apparently it's a sub too lol. Thanks a ton
Do not install the green bonding screw in any sub panel. What this does is parallels the neutral and equipment ground together, which puts current on the ground. The NEC states, the only time the equipment ground should have current on it, is in a ground fault condition. Sad thing about it, everything will still work with the bonding screw installed. It is just the correct way