Wire edging for fenders?

[myredracer]

Wondering what to use for doing wire edging on fenders. I was thinking of using some 1/8" welding rod as being copper plated would be a good thing except that standard lengths are only 36" and I need about 32". Don't think I want a splice part way in the edge as it could make folding the edge over the wire harder and could show.

What is usually used for this? Would plain 1/8" steel rod be okay? I'd assume I should epoxy the inside lip and rod first?

The fenders I'm working with are only 22 ga. and the edge should fold over easily but I think could be easier to damage in the process? I'm planning to do it by hand. Don't want to buy any special tools as this is a one time project. Is all I need besides a bunch of vise grips and hammer, a dolly with a thin leading edge that I'd make up from a piece of flat bar? I'm installing the new front fenders on the car. Can I do the edging after they are installed or would it be better to to them on the bench?

Thx

 

[txvwnut]

Uhmm... 36 inches is longer than 32 so you would actually be shortening the welding rod not adding to it.

 

[K13]

I have heard a lot of guys use 1/8" fence wire as it is less likely to corrode given the galvanizing. What type of vehicle are you working on that has wire edged fenders that are only 22 ga?

 

[Kaizen]

How are you going to attach? Galvi or copper don't play well with mig


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[K13]

How are you going to attach? Galvi or copper don't play well with mig


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If done correctly wire edging should involve no welding.

 

[larry4406]

Robert where are you? MP&C has done wire edging of fenders.

 

[MP&C]

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3092582&postcount=194


I believe the 1918 International in the above link we used 1/8" steel wire, for any splicing done it was welded using OA. ....

 

[Kaizen]

If done correctly wire edging should involve no welding.

Maybe I'm picturing something different. How do you attach wire to the fender without brazeing or welding?


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[kwschumm]

Maybe I'm picturing something different. How do you attach wire to the fender without brazeing or welding?


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Probably a crimp. Place the wire maybe 3/8" from the edge and then fold the sheet metal over to hold it in place. My brother is restoring a 60s car that had that technique used at the factory

 

[Kaizen]

Probably a crimp. Place the wire maybe 3/8" from the edge and then fold the sheet metal over to hold it in place. My brother is restoring a 60s car that had that technique used at the factory

ahh thanks. I thought of that but then thought that's one heck of a rust pocket and no one in their right mind would do that.

 

[kwschumm]

ahh thanks. I thought of that but then thought that's one heck of a rust pocket and no one in their right mind would do that.

Nobody ever accused Lamborghini of being in their right mind.

 

[MP&C]

 

[larry4406]

Very cool Robert!

Where did that text come from?

 

[readhead]

I had to do a wired edge in school when I was a sheet metal apprentice in 1973. Haven't done one since. I used all those tools. Unfortunately most of those processes are lost now. If the new bunch of "tinners" can't buy it at the supply house and zip screw it together they are lost. You guys make me and my trade proud. Keep up the good work.

 

[MP&C]

Very cool Robert!

Where did that text come from?

Terry Thorne had posted it on Metalshapers FB page

 

[prostreetamx]

I added flares around the fenders on my custom Javelin. I used a combo of 1/2" and 3/4" square tubing bent with my conduit benders to shape them. I added sheet metal over that framing. I have purchased some 1/8' rod to experiment with for a new custom spoiler.

 

[myredracer]

Uhmm... 36 inches is longer than 32 so you would actually be shortening the welding rod not adding to it.

Shoot, it should have been 42". I guess I could weld the ends of 2 rods together.

 

[myredracer]

A wire edge looks like the diagram below. I calculated the outer diameter of the 1/8" wire plus a 3/4 wrap/layer of my .03" sheet metal (22 ga.) around it as in the diagram and the outer circumference works out to be close to 1/2"! Means I need to be very careful not to trim away too much of the fender.

First photo is what it should look like. Second photo is the Eastwood how not to do it way. What I don't like is that the concealed rod is a moisture trap but this is on a vintage car that will hopefully never see rain ever again and will always be stored indoors.

MP&C, thanks for the link and the old info.on doing it by hand.

 

[lilredex]

Anyone interested in the info in post #12 can find it in "Sheet Metal Hand Processes"

https://www.abebooks.com/servlet/Se...pnav-_-Results&kn=Zinngrabe,+Claude+J.,&sts=t


Check out the "Sheet Metal Machine Processes" book also listed there, by the same authors.

Both were text books when I was in school in the sixties, and are very interesting reading.

 

[MP&C]

Just to add a sample of wire edging we recently did in the shop to this thread, here is a hood side that, along with the hood, did not fit after a replacement cab was installed. A newly fabricated hood will correct the issues. Note the wire edge at the bottom protrudes outward from the panel surface, which will require an offset.

So we made a set of dies to add the joggle needed for the external wiring, using 3/16 solid rod for the wiring.. I would add that those sourcing wire for such a task should look to round rod, most machine shops or metal suppliers will have 20' pieces, so you can tackle most any wiring job without the need for welding shorter lengths together. Most will also cut off what you need for easier transport.

Practice sample:

With that complete, we tipped the lower edge to run through the joggle die..

The wiring and inside of the joggle were both degreased, scuffed, and SPI epoxy added prior to folding the remainder..

Vise grips modified so they wouldn't slip off the wiring..

Wiring locked in place with some hammer action...

Video version shows the hammering used to lock the wire in place:

Hood side is tacked to the hinge, mocked to the hood, and trimmed for gaps