Wire load question

[Ryan Wilke]

Ok, Electrical Guru Dudes, here's the deal:

Since I'm in mid-Michigan, it can get dang cold outside in the Winter. Since I don't want to put a sloppy, salty vehicle in my nice garage, I park my truck outside, backed up to the edge of the 20' concrete approach. So that puts it about 40' from the nearest electrical plug outlet (just inside the garage door).

Last year I installed a lower radiator hose heater (120 Volts, 600 Watts) in my truck and it worked fine. I simply plugged it into a 50' 14/3 extension cord for the 4-8 times I used it without a problem. Two weeks ago when the colder weather returned here, I plugged it in and left it on overnight (I usually didn't leave it plugged in overnight, as 2hrs usually is enough - but I did). Well the dang heater shorted out and tripped my 20amp breaker! A friend of mine told that the reason the heater shorted out was because the 50' 14/3 extension cord I used was "too light of a cord".

1) Do you fellas agree with my friend's assessment that the 14/3 50' cord was the cause of the unit shorting out - If not, what would you say caused it's failure?

2) If I use a 50' 12/3 cord, will it be easier on my heater unit allowing it to live longer? Maybe a 10/3 cord?

Please tell me what I need to do.............

Thanks in Advance, Gents!!
Ryan W

 

[kbs2244]

First; When it comes to wire, bigger is always better. A heavy duty cord sure can't help.

Now, that said, I doubt that you heater would short out internally from a small gauge cord. Is it placed so that it will always be wet? Even with hot water going awayfrom it in both directions? If it boils away the water right around it and is running dry, it can overheat and burn itself up.

Running it for 2 hours may not give it enough time to boil the hose dry, while overnight might. Put it on a timer.

 

[ScottS]

That should be about 5 amps. Cord is enough. Is your heater regulated or does it run all out? It is probably toast now. (I know you needed to hear that) Timer option is a great idea. By the way what kind of heater did you get? I have been pondering the same thing.

Scott

 

[rodnok1]

Napa sells the in-line rad hose heaters, just need to know hose size. They run $30-40. I have one this winter and what a difference, if I remmber to leave the heater on hot and on defroster it melts most of the ice off the windshield all by itself.

 

[Stuart in MN]

The size of the extension cord was fine. Those heaters do just go bad sometimes.

As an example, I have a little heater with magnets on it, so you can just stick it on the side of the engine block. I was going to use it the other night when it got down to -18, but when I plugged it in it made a big big ZAP noise and the circuit breaker blew...the thing worked fine the last time I used it, but for whatever reason it decided it was time to die.

 

[Ryan Wilke]

Thanks for the replies, Guys!!

kbs2244,
Because it is mounted in my lower radiator hose and I keep the coolant system filled, I'm thinking that it shouldn't have gone dry. The hose has a gradual rise toward the engine so I can't see where it would have produced an 'air pocket' in the hose. I have considered a timer, but I haven't gotten one - yet. I believe it to be a good idea and I'll likely search for one...

ScottS,
The heater (that is now cooked) was a KAT unit #14600, for a 1.5" hose, manufactured by FiveStar Manufacturing. I have another KAT unit installed in another truck of mine that has served me well for many years. Here it is:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Kats...OSE-14600_W0QQitemZ300069201898QQcmdZViewItem

Take the time to read through the precautions provided on the Instruction page in the EBay ad.... It will tell you that you shouldn't mount it in a flexible (ribbed) hose, instead, only mount it in a molded hose. Ensure that the hose slopes toward the engine and that there aren't any air pockets in it. It says that it is thermostatically controlled, but it doesn't say at what temp it cuts out. If you don't know the diameter of your lower radiator hose, ask your parts counter person to retrieve a hose and simply measure it's diameter.

Yesterday, I was looking at another brand at my local Auto Value parts store, made by ZEROSTART. It's the same basic thing. The ZEROSTART instructions say the unit is thermostatically controlled to shutdown at 245*F. It is price-marked $24.95. See it here, page 83:
http://www.zerostart.com/Files/ca_zerostart_04cat.pdf

Rodnok1,
I agree with you, they are great as they keep my engine, radiator motor oil somewhat warm (of course it depends on the temp outside - as it doesn't clear my windshield when it's -10*F outside). Of course, the coolant heater doesn't warm my battery, but with a warm-ish engine, the battery doesn't strain to turn it all over nearly as hard as when it's not warm! My rule-of-thumb is to only plug it in if the outside temps are expected to drop into the teens.... I know, they do have battery heaters as well (like a little electric blanket that wraps around it), but because: my engine isn't a large displacement/high compression engine, I don't like the thought of steaming out my battery electrolyte, I don't want to have two cords to unplug,,,, I figure as long as the battery is "in decent condition", it will do the job just fine.

Stuart,
Thanks for the sharing your experience & confirming that my cord was enough for the 600Watt draw.

I guess I'll pick up the ZEROSTART unit and switch it out with the cooked KAT unit. I may keep my eye out for a good 12/3 cord, just because..... I'll also see what Wal-Mart has for a timer when I head into town this weekend.. anyone have any timer suggestions?

Thanks again for everyone's help and advise!
Ryan W