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Wire Repair Tools/Techniques

bcradio

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What is the best way to repair chewed/damaged wires in a vehicle? What tools are needed?

These wires have the insulation ripped off and some strands are severed (but not all). A few wires have been completely severed which is an easy fix by just crimping and heat shrinking them.

My question is what are the best tools and techniques for fixing the wires that are NOT completely severed Do I just cut them and reconnect with a crimp connector and small piece of wire? Or can I repair as is? Also, how do I insure weather tightness without being able to slide heat shrink on there?
 
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Kracin

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to ge heatshrink on it, with no connector in sight means you'll have to cut it, slide your heak shrink and reattach either with crimp connectors or by soldering.

i've done plenty of good solder joints, but i've heard some people who do engine harnesses for a living swear by not soldering. couldn't tell you the best way for what your application is, except that either one will work if done right. but you'll need to cut the wire to get the shrink tube on it, on some i will put two shrink tubes, and shrink the first one down which will be a little but shorter than the second one, so when i slide the second one over and shrink it towel, it makes an even better seal.
 
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bcradio

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to ge heatshrink on it, with no connector in sight means you'll have to cut it, slide your heak shrink and reattach either with crimp connectors or by soldering.

i've done plenty of good solder joints, but i've heard some people who do engine harnesses for a living swear by not soldering. couldn't tell you the best way for what your application is, except that either one will work if done right. but you'll need to cut the wire to get the shrink tube on it, on some i will put two shrink tubes, and shrink the first one down which will be a little but shorter than the second one, so when i slide the second one over and shrink it towel, it makes an even better seal.

Is heat shrink the only way to weather seal a repair like that or do they have other options where you don't have to cut the wire?
 

Ruger_556

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I've done a few harnesses, usually cut out the damaged wire and replace the section with new wire rather than just connecting it back together. Then you know for sure that you've gotten any corrosion that may have creeped up the wire. I like the non insulated crimp connectors myself, then just slide a piece of marine grade heat shrink over and seal it up.





The signal wires I wound together and shielded again but I didn't take a picture of that.

 

skruft

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I think it is impossible to ensure watertightness without being able to put on heat shrink or use the special terminals that are made for wet places.

Possibilities: There is heat shrinkable tape but I have not used it. 3M makes a liquid product and there is another called Liquid Electric Tape. There is self-sealing tape.
 

turbodave

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I've used liquid electric tape in situations were the wire itself was ok and only the insulation was damaged.
 

pi_guy

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There is shrink wrap tape on a roll just like electrical tape.
There are heat meltable solder in a shrink type sleeve, also come in sizes to attach wires to pins in connectors.
Mechanical connections <crimp> are often better than soldering, soldering makes connections brittle and if vibrations are present the connection will often fail.
 
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theoldwizard1

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I've done a few harnesses, usually cut out the damaged wire and replace the section with new wire rather than just connecting it back together. Then you know for sure that you've gotten any corrosion that may have creeped up the wire. I like the non insulated crimp connectors myself, then just slide a piece of marine grade heat shrink over and seal it up.


Nice work !

I concur on the non-insulated **** splices and terminals (I prefer TE/Amp Solistrand) and marine heat shrink. Neater/less bulky than insulated **** splices. If you have several wires in a bundle that need to be repairs, if possible, cut different length of repair wire so that the joints don't line up on top of each other.

For low voltage wiring, not subject to a lot of tension, but splices are not required, although many disagree with me.

Automotive/low voltage Splicing and Tapping

Harness tape (PVC electrical tape without glue/sticky back) is available. Check eBay for Google "harness tape". Finish the ends off with old fashion cloth, friction tape or a high quality electrical tape (3M 33 or 88)
 
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bcradio

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Nice work !

I concur on the non-insulated **** splices and terminals (I prefer TE/Amp Solistrand) and marine heat shrink. Neater/less bulky than insulated **** splices. If you have several wires in a bundle that need to be repairs, if possible, cut different length of repair wire so that the joints don't line up on top of each other.

For low voltage wiring, not subject to a lot of tension, but splices are not required, although many disagree with me.

Automotive/low voltage Splicing and Tapping

Thanks for the link and tip on staggering the ****-joints.
 

ilovevocs

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I prefer shrink and soldier connectors or if it's less critic or and budget is right non insulated connectors with adhesive lined heat shrink over each individual connector then loom.

When if comes to wire connectors you get what you pay for. It you doing allot of work invest in a good set of ratcheting crimpers.
 

theoldwizard1

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No idea if you have different name for it across there or not, but self amalgamating tape will make a waterproof cover if applied properly.

Over here it is usually called "self-fusing" or "self-vulcanizing". It is also called "F4", "rescue", and "fix-it" tape.

Pricey !
 

shampoop

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Like has been said, bare **** splices + adhesive lined heat shrink is the only way to go. Cheap, strong, easy, reliable, and other than soldering + adhesive lined heat shrink, it's also the most compact solution.
 

Ruger_556

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Nice work !

I concur on the non-insulated **** splices and terminals (I prefer TE/Amp Solistrand) and marine heat shrink. Neater/less bulky than insulated **** splices. If you have several wires in a bundle that need to be repairs, if possible, cut different length of repair wire so that the joints don't line up on top of each other.

For low voltage wiring, not subject to a lot of tension, but splices are not required, although many disagree with me.

Automotive/low voltage Splicing and Tapping

I usually stagger them in a harness (Can't recall why I didn't on that one, I know I had a reason) :headscrat The last couple warranty/update wire harness kits I did called for 1 1/2"-2" staggering on the splices. Does make the bundle a lot more compact.
 

1949 caddyman

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Arizona
They make a heat shrink **** connector with glue inside of it. http://www.delcity.net/store/Heat-S...=38094426869&gclid=CJTitOTL6cACFU1cfgod8YoAeQ
 
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