Cuttting EMT With A Tube Cutter
Another point of view. As a contractor I have been using the same Rigid # 205 tube cutter for more than 30 years to cut EMT 1/2--2". I've run into many folks in the field during that time, that claimed it was illegal to use it because it left the sharp ridge. Personally I use it because it works better than anything else I've tried, fits in my pouch and goes everywhere I need to go, up 30', or below grade, and doesn't require anything but me to support the EMT for cutting.
Proper reaming with the built in reamer blade is definitely a learned technique, that most folks have a hard time mastering. Any helper I've had always had issues with the reaming, even after showing them the proper technique several times. It requires strong hands, a sharp reamer blade, proper posture in relation to the tube, and the idea that you are cutting steel off with a knife edge. Most users tend to think that rubbing the cutter at a right angle to the burr will somehow magically remove that burr, (works with copper but not steel). All that accomplishes with steel is dulling the reamer cutting edge. For helpers I usually give them a unibit to ream with, but then you need to carry around the drill, or worse carry around a portaband as well as a reaming tool.
The #205 cutter has special wheels available just for cutting steel that are different than the ones that come with it for soft tubing, they also make ones for PVC pipe that work well. I use both of them with good success. I'm a perfectionist when installing EMT piping, I can't stand tubing with non square ends, with burs on the inside and outside from cutting with a saw, and the cleanup time involved in preparing it for installation. Even after deburring a non square end never fully bottoms in the fittings, making the installed length variable and loose fits.
Years ago after Greenlee came out with their similar cutter with it's special blade (depth stop) I got the idea to try the technique with my 205 by only cutting partially through and doing the snap technique. It works when done properly, you need to get a feel for the depth to cut before trying to snap it, too far and you still need to ream, too little and you bend the tube trying to snap it.
I think the problem most folks have using a tube cutter is that they apply too much pressure during the cut forcing the metal to move inwards. Less pressure and more rotations makes for less reaming, and a longer lasting blade.
A good side benefit of the Rigid 205 is it's lifetime guarantee, almost indestructible and if it breaks when you drop it on the screw the local dealer will fix it, as well as replacing a worn out reamer blade that is riveted on. Cutting wheels and arbor pins are considered wearing parts and are not lifetime warranted.
Your mileage may vary. MTW
It's quicker to use a hacksaw by hand instead of this contraption.