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Wiring a 2 post lift.....

muddy

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 12, 2005
Messages
158
Location
Michigan
I've been only able to occassionally check in on here over the last several months........amazing work some of you have been doing. My shop build, which some of you might recall in the gallery section (don't even know how to reference it or remember how to post new pictures), is still going.
Although it looked fairly complete from the outside before the snow hit last winter, it is slow go inside with insulation,wiring,drywall but am getting there.
My wife is in the RN program so I am mister mom right now at times,too, which has slowed progress but in the end will be a plus.
Anyways, the lift I installed is a Challenger, and got a crazy deal on it. It looks like new other than the arms which I'll blast and repaint, it isn't that old but a local tire store replaced it and I got it at a great price.
I understand that it is recommended to run a dedicated circuit with a delay fuse in it? I also believe it can be run as 110 or 230, though I figure it was run as 110 at the tire store.
How do you guys run the wiring to your lift? I'd appreciate information in detail as well as explaining the overhead shut-off bar to not allow you to go to high. How does that switch actually work? Any explanations in detail would be appreciated............ Keith
 
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bmwpower

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 24, 2005
Messages
12,578
Location
NJ
Per my lift instructions, I have a 20A 240v dedicated circuit running #10 wire to a twist lock receptacle on the ceiling. Then I have #10 SJO cord (I think it's SJO) attached to a twist lock plug, which runs to the shutoff bar switch box. Then from the switch box, the wire runs to the motor on the lift. Quite simple, actually.

The shutoff bar (connected to the shutoff bar switch box) merely acts as a switch. When the "switch" is on, the power runs to the lift. When the "switch" gets tripped, the power to the lift stops.

If it's wired correct, the switch works as designed. I've had it trip a couple of times with tall vehicles. You *could* bypass it by running the power right to the motor, but that is NOT recommended.
 
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muddy

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 12, 2005
Messages
158
Location
Michigan
Thanks for reply......what is sjo cord? Also, is there a discernable sound or click when shut off bar switch is activated? What is the need for the twist lock receptacle......as opposed to standard 5252 receptacle?
Any chance that when you are bored sometime you could post a photo of how you routed the wiring for the lift, on the lift? I kind of looked at the photo of your lift in your shop build thread (very nice) but nothing was close enough on wiring to see it better......thanks in advance....... Keith
 
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bmwpower

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 24, 2005
Messages
12,578
Location
NJ
muddy said:
Thanks for reply......what is sjo cord? Also, is there a discernable sound or click when shut off bar switch is activated? What is the need for the twist lock receptacle......as opposed to standard 5252 receptacle?
Any chance that when you are bored sometime you could post a photo of how you routed the wiring for the lift, on the lift? I kind of looked at the photo of your lift in your shop build thread (very nice) but nothing was close enough on wiring to see it better......thanks in advance....... Keith

SJO is the type of cord. It's available at most big box stores.

I'm not sure if there is a click or not when the switch is tripped. I will have to check later this week.

I used the twist locks to avoid the cord from coming out of the receptacle. More money, but I felt it was worth it.

I don't believe I have any picts of the on lift wiring.
 

jezlberry

Active member
Joined
Jan 3, 2007
Messages
29
Location
Southern Maryland
Hey Muddy,
Your lift should have a 20 amp motor, but most guys run a 30 amp circuit with 10 gauge wire. The upper limit safety switch may be one of two designs.....either a micro swith mounted in the overhead bar (in which case you will hear a click when it is activated) or a mercury switch mounted on the top part of the column ( in which case you won't hear a cllick) Either way, the switch should wire directly into the motor, making it necessary only to run SJO, or SOOW cord ( extension cord type wire) from a junction box in the ceiling down to the motor. The twist lock should be near the motor so that you have a way to disconect power when servicing the lift, or in the event of a switch failure.
If you have any other questions, feel free to ask!
 
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