Wiring a lift

[ct03911]

My lift has the typical wiring setup. One power box on the column that requires 12-2 220 back to a double ganged 20amp breaker. Also, there is the cutout box on the overhead bar that is basically an interrupt setup.

My plan was to mount a box to the ceiling above (before sheetrock) and run two bx cables into it, with connectors, with the connections inside. Nice and neat and clean.

I can't find a metal box that extends out from the joists, like the plastic ones do typically. I'll have 5/8 drywall up there later so the box cannot be flush mounted to the joist. They all come that way. I don't get it.

So, I drilled a few holes in one to mount it the way I need. Problem is, they only sell metal cover plates with one knockout.

My options:

1.) I could take a blank cover plate and drill two holes in it.

2.) Perhaps find a plastic 4" box and cover plate that work?

3.) Mount a 4" metal box up on the top of the column and run the two bx cables into it and then come out with a single bx run to a single connection box on the ceiling.

All this because I can't find a correct box to ceiling mount (not hide) with two holes in a cover plate to accept two bx lines.

What am I missing? Can you guys show pictures of how you did it?

 

[manwithtools]

I would not use BX for connection from ceiling to lift, not the proper method. Run a piece of liquid-tite flexible conduit with individual conductors in it from your metal box down to the lift. These are available in the box stores as an air conditioner whip. 6 foot long, includes the flex, connectors and wire already in it. I'm not sure I understand why you need two circuits from ceiling to lift unless you are talking a second 120 circuit for a utility outlet or such?

 

[ct03911]

Where does it say you can't run bx to a ceiling box? I tried reading code last nite but never saw that.

I didn't mean two circuits if I wrote that.

I wanted to run one bx line from the shutoff box on the crossbar and one from the lift control box into a metal box flush mounted on the ceiling.

One box, ceiling mounted with two bx lines into it for the connections. All on the same circuit.

 

[manwithtools]

Duh, your post said BX and I was thinking NM. Guess I got up too late this morning, brain is not engaged. One limitation to BX is it can't be used where it is subject to physical damage, likely not the case from the ceiling to the top of the lift, others may disagree with that...

I'm still confused about the two connections. If you have a shutoff box on the cross bar as you describe, doesn't the wiring for that need to be in series with the lift control box? In other words; run from ceiling box to crossbar shutoff and then to control box?

Answer to your original question, if you need two holes, then just buy a blank cover and drill two holes in it. The metal box that you mounted to the ceiling joist could have been mounted flush to the joist face and then install a mud ring (shown in the picture) to extend out to the surface of the drywall where you would install the cover.

 

[ScD]

You only need one drop from the ceiling to the lift. The connection to the safety cut out switch should be made on the lift, not in the ceiling box.

On my lift I ran flex from the ceiling to a 4 square box mounted on top of the "off side" post. I than ran EMT conduit across the top of the lift to a conduit body "T" directly above the safety switch where I connected one leg to the switch. I didn't make the connection inside the tee. The tee is there so I could drop one hot leg down to the switch then back up into the tee. I continued the run in EMT on to the power unit.

 

[pattenp]

Use a round/octagon ceiling box and put a cover on it that has a knockout. Or use a ceiling box with an extension with a blank cover.

 

[ct03911]

Thank you everyone for the info.
I feel dumb, but it's not the first time.

I got a 3/4" extension plate to go on the ceiling box and a single cover plate with one knockout.

I'll run bx from that to the lift interrupt box - which does have two holes in it - and back out of that box the the motor.

It seems so obvious now...

 

[manwithtools]

Not dumb, that's why we ask each other questions. Sometimes the obvious is obvious to one person and not the other. Much depends on what said persons have as a background or experience.

If you have "been there and done that" things are much clearer than if you just started the journey. Glad you got it figured out.

Now why don't you come to Tennessee and help me modify my trusses and install my lift?

 

[Norcal]

Where are you getting / going to get BX? The material the big box stores carry is MC, Metal Clad cable, which is a different item from BX, which is slang for AC, Armored Cable, and they each have separate articles in the NEC. As with NM cable "Romex"® they are required to protected from physical damage.


Edit: AC is required to be used with "red heads", anti short bushings, MC is not but recommended.

 

[grizz_660]

Duh, your post said BX and I was thinking NM. Guess I got up too late this morning, brain is not engaged. One limitation to BX is it can't be used where it is subject to physical damage, likely not the case from the ceiling to the top of the lift, others may disagree with that...

I'm still confused about the two connections. If you have a shutoff box on the cross bar as you describe, doesn't the wiring for that need to be in series with the lift control box? In other words; run from ceiling box to crossbar shutoff and then to control box?

Answer to your original question, if you need two holes, then just buy a blank cover and drill two holes in it. The metal box that you mounted to the ceiling joist could have been mounted flush to the joist face and then install a mud ring (shown in the picture) to extend out to the surface of the drywall where you would install the cover.

The only difference between BX and Liquid tight conduit, is the LT portion. Both have the same properties that make it an armoured cable / armoured conduit.

 

[feudal serf]

Here is my setup.
Had a 220v heater there, ran protected wire into a dryer plug setup.


If there is a heaven for me, im sure there is a garage attached.

 

[ct03911]

To close the loop on this a bit....

None of the metal boxes are made to extend below the joists or studs, like the common blue boxes do. The box extensions are only made for a one gang or multi gang switch or outlet. Therefor, they don't make a cover plate to go on and "extended" box ring that would then just have one knockout in it.

What I did was take a 4" box with no mounting bracket on it and drill out two drywall screw holes to mount it.

I placed with it 5/8" showing below the joist so that it will then be flush when the fire rated ceiling goes up.

I ran the bx 12/2 out of the box, into the lift interrupt switch box, and then to the motor.

All correct bx fittings on the boxes (not the wire clamps) and even discovered the little red sleaves they sell to go in the end of the cut bx, so there are no sharp edges against the wire as it protrudes out from the end of the cut bx.

My metal boxes have the green pigtail grounding wires screwed into the boxes with the correct green screw and green wire nuts joining them all.

The stuff you learn here, my wiring book, or standing in the Home Depot isle for too many hours!

Thanks again for the help gents and I again apologize for my IPad rotating the pix. I don't know why it does that so I've tended to not post many pictures but I'm about done using this thing anyways.
New computer in the mail....

 

[manwithtools]

To close the loop on this a bit....

None of the metal boxes are made to extend below the joists or studs, like the common blue boxes do. The box extensions are only made for a one gang or multi gang switch or outlet. Therefor, they don't make a cover plate to go on and "extended" box ring that would then just have one knockout in it.

Glad you got it figured out. Just a point of clarification, the mud ring I posted and a single knockout blank cover is a better way to go IMO. The reason is; the drywall can be finished up to the mud ring and the cover will overlap the opening for a more finished appearance.

What you did will work just fine for the shop, but in a more finished area the combo shown below will look better. I should have been more specific when I responded earlier. I assumed you had a 4 square box and that's why I showed the mud ring I did.