Wiring a lighting contactor?

[RonRock]

I have 3 switches wired together in my house. Two 3 way, one 4 way for a planned yard light near the shed. Not sure of the distance, but it is a pretty long run, near 100 feet. I'd also like to have a switch in the shed.

So I'm thinking about putting a lighting contactor in the shed, switching it with the switch circuit from the house, and also a switch in the shed. Using a power circuit from the panel in the shed. I have a 400 amp service coming into my 400 amp disconnect, then split into 2 200 amp disconnects, 200 to house, 200 to shed. So does this sound like the best way to switch and power this light circuit?

 

[rockwithjason]

yup it's probably the best way to do this.

 

[mossy66]

I have 3 switches wired together in my house. Two 3 way, one 4 way for a planned yard light near the shed. Not sure of the distance, but it is a pretty long run, near 100 feet. I'd also like to have a switch in the shed.

So I'm thinking about putting a lighting contractor in the shed, switching it with the switch circuit from the house, and also a switch in the shed. Using a power circuit from the panel in the shed. I have a 400 amp service coming into my 400 amp disconnect, then split into 2 200 amp disconnects, 200 to house, 200 to shed. So does this sound like the best way to switch and power this light circuit?

Just to clarify, the switch in the shed should not energize the contactor, but should be in parallel with the contact on the contactor.

 

[RonRock]

Just to clarify, the switch in the shed should not energize the contactor, but should be in parallel with the contact on the contactor.

I think you have touched on the concern that I had with my wiring plan. Can you explain what you mean by "parallel with the contact"

My thoughts are that with the contactor wired the way I laid out, if the shed, or one of the house switches is left on, then the light would stay on. That will cause confusion and a lot of walking back down to the shed to shut off the light.

Maybe the shed switch has to be a 4 way? I don't think I would be able to run the wires to do that at this point. The house is finished, I ran all of the wires for this circuit to a box in the garage attic. Switch and power wire, 12 gauge cable.


I just caught the typo on contactor in OP. Stupid speel chek.

 

[mrb]

the switches in the house should be one 3 way and one or more 4 way. the 2 travelers out of the 4 way and the common from the 3 way should go to the shed where the travelers would connect to a 3 way. Then switch the contactor coil with this. How many watts is the light?

 

[Addrock]

This is an option I used for an outdoor light by a hot tub because of proximity to water it was especially nice. But in testing I could use it all over my property. You can add many switches.

http://www.lightningswitch.com/

 

[mossy66]

I think you have touched on the concern that I had with my wiring plan. Can you explain what you mean by "parallel with the contact"



My thoughts are that with the contactor wired the way I laid out, if the shed, or one of the house switches is left on, then the light would stay on. That will cause confusion and a lot of walking back down to the shed to shut off the light

Maybe the shed switch has to be a 4 way? I don't think I would be able to run the wires to do that at this point. The house is finished, I ran all of the wires for this circuit to a box in the garage attic. Switch and power wire, 12 gauge cable.


I just caught the typo on contactor in OP. Stupid speel chek.

You are correct. the switch in the shed would override the contactor, and the light would stay on when that switch was on. Then you might end up walking back to the house in the dark if the switch in the house was off.(and/or walking back out to turn it off)

Is the yard light just for getting to the shed, or do you turn it on every night for security? If it's on every night, you could wire it to a photocell to leave it on all night, or photocell with a time clock. Photocell turns it on at dusk, and the time clock turns it off at a predetermined time, like midnight.

Otherwise, it can be done with a couple of relays in addition to the contactor.

What do you have for wiring to the shed from the house, and what do you have going to the yard light?

Gerry

 

[Provincial]

Are you planning on running any wiring directly from the house to the garage? If so, you could run a low voltage control wire circuit and use a low voltage relay to operate the light.

I have a yard light about 50 yards from the house that has operated for 60 years with this system. It uses a GE RR-7 relay and a 24V transformer. The switch energizes one wire to close the relay and another to open the relay. The third wire carries the low voltage power feed. On the line voltage side you connect the high side contacts in the black wire to the light. The low and high voltage sides cannot use the same conduit or box unless there is a divider to keep them separate. The low voltage wires do not need to be in conduit if they are protected from damage by location (like inside a wall) but you would need to run conduit underground or an overhead 3-conductor wire from the house to the garage. I believe that the GE RR-7 has been superseded by newer verson, but it still works the same way. There are other brands out there, but my experience with the RR-7 is that the GE system will outlive your grandkids!