Wiring a switch loop in EMT

[ticklechicken]

DIY'er here trying to figure out some details before I start my wiring project. I'm using surface mount EMT, and I have some questions about switch loops. My main room in the shop has four entrances with switches at each, so that circuit will have 3-way and 4-way switches.

1 - With EMT, do I need a neutral in each switch box? As I read the 2011 code, I'm exempted from this since I'm using EMT.

2 - Should I use white wire with black tape for my switch loops? Since I'm using THHN in EMT instead of romex, I could just as easily use black wire (or blue, or yellow) for the loops.

 

[sberry]

Use colored wire.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Yes you are exempted since you can pull a neutral later if necessary.

Dont use white wire for ungrounded conduxtors. That will only confuse things.

I would use black and black taped red for the travellers.

 

[ticklechicken]

Thanks guys

Use colored wire.

Do you mean to use anything except white? Or do you mean to use a specific non-white color?

 

[sberry]

Not white.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

No green either except for grounding conductors...

 

[ticklechicken]

Got it

 

[Radix2]

If you have any interest in home automation where you can remotely control or cooordinate any if these switches - then just put the neutral in now since the smart switches require it.

Yes you are exempted and could do it later, but it is never going to be as easy as doing it right now...

 

[prostreetamx]

If you have a neutral available at the box that feeds the actual light fixture, you would not need one in any of the boxes that just have 3-way and 4-way switches. You would only need a hot lead as a common and 2 travelers in the first 3-way, only 4 travelers in the 4-ways and a light lead and neutral source in the last 3-way to feed the light. Smart switches would normally replace a 3-way or single pole switch. Haven't seen a smart 4-way switch yet. When I did commercial wiring in conduit, I used yellow or orange as switch legs and purple for travelers. I would use black, red or blue, depending on the phase, as a hot. Anyone could trouble shoot it pretty easy with this standard.

 

[theoldwizard1]

If you have any interest in home automation where you can remotely control or cooordinate any if these switches - then just put the neutral in now since the smart switches require it.

New/proposed (?) code requires neutral in the switch box and in the load box for the above reason.

They will be selling a lot more 14/3 Romex !

 

[dscheidt]

New/proposed (?) code requires neutral in the switch box and in the load box for the above reason.

They will be selling a lot more 14/3 Romex !

Not if you have conduit with the wire capacity, or can otherwise add a neutral without disturbing finish material. The question was whether he should.

 

[prostreetamx]

I have seen where guys ran 14-2 for travelers and just marked the white. Personally I have never done it because it would cause too much confusion later. I want red and black travelers in my boxes though I have marked the white in cases where the 3-way is at a dead end and both the load and line were in the first box. This would not give you a neutral at the dead end though. Many times when running conduit, the power and neutral are already in the ceiling box and only a power and switch leg are dropped to the switch box.