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Wiring a welder outlet

ratdoggy

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I'm ready to wire up an outlet in my garage for my Lincoln 225 ac/dc stick welder. My electrical box is 10' from where I want to put the outlet. My question is can I use 8-2 romex for this? It has a black ,white and bare copper conductors inside the plastic cover.
Thanks
Mike
 
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Norcal

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I'm ready to wire up an outlet in my garage for my Lincoln 225 ac/dc stick welder. My electrical box is 10' from where I want to put the outlet. My question is can I use 8-2 romex for this? It has a black ,white and bare copper conductors inside the plastic cover.
Thanks
Mike

As long as you reidentify the white conductor & do not use a breaker in excess of 40 amperes, 8/2 NM is fine.
 

Norcal

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You can put a 50A breaker on an 8 wire for that machine. It calls for 50A service.

Not on 8 AWG NM (Romex) cable it is 40 amperes MAXIMUM.

NM cable is sized from the 60 degree column of NEC table 310.16. Use 8 AWG THHN in conduit & 50A is compliant w/ code rules.
 
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JBurgess

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Not on 8 AWG NM (Romex) cable it is 40 amperes MAXIMUM.

NM cable is sized from the 60 degree column of NEC table 310.16. Use 8 AWG THHN in conduit & 50A is compliant w/ code rules.

Even for a dedicated outlet for a welder with a 20% duty cycle? Would 630.11
permit the #8 ?
 

sberry

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Thousands and thousands of these circuits were installed when buzzers became popular by licensed electricians with 10 romex on 50A fuses in garages back in the day.
 

MrMark

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Not on 8 AWG NM (Romex) cable it is 40 amperes MAXIMUM.

NM cable is sized from the 60 degree column of NEC table 310.16. Use 8 AWG THHN in conduit & 50A is compliant w/ code rules.

This is correct. This man knows his stuff. I am impressed. You need to look up the load current draw on your welder and make sure that this circuit is sized at 125 percent of load current.

Also, to get technical you cannot tape to code wires on 4 or below. So it is my understanding that you cannot tape the white wire black on the 8/2 romex. You would need to use 8/3, which comes with black and red and simply not use the white. This is what I would do anyway because it is always good to have the neutral there for 110 service should that ever be needed.

I just put one of these in myself. I used 6 awg THHN with 10 ground on a 50 amp double pole breaker in 3/4 flex. The run was only a couple of feet. I pulled 2 hots and a neutral and put in a 50 amp 120/240 plug. This way I can accomodate whatever the future brings.
 

mrb

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This is correct. This man knows his stuff. I am impressed. You need to look up the load current draw on your welder and make sure that this circuit is sized at 125 percent of load current.

Also, to get technical you cannot tape to code wires on 4 or below. So it is my understanding that you cannot tape the white wire black on the 8/2 romex. You would need to use 8/3, which comes with black and red and simply not use the white. This is what I would do anyway because it is always good to have the neutral there for 110 service should that ever be needed.

I just put one of these in myself. I used 6 awg THHN with 10 ground on a 50 amp double pole breaker in 3/4 flex. The run was only a couple of feet. I pulled 2 hots and a neutral and put in a 50 amp 120/240 plug. This way I can accomodate whatever the future brings.

you can reidentify the white conductor in a cable of any awg.
 

MrMark

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you can reidentify the white conductor in a cable of any awg.

You are right. You just can't reidentify a black or colored wire to white to identify a grounded conductor with tape for sizes 6 AWG or smaller.

I got this reversed.
 

Aceman

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This is correct. This man knows his stuff. I am impressed. You need to look up the load current draw on your welder and make sure that this circuit is sized at 125 percent of load current.

Also, to get technical you cannot tape to code wires on 4 or below. So it is my understanding that you cannot tape the white wire black on the 8/2 romex. You would need to use 8/3, which comes with black and red and simply not use the white. This is what I would do anyway because it is always good to have the neutral there for 110 service should that ever be needed.

MrMark, I think you need to brush up on some code before giving advice on what you think is or is not correct.

I also don't agree that the circuit has to be fullsized to support a welder with a low duty cycle.
 

MrMark

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MrMark, I think you need to brush up on some code before giving advice on what you think is or is not correct.

I also don't agree that the circuit has to be fullsized to support a welder with a low duty cycle.

WHy don't you give a citation to support your position.

How do you know that the welder is low duty cycle?

I know way more code than the people I see posting here that routinely get stuff wrong. I at least actually have a code book, 2008 version with commentary too. How about you.
 

Aceman

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WHy don't you give a citation to support your position.

Sorry, but you're the one agreeing with Norcal saying I need to run fullsize wire, you tell me the code article that requires it.

How do you know that the welder is low duty cycle?

Because I know how to Google.

I know way more code than the people I see posting here that routinely get stuff wrong. I at least actually have a code book, 2008 version with commentary too. How about you.

Is that an excuse for posting misinformation, because everyone else does?
 

MrMark

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Sorry, but you're the one agreeing with Norcal saying I need to run fullsize wire, you tell me the code article that requires it.



Because I know how to Google.



Is that an excuse for posting misinformation, because everyone else does?


That is just stupid.

Because the guy might have a low duty cycle welder right now he should size his circuit to the minimum possible specs? Love that thinking. What if he decided to upgrade or what if he decides he wants to plug a compressor or table saw in some day. Why wouldn't any electrician with an ounce of brains future proof this guy's setup. For the price of a couple dollars increased wire costs, electricians routinely undersize circuits.

I would assume a duty cycle of 100 percent under 630.11(a) and give the guy a safe setup that isn't going to need upgrading because someone saved $6.78 and undersized his wires.

This is why I would never hire an electrician to do anything. Because all you get is the bare minimum, and most of the time, not even that.
 
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Nostraquedeo

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Here we go.....every got damn time! Nothing personal against any of you, just the whole wire sizing debate gets old! I understand the point of arguing for a larger size wire, but to argue your point for a smaller size wire just seems dumb! Pride and ego are just so important to some people!
 

Aceman

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Let's be clear on one thing. I never said I run the minimum size wire required for a welder. In fact I've ran fullsized circuits every single time. What I don't agree with is telling someone they have to run fullsize circuits when we all know that is not the case most of the time. Now your mixing fact with opinion.

As for electricians only giving the bare minimum, you have no idea how I wire. Did you ever consider some folks might not want to pay for more than the bare minimum?

If a customer wants a welder recep but doesn't want to pay for anymore wire than he has too, he wants the bare minimum sized for his welder only. The code allows it, the customer isn't willing to pay for anymore than necessary, do you think I'm going to turn down installing a welder recep just because I think he would be better served with a fullsize circuit?

Fortunately, this hasn't been an issue yet as most of my welder installs have been commercial, industrial, and ag. They're willing to pay for larger wire and there are no guarantees on what they may plug in, in the future.
 
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Nostraquedeo

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I think people here ask for advice becuase they are uncertain of what needs provided or want to make sure they are installing something correctly. I personally think arguing the point of a minimum installation is doing them an injustice and most likely just confussing them. I know if I ask a question and I get two different responses and the responders begin to argue their point, my first thought is neither one of them know what the hell they are doing, and at that point their responses become unimportant to me.

As to the point of providing the bare minimum to a "customer" at their request, I doubt you would be doing the install if they knew what the minimum was.
 

sberry

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The 8 will be fine for a welder circuit. That is not a bare minimum, a 12 would be the minimum and in this case it might even be a 14. I would like to see where the circuit design calls for 125% of load.
I have had differences of opinion with Aceman but he makes the same point.
What I don't agree with is telling someone they have to run fullsize circuits when we all know that is not the case most of the time. Now your mixing fact with opinion.
Use the 8, don't lose sleep and it wouldn't even bother me not to see tape on this white as it would be obvious as to what this big fat wire does in this single wire circuit, not easily confused such as a 12 in a Jbox for a switch loop. Its good to go with the rules but some simple common sense is in order also.
To add to this Ace has proven me wrong, he is about as current and as accurate as any I see on forums and definitely encourages safe installs. At times his etiquette might leave a bit to be desired but I don't see any evidence the doesn't know WTF he is talking about or that he graduated at the bottom of the class.
 

hidollartoys

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Sorry if I started a "Ford vs Chevy" debate but I'm still not clear on if that cable will work for my application.

The SHORT answer to your question is ........Yes it will work.

The LONG answer to your question is .......It does not have to be that large wire size or as large a breaker.
 

tdkkart

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That is just stupid.

Because the guy might have a low duty cycle welder right now he should size his circuit to the minimum possible specs? Love that thinking. What if he decided to upgrade or what if he decides he wants to plug a compressor or table saw in some day. Why wouldn't any electrician with an ounce of brains future proof this guy's setup. For the price of a couple dollars increased wire costs, electricians routinely undersize circuits.

I would assume a duty cycle of 100 percent under 630.11(a) and give the guy a safe setup that isn't going to need upgrading because someone saved $6.78 and undersized his wires.

This is why I would never hire an electrician to do anything. Because all you get is the bare minimum, and most of the time, not even that.



This is exactly the way I see it. Scrimping will do nothing but get you in trouble.

You go in and wire in a welder circuit with #10 wire but hang a 50amp receptacle on the end of it, and supply it with a 50A breaker.
All is fine and good until the homeowner decides to get into powdercoating and plugs in huge oven, plugs in a big 'ole heater, or a 350A TIG welder because the plug fits his outlet.

**** goes the attached house with 3 little kids inside, your name was on the job, and then what happens??

Another fine example of what a cluster some of codes are, as well as the enforcement of these codes. Going by the letter of the code causes more problems than doing it the way that makes sense.
 

GeorgiaHybrid

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Sorry if I started a "Ford vs Chevy" debate but I'm still not clear on if that cable will work for my application.

Don't lose any sleep over it. Wire it up with the 8-2, wrap the white to re-identify it, wire up a 50 amp recep and put a 30 amp breaker on the circuit. If that pops due to a long duty cycle on your welder, increase it to a 40 amp breaker.

If you sell the house and someone does pop the breaker, they should (and will) check to see if the wiring will support a 50 amp circuit. Like it has been said on here before about people wondering if they can just up the breaker size, "If the original electrician thought it would work on a 50 amp breaker, he would have put one in". It is not your problem at that point.

I doubt that your welder will pop a 30 amp breaker though.....
 

JBurgess

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I have a 45 year old lincon 225 AC only welder and at full power it will trip a 30 amp breaker in about 5 min. I used to have to plug it into a dryer outlet before I had an real recepticle for it. Duty cycle is about 6 min out of 30 (20%) so unless you use full power a 30 amp would probably work.
 

MrMark

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Let's be clear on one thing. I never said I run the minimum size wire required for a welder. In fact I've ran fullsized circuits every single time. What I don't agree with is telling someone they have to run fullsize circuits when we all know that is not the case most of the time. Now your mixing fact with opinion.

As for electricians only giving the bare minimum, you have no idea how I wire. Did you ever consider some folks might not want to pay for more than the bare minimum?

If a customer wants a welder recep but doesn't want to pay for anymore wire than he has too, he wants the bare minimum sized for his welder only. The code allows it, the customer isn't willing to pay for anymore than necessary, do you think I'm going to turn down installing a welder recep just because I think he would be better served with a fullsize circuit?

Fortunately, this hasn't been an issue yet as most of my welder installs have been commercial, industrial, and ag. They're willing to pay for larger wire and there are no guarantees on what they may plug in, in the future.

These hypothetical customers you reference who are willing to only pay for the bare minimum would not be not very smart. Would you explain to them that the increased wire cost to make a more flexible future design is negligible compared to the labor costs? Would they understand that they are stepping over dollars to pick up pennies. I have never met a homeowner that would cheap out on a wire, when the cost increase was rather insignificant compared to the labor. How about you?

This reminds me a buying cheap paint. Only a stupid *** buys cheap paint to save 100 bucks on a job that is 90 percent labor and the cheap paint will have to be redone quicker costing even more labor.

I would assume a continuous load and not even for one second think about the special low duty cycle welder section. It may make sense for commercial, (I doubt commercial would ever go bare minimum either) but not for residential where people see a 240 circuit and want to plug other things in and where people upgrade their welders.

This application calls for a 50 amp circuit. I would run the 8 individual wires in conduit or 6 romex. Total cost for materials about $30 including the breaker. If the poster insists on using what he has (the 8 romex rated at 40 amps continuous) then he should stick with a 40 amp breaker. It will undoubtedly be fine.

I stand by my comments. Electricians routinely undersize circuits, conductors, boxes, and conduit, to save nickles at the expense of future flexibility and headache. There is no reason for it. If you don't do these things, and I obviously have no way of knowing whether you do or you don't or whether you flat rate jobs or whether you treat every job as if it were your own, then you are to be commended and you are also - rare. For all I know you may square cut all your PVC with a miter saw, use a calibrated torque wrench on service entrance and main panel lugs, a torque screwdriver on every other connection, make sure you don't nick any wires when stipping insulation or insulation when stripping jackets, make sure all your screws go 3/4 around every device, calculate box fill and conduit fill on every occassion, drill your holes dead center and the proper size, never use shared neutrals, or if you do put them on a double pole breaker, make sure all your boxes are flush with the finish surface, make sure every box is properly grounded and not relying on conduit, make sure excess bare wire is not exposed with every connection, pretwist your solids and cut off the end where you have damaged the conductor with your pliers, etc.

The NEC is a bare minimum below which is not safe. It should not be the beginning and end of the calculation.

I mix fact with opinion everyday. In fact, most of what you think is fact is really opinion at its core.
 
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Aceman

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These hypothetical customers you reference who are willing to only pay for the bare minimum would not be not very smart. Would you explain to them that the increased wire cost to make a more flexible future design is negligible compared to the labor costs? Would they understand that they are stepping over dollars to pick up pennies. I have never met a homeowner that would cheap out on a wire, when the cost increase was rather insignificant compared to the labor. How about you?

Like I said in a previous post, I've only ran fullsized circuits so far. So it hasn't come up. The problem that comes up on these forums is you get guys on here who ask if they can use #8 Romex, etc on a 50 amp welder circuit because that's what they happen to have on hand and you tell them your opinion as fact. The bottom line is, you personally just don't like it even though it's perfectly legal and you think he should install it to your standards. That's all it boils down to.

I stand by my comments. Electricians routinely undersize circuits, conductors, boxes, and conduit, to save nickles at the expense of future flexibility and headache. There is no reason for it.

I mix fact with opinion everyday. In fact, most of what you think is fact is really opinion at its core.

I have an NEC and know how to use it, so I know what the facts are. Obviously, we all make posts with a combination of facts and opinions. Your problem is you confuse the two. All you had to say was you'd recommend running #6 Romex instead of #8 in case he decided to plug something else in, but you didn't.

Since I think Nostraquedeo's blood pressure is about to go up I better quit posting in this thread.
 

Frankbank

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Hi,new guy here.I have posted in this section of the forum before and try to help out where I can.There seems to be a lot of misinformation here.Members relate info that they know but might not be fact.The N.E.C. is a complicated book.It is a law book not a design book.When we respond to members questions,we should answer to what they are asking in that question.The code is a minimum standard.You can always run a bigger wire or a better grade device. Electricians don't always skimp on wire or cost.We wire for what the customer wants,not what someone may want in the future.If you want that recpt. to be for a dual use you should specify that and that is how the circuit will be sized.The code allows you to downsize a wire if that circuit feeds a certain type of equipment. When you call the plumber to rough your bath,he doesn't rough your closet for a future bath unless you tell him to.
Just my opinion.

Frankbank
 

MrMark

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Like I said in a previous post, I've only ran fullsized circuits so far. So it hasn't come up. The problem that comes up on these forums is you get guys on here who ask if they can use #8 Romex, etc on a 50 amp welder circuit because that's what they happen to have on hand and you tell them your opinion as fact. The bottom line is, you personally just don't like it even though it's perfectly legal and you think he should install it to your standards. That's all it boils down to.



I have an NEC and know how to use it, so I know what the facts are. Obviously, we all make posts with a combination of facts and opinions. Your problem is you confuse the two. All you had to say was you'd recommend running #6 Romex instead of #8 in case he decided to plug something else in, but you didn't.

Since I think Nostraquedeo's blood pressure is about to go up I better quit posting in this thread.

I'll give you that. I don't want to get into a discussion of epistomology. I do disagree with the NEC section on welders. That is my opinion, yes. I don't think it is safe/good practice for residential to follow those rules. I expect it will be changed over time. What the NEC states is a fact. What it means is opinion. 99.999 percent of what we state is opinion. I hope everyone understands that.
 

MrMark

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Hi,new guy here.I have posted in this section of the forum before and try to help out where I can.There seems to be a lot of misinformation here.Members relate info that they know but might not be fact.The N.E.C. is a complicated book.It is a law book not a design book.When we respond to members questions,we should answer to what they are asking in that question.The code is a minimum standard.You can always run a bigger wire or a better grade device. Electricians don't always skimp on wire or cost.We wire for what the customer wants,not what someone may want in the future.If you want that recpt. to be for a dual use you should specify that and that is how the circuit will be sized.The code allows you to downsize a wire if that circuit feeds a certain type of equipment. When you call the plumber to rough your bath,he doesn't rough your closet for a future bath unless you tell him to.
Just my opinion.

Frankbank

Point proven; Case dismissed.
 

MrMark

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. Do you think you'd get alot of jobs bidding against guys who aren't sizing every thing for a continuous load?

walrus, that is a fair point. What I think you should do is try to educate the customer who typically understands absolutely nothing about electricity. Tell the customer what you know and explain how this plug may be used for other things. Ask the customer if he's absolutely sure he will never get a bigger badder welder and that he will never want to plug something else 240 in. You probably should also put some form of marking plate on the plug to the following effect:

"Warning, this circuit is dedicated for use ONLY with a 20 percent duty cycle arc welding unit and its wiring is derated to take into account the low usage cycle of this unit. Do not plug any other device into this outlet."

I'm actually very surprised that the NEC does not require a warning to be permanently affixed.

You have to remember that when I make a comment, I am not commenting from the point of view of a guy doing this for a living. Because I am able to do this type of work myself and have extensive study and experience in this area, I do set higher standards than what a working electrician could do and still make money.
 

sberry

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"Warning, this circuit is dedicated for use ONLY with a 20 percent duty cycle arc welding unit and its wiring is derated to take into account the low usage cycle of this unit. Do not plug any other device into this outlet."
This would be true if the guy was using a minimum wire size but he is already 2 jumps ahead. He is using a wire heavy enough for any machine he can buy that comes with a 50A plug. No one is advocating a minimum here.
About the only thing I can think of that wouldnt fly he could plug in here is a pottery kiln and I doubt it comes with ready made cord on it. Even compressor to 7 1/2 hp wouldnt be an issue.
 
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MrMark

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This would be true if the guy was using a minimum wire size but he is already 2 jumps ahead. He is using a wire heavy enough for any machine he can buy that comes with a 50A plug. No one is advocating a minimum here.
About the only thing I can think of that wouldnt fly he could plug in here is a pottery kiln and I doubt it comes with ready made cord on it. Even compressor to 7 1/2 hp wouldnt be an issue.

Yes, I know that, although I can't vouch for your comment re the 7.5 hp motor as I tend to doubt that since the guy says he has romex 8 which can only be protected with a 40 amp breaker for a regular circuit. A 5 hp motor would draw 30 amps at load. Number 8 romex with a 40 amp breaker would suffice for a 32 amp continuous load (.8 X 40) so the 5 amp hotor would be fine on this circuit, but barely. Therefore, I doubt you are correct as to the 7.5 hp motor.

My warning was in reference to someone relying on the special wiring provisions for low duty cycle welders, which this guy won't be unless he sticks a 50 amp breaker on that wire. I thought that was clear.

Yeah, I figured someone would chime in on the shared neutrals. Old timers tend to use them because . . . well, because they could. Sure it saves the $6.78 for a white wire for every two circuits at the expense of future confusion and peril to the guy who comes along later and needs to work on something. Oh, and heaven forbid what happens to anything pluged in to that shared neutral circuit should the neutral open. AND, I have never seen one done right with two pole breaker or tie bar.

This is yet another example of the way electricians routinely do things to the bare minimum for little to no reason. Shared neutrals no more achieve load balancing than placing two circuits on different phase conductors. It's kind of like not running a green wire with EMT or using 14/2 for lighting. No great reason for it, but it does save a pitifully small amount of money at the expense of future flexibility.

If you go by the minimum standards as your guide, that is what you tend to end to with.
 
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Aceman

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Since the BS was unbearable I had to post one more time...

I just wanted to say that it's a good thing MrMark is on here to tell all us dumb lazy electricians what we're doing wrong...

Seriously, it's amazing I even passed my test. Watch out, me and my bare minimum standards may set your house on fire!!
 
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