To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Wiring an Outlet

Lindy911

Active member
Joined
Dec 3, 2017
Messages
27
Location
Houston / Brenham, TX
I installed an 120V outlet in my garage and pulled power from the light switch box above it. There are 2 switches and both are connected to another switch that controls the same light. White wire on one side, black wire on the other, and a ground wire. It seems like the voltage is only 1/2 of what it should be. I have not checked it with a meter, just nothing works like it should. I tried an electric charcoal starter and it never got very hot. Tried a test light and it comes on, but, is dim. Although I'm not an electrician, I have installed lighting and wall outlets several times without much difficulty. What am I missing? Thanks!
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Wrench97

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 23, 2018
Messages
12,053
Location
Southeastern Pa
Sounds like you have a 3 way switch, most likely the power and neutral are in the light box and the switch box only has the traveler and hot wires no neutral.

956852128b78fc13c7d5897340e6c8dca3478e4b.jpg
 
Last edited:

fitter30

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 23, 2019
Messages
2,966
Location
Peace Valley,mo
Two switches controlling the light are wired in a three way configuration. Assuming the light worked correctly before you hooked up the new outlet. Disconnect added outlet with wiring as before check power at light ,work switches. Also check all neutral/ white wires for a tight connection could have lost the neutral. Also if wires are stabbed in the back of the receptacle wrap wires around the screw terminals theres only a thin piece of metal making the connection when there stabbed.
 

Zeke

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 13, 2009
Messages
17,176
Location
Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
I installed an 120V outlet in my garage and pulled power from the light switch box above it. There are 2 switches and both are connected to another switch that controls the same light. White wire on one side, black wire on the other, and a ground wire. It seems like the voltage is only 1/2 of what it should be. I have not checked it with a meter, just nothing works like it should. I tried an electric charcoal starter and it never got very hot. Tried a test light and it comes on, but, is dim. Although I'm not an electrician, I have installed lighting and wall outlets several times without much difficulty. What am I missing? Thanks!

Hold on...what?? 2 switches in the same box that are hooked to another switch that can control one light? That ain't right.

Sounds like you have the typical 3-way switch with an extra switch included. That might not, certainly not, have been the original configuration. You need to kill the circuit where all this is on (verify 2wice because it could be back fed or another circuit in there), pull out the 2 switches, label what you know for sure (that might not be anything in this scenario), take a pic with your phone both the whole box and maybe a couple close ups of the sides of the devices (assuming they aren't backstabs) and post the pics. Do this at the other end as well.

I also would help if you can find the hot leg which could be in that 'other' switch box. You need to be uber careful identifying hots. If have the slightest question — don't do it.

There is plenty of info on how to post pics if you aren't familiar.

The proletariat here will get you sorted.
 
OP
L

Lindy911

Active member
Joined
Dec 3, 2017
Messages
27
Location
Houston / Brenham, TX
Hold on...what?? 2 switches in the same box that are hooked to another switch that can control one light? That ain't right.

Sounds like you have the typical 3-way switch with an extra switch included. That might not, certainly not, have been the original configuration. You need to kill the circuit where all this is on (verify 2wice because it could be back fed or another circuit in there), pull out the 2 switches, label what you know for sure (that might not be anything in this scenario), take a pic with your phone both the whole box and maybe a couple close ups of the sides of the devices (assuming they aren't backstabs) and post the pics. Do this at the other end as well.

I also would help if you can find the hot leg which could be in that 'other' switch box. You need to be uber careful identifying hots. If have the slightest question — don't do it.

There is plenty of info on how to post pics if you aren't familiar.

The proletariat here will get you sorted.

Let me clarify....The source of the power is a box with 2 light switches. One switch controls the garage light, and the other controls a spot light for the driveway. Each of them is a 3 way switch. Thanks !
 

rburke65

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 10, 2007
Messages
12,349
Location
Canfield, Ohio
But, do you have a constant 120 volt supply in the box? Do not assume because you see a black and a white insulated conductor that you have 120volts.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

teamextreme

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 10, 2013
Messages
867
Location
Lakewood, CO
But, do you have a constant 120 volt supply in the box? Do not assume because you see a black and a white insulated conductor that you have 120volts.

Exactly. He has not described in detail where he grabbed power from. Did you connect the neutral (white) to a white that was on the switch, or in a wire nut in the box? If it was from the switch, that's not a neutral and explains the issue you're having. Same with the hot, are you certain you used a constant hot source and not a switch leg or traveler from the 3-way?
 

petee_c

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 4, 2010
Messages
3,029
Location
KW area, Ontario CANADA
Exactly. He has not described in detail where he grabbed power from. Did you connect the neutral (white) to a white that was on the switch, or in a wire nut in the box? If it was from the switch, that's not a neutral and explains the issue you're having. Same with the hot, are you certain you used a constant hot source and not a switch leg or traveler from the 3-way?



Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
 

nadogail

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2009
Messages
31,910
Location
Coronado, CA
Shoemaker, stick to your last.

My guess is that your lack of knowledge is dangerous.

Buy a local electrician an adult beverage and get some advice.
 

SGKent

Banned
Joined
Feb 12, 2010
Messages
1,959
Location
Citrus Heights CA
half power means there is a voltage drop somewhere. Voltage drop usually equals resistance. Resistance and current = heat. Don't start a fire please. Were it me I would have put in a new circuit to do what I wanted. Also, I have never heard of one switch controlling two three-way switches. Usually it is one-one. not one-two. Unless the one switch is a double pole switch so it acts like two switches.
 

Zeke

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 13, 2009
Messages
17,176
Location
Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
half power means there is a voltage drop somewhere. Voltage drop usually equals resistance. Resistance and current = heat. Don't start a fire please. Were it me I would have put in a new circuit to do what I wanted. Also, I have never heard of one switch controlling two three-way switches. Usually it is one-one. not one-two. Unless the one switch is a double pole switch so it acts like two switches.

Right. Can you imagine the confusion? Want to turn both off and they're not sequenced. Go back the first location to get them both on or off.

Still, something ain't right (we know that ;):D)
 

Milton Shaw

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 11, 2011
Messages
4,835
From the drawings given you do not have a neutral in either switch box. The white wire you list as common is a traveler in that wiring diagram. You have to go to the box with the light bulb and incoming power to get a neutral. That white wire in the box with the light is the only neutral anywhere in that circuit.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom