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Wiring Barn question..... Clarification really

Gerry347

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May 19, 2012
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Grafton, OH
Sorry for the long post but I wanted to provide as much info as possible the first time. I've read a lot and ran a bunch of numbers but I want to make sure I'm doing things right the first time.

I want to run a 70 amp service from my house to my barn and the main panel in the house is 200 amps. From the main panel a 125 amp breaker feeds a sub-panel on the other side of the house that previous owner installed to feed the barn at a later date. The sub-panel services the kitchen (fridge, microwave, dishwasher), 3 garage door openers and some wall plugs. The barn will have a 100 amp main lug panel being fed by a 70 amp breaker in the 125 amp sub-panel.

The power items in the barn will be as follows,,,,,, 8 - 4' LED shop lights, 2 outside LED lights, 1 ceiling fan, Hot Dawg propane heater with an internal fan (it draws 2.7 amps), Craftsman 5.5 hp compressor, band saw, a couple cordless chargers, 4 light switches and a dozen of or wall plugs. I also have a Millermatic 211 welder that can run on 110 or 220 (30 amp breaker needed for 220 and will see very limited use).

Of course everything won't be on at the same time and at most I can see myself using the following items at the same time....

- lights, heater, chargers and welder
- lights, heater chargers and compressor
- lights, heater, chargers and band saw
(I think you get the idea)

From the house to the barn is 104' inside 1 1/4" PVC at 18" underground. I was planning to use #4 copper wire with a #8 ground and then 14-2 or 12-2 wiring in the barn. A grounding rod will be installed outside the barn.

With all this information do you think #4 wire is big enough for my needs or should I step up to #2 wire?? Or am I going too big and should drop down to #6 wire (I doubt it)?? The cost between the 3 is huge so I don't mind saving a few dollars if I can.

Am I doing the right thing here or do I need to tweak my plans a bit??


Thanks in advance for any help you folks can offer.
 
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pattenp

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You could use 2-2-2-4 Aluminum Mobile Home Feeder which is good to 90A, but feeding it with 70A is okay. You should use a main breaker panel and not a main lug. The main lug will limit you to six breakers if you don't have a main disconnect at the barn. The #2 MHF will need as a minimum 1.25" conduit, but I suggest 1.5 as minimum, better yet 2".
 
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Gerry347

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Grafton, OH
All that info and I still missed something.... :) :).

The conduit is already in the ground from the previous owner so I'm stuck with 1 1/4" unless I feel like digging everything up which I really don't want to do.

I take it feeding the #2 MHF in that size PVC will be a real PITA.
 

Bert_

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Aluminum will save you a bunch on money on the run. You could run a #2 and protect it at 90 amps.

Some XHHW would pull easier than the twisted MHF cable. Plenty of room in 1 1/4".
Just get some lengths cut, 2x #2, 1x #4, and 1x #6. Doubt it would cost much more.
 
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Gerry347

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Grafton, OH
depends on the number of bends....

There are two 90's at the bottom of the trench ---- one at the house and one at the barn. There's also a very slight bend between the two but for the most part it's a straight shot. The LB connector at the house was never glued on so I can pop it off. On the barn side the PVC pipe is sticking out of the slab about 5".
 

theoldwizard1

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Some XHHW would pull easier than the twisted MHF cable. Plenty of room in 1 1/4".
Just get some lengths cut, 2x #2, 1x #4, and 1x #6. Doubt it would cost much more.

Same price. Unless they would let you run a bare ground.

I do not know what the rules are about doing your own color coding on that size cable.
 
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Gerry347

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Grafton, OH
You could use 2-2-2-4 Aluminum Mobile Home Feeder which is good to 90A, but feeding it with 70A is okay. You should use a main breaker panel and not a main lug. The main lug will limit you to six breakers if you don't have a main disconnect at the barn. The #2 MHF will need as a minimum 1.25" conduit, but I suggest 1.5 as minimum, better yet 2".

Beside the cost is there an advantage to using aluminum over copper?? I have always used cooper wiring so that's kinda why I picked it.

As for the panel, I have no problem using a main breaker panel in the barn I just figured I didn't need a main shutoff out there. Does it matter if the panel in the house is a main lug panel (I don't think it does but not 100% sure)??

Thanks!!!
 

laser3kw

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I have basically what you are purposing in my garage.
I have a 60 amp breaker on the house panel feeding a sub panel with a 100 amp main breaker.
As for the panel, I have no problem using a main breaker panel in the barn I just figured I didn't need a main shutoff out there
You don't need it, but it sure comes in handy at times.
As far as load, I have 30 T8 tubes, 3hp (5hp start) air compressor, Tig, Mig, Bridgeport and lath and other shop tools. Because few run simultaneously, I have never tripped the feeding breaker.
 

wyliesdiesels

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Modesto, CA
Beside the cost is there an advantage to using aluminum over copper?? I have always used cooper wiring so that's kinda why I picked it.

As for the panel, I have no problem using a main breaker panel in the barn I just figured I didn't need a main shutoff out there. Does it matter if the panel in the house is a main lug panel (I don't think it does but not 100% sure)??

Thanks!!!

As said above the subpanel in the detached building will need a main IF there is more than 6 breaker handles...

As for the main, there needs to be a main disconnect on the service, so if its not in the panel then it would be at or near the meter.

How about taking some pics of what you got and post them here...

You don't need it, but it sure comes in handy at times.
As far as load, I have 30 T8 tubes, 3hp (5hp start) air compressor, Tig, Mig, Bridgeport and lath and other shop tools. Because few run simultaneously, I have never tripped the feeding breaker.

He will need it if he will have more than breaker handles...
 

pattenp

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I think there may be some confusion on the main disconnect. A subpanel that is located in the same building as the main service panel does not require a main breaker disconnect. But an outbuilding being served power from a different building requires a main disconnect located at the outbuilding if there are more than 6 breakers located at the outbuilding to shut off all power in the outbuilding.
 
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Gerry347

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I think there may be some confusion on the main disconnect. A subpanel that is located in the same building as the main service panel does not require a main breaker disconnect. But an outbuilding being served power from a different building requires a main disconnect located at the outbuilding if there are more than 6 breakers located at the outbuilding to shut off all power in the outbuilding.

Thank You!!!!!

I was a little confused on this part but not anymore :thumbup:. I had a company give me a quote to run the power wire and they were crazy high so I'm doing it myself. I've done inside wiring before but never ran a feed line between panels so that why I'm asking questions before I start.
 

anuccite

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Richlands, NC
with the smaller conduit.... and needing at least (2) #2's.... make sure you stagger your pull ends back for making it easier to get around the bends....

Have a helper feeding you the cable. and use plenty of lube. and I don't recall you saying how far the run was....
 
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Gerry347

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Messages
47
Location
Grafton, OH
with the smaller conduit.... and needing at least (2) #2's.... make sure you stagger your pull ends back for making it easier to get around the bends....

Have a helper feeding you the cable. and use plenty of lube. and I don't recall you saying how far the run was....

I was planning to do stagger the wire and use lube to make things easier.

The run is 104' total with 62' inside conduit with 2 90's where it enters and exits the ground.
 
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