Wiring for my barn

[Mr. Blair]

Hey guys,
I am getting ready to wire an exisiting barn about 130 feet from our house. The barn is used for our goats and horses. Since we are now in birtthing season for the goats we need to run several heat lamps and water trough heaters to keep everyone warm and water from freezing. I will be running:
4- 250 Watt heat lamps
2- 250 Watt water trough heaters
2- 125 Watt heated buckets
and 12-60 Watt bulb overhead lights
Need to know what size/type wiring to run to the barn for sevice and what size breaker to use to tie into the house.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[DoyleDee]

Looks from my calculation that it is 2470w total. If you only run 120v to the shop you will need around 20.5 amps (to err on the safe side lets just say 30 amps).
10 guage is good for 30 amps, but the length I would run 8 guage just to be safe-that would be 8-hot 8-neutral and 10 ground (I think this would work- maybe 8 for ground too). I am not an electrician, but I have done some electrical- I'm sure someone will chime in that knows.
I'd rather you be safe than sorry.
My opinion is just my opinion...

 

[spongerich]

If you're going to go through the trouble and expense of running a circuit, I'd opt for something that's going to give you some headroom to expand later. I believe that code only allows a single circuit to outbuildings, so if you want more power later, you'd have to replace it.

I wouldn't run anything smaller than 30a 220v... put in a subpanel and you can pull 110v branch circuits off of it.

 

[Mr. Blair]

Can I use alum. or copper at that size?

 

[BFBOB]

Can I use alum. or copper at that size?

30A requires 10AWG COPPER. I concur, run 8AWG, 30A, 220V and you'll be set for the forseeable future. A sub-panel letting you pull off 10 or so circuits will give you lots of versatility, and doesn't cost much.
Using 8AWG also lets you bury the cable. Underground, in conduit, the current capacity must be de-rated a bit. I don't remember how much right off hand, but 30A, 8AWG will give you plenty of margin. Use PVC conduit buried at LEAST a solid foot. Metal WILL leak. And, seal the ends of the conduit against air. (firestopping caulk works great, pretty easy to remove). Otherwise, the conduit will breathe with changes in the weather and eventually fill up with condensation. Make the conduit bigger than you think it needs to be.
Finally, while you've got the trench dug, put in a second conduit for future use - network, CATV, phone, whatever. Cheap and easy at the time, not so later. Seal it up too.

Oh, did I mention I hate overhead wires?

 

[Norcal]

30A requires 10AWG COPPER. I concur, run 8AWG, 30A, 220V and you'll be set for the forseeable future. A sub-panel letting you pull off 10 or so circuits will give you lots of versatility, and doesn't cost much.
Using 8AWG also lets you bury the cable. Underground, in conduit, the current capacity must be de-rated a bit. I don't remember how much right off hand, but 30A, 8AWG will give you plenty of margin. Use PVC conduit buried at LEAST a solid foot. Metal WILL leak. And, seal the ends of the conduit against air. (firestopping caulk works great, pretty easy to remove). Otherwise, the conduit will breathe with changes in the weather and eventually fill up with condensation. Make the conduit bigger than you think it needs to be.
Finally, while you've got the trench dug, put in a second conduit for future use - network, CATV, phone, whatever. Cheap and easy at the time, not so later. Seal it up too.



Oh, did I mention I hate overhead wires?

PVC must have at least 18" of cover & 24" is required if subject to vehicular traffic.