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Wiring from subpanel to ground rods

rust buster

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Thanks to the advice given on this thread http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=186091
I am going to put two ground rods on the detached garage I have. I have the ground rods and #6 copper wire. What is the best way to wire from the panel to the ground rods? Do I just drill a hols through the wall and run it (bare wire) down the siding and foundation and then underground to the rods, or does it need to be in any sort of conduit?
 
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pattenp

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What you're thinking is fine. No conduit is needed if the wire is run in an area that it is not subject to damage. If you think the part that's in the ground running to the rods may get cut from future digging such as in a flower bed then you can place it inside some 1/2" rigid conduit to protect it.
 

ishiboo

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Thanks to the advice given on this thread http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=186091
I am going to put two ground rods on the detached garage I have. I have the ground rods and #6 copper wire. What is the best way to wire from the panel to the ground rods? Do I just drill a hols through the wall and run it (bare wire) down the siding and foundation and then underground to the rods, or does it need to be in any sort of conduit?

It does not need to be in conduit if it's #6 or larger, though I think if you're passing through the wall it would be the cleanest. at the very least.

Make sure the tops and connections are all buried.

I think the slickest way to drive a rod is to get a SDS hammer drill, buy a cheap bit and cut the top off so you have a flat surface. Use a piece of rubber hose and a clamp to clamp it over the bit so that 50% of the rubber is over the bit. This way you can use it like a hammer to hammer the rod in for you. The rubber hose keeps the bit centered over the ground rod.
 

sparky36000

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I think the slickest way to drive a rod is to get a SDS hammer drill, buy a cheap bit and cut the top off so you have a flat surface. Use a piece of rubber hose and a clamp to clamp it over the bit so that 50% of the rubber is over the bit. This way you can use it like a hammer to hammer the rod in for you. The rubber hose keeps the bit centered over the ground rod.

Or just get a ground rod bit for you hammer drill, they work great.
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pattenp

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It does not need to be in conduit if it's #6 or larger, though I think if you're passing through the wall it would be the cleanest. at the very least.

Make sure the tops and connections are all buried.

I think the slickest way to drive a rod is to get a SDS hammer drill, buy a cheap bit and cut the top off so you have a flat surface. Use a piece of rubber hose and a clamp to clamp it over the bit so that 50% of the rubber is over the bit. This way you can use it like a hammer to hammer the rod in for you. The rubber hose keeps the bit centered over the ground rod.

Not trying to nit-pick but the "#6 or larger does not need to be in conduit" statement is not the whole requirement. The #6 wire needs to be free from exposure to physical damage, otherwise it needs to be run in conduit. The #6 is also allowed not to be in conduit if it's run along the surface of the building structure and it's securely fastened to the structure.
 
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James-W

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In the city where I live the code is 4 gauge ground wire, at least it is for a 200 amp service. This may be just a local code, I don't really know, but in any case I had to have two 10 foot long copper coated ground stakes pounded into the ground six feet apart. The city inspector made darn sure this was done and done correctly. Also, the ground wire has to be copper and buried at least 6 inches deep between the grounding rods. Stranded wire is preferred by the city inspector, but is not mandatory.
 
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sparky36000

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In the city where I live the code is 4 gauge ground wire, at least it is for a 200 amp service. This may be just a local code, I don't really know, but in any case I had to have two 10 foot long copper coated ground stakes pounded into the ground six feet apart. The city inspector made darn sure this was done and done correctly. Also, the ground wire has to be copper and buried at least 6 inches deep between the grounding rods. Stranded wire is preferred by the city inspector, but is not mandatory.

#4 GEC would be correct for 200 amp service. Did he say why he preferred stranded? Other than being easier to work with in #4?
 

Speedy Petey

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#4 GEC would be correct for 200 amp service. Did he say why he preferred stranded? Other than being easier to work with in #4?
The GEC to a ground rod(s) alone need only to be #6 regardless of service size.
A water bond, or a GEC to other than rod, pipe, or plate electrodes, are increased with service size.
 

matt151617

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New Jersey
I ran mine through the side of the garage and down behind the conduit. Can't even really notice it unless your're at the right angle.
 

sparky36000

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The GEC to a ground rod(s) alone need only to be #6 regardless of service size.
A water bond, or a GEC to other than rod, pipe, or plate electrodes, are increased with service size.

Oops, yes you are correct. :thumbup: Must be local code then or AHJ did like I did and forgot #6 is largest size needed for rods.
 
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James-W

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#4 GEC would be correct for 200 amp service. Did he say why he preferred stranded? Other than being easier to work with in #4?
He didn't say why he preferred it to be stranded, he just said he preferred it to be stranded but solid wire was acceptable. Maybe I should have asked him why, but it never really occurred to me to do that. I am not certain of this, but I think stranded wire will handle a little more current than a solid wire will. As to whether or not that would make a big difference is this particular situation, I guess it would be debatable.
 
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