Wiring Help - Band Saw

[AR-Trvlr]

I've got an 18" Grizzly Band Saw that I'm trying to wire for 110v. It was my fathers, but he had it running on 220v. I don't have 220v in my garage, and since the motor shows it's capable of both, I'd like to switch it.

I bought a new switch, and thought I had it wired correctly, but it's running backwards. I tried switching the black and red wires coming into the wiring block, but it made no difference.

Any advice?

 

[Bert_]

I can't really see the colors. But I'm assuming by red and black you mean 5 & 6 like the diagram says?

 

[nadogail]

Please let us know if swapping 5 & 6 fixed your problem.

 

[Norcal]

One of many reasons I will never buy Grizzly, they send over **** motors that are a non standard voltage, unless you count the COO, China. On the plus side I hear they have pretty good customer support.

 

[Terry D]

By switching the two incoming power leads will do nothing. You have to switch the leads of the start winding on a single phase motor to change rotation. Looks like there are 6 leads in the j-box on the motor. These leads should be numbered. Wire it up per the diagram for 120 volt. If it is going the wrong direction, reverse leads 5 and 6. So you will have 1-3-6 and 2-4-5

 

[PCustoms]

Why did you buy a new switch?

At the motor 1,3,5 should be tied together along with line 1, and 2,4,6 should be tied together with line 2.

If they are and it's still backwards swap 5 and 6

 

[AR-Trvlr]

I bought a new switch because the switch that it used for the 220v wiring wasn't working for the 110v wiring.

Switching 5 & 6 worked just fine.

My next problem is that it doesn't stay on when I hit the switch. It runs when I hold the switch down, but stops when I release the switch. I tried switching the locations of the wires from the plug and the ones going to the motor, but it made no difference. I also swapped sides (i.e. swapped the positions of the black and red wires) but that made no difference either.

Possibilities:
1) The switch is defective.
2) The motor is pulling too much load for the switch. The switch is rated for 1/2 hp, but the motor may be closer to 2 hp.
3) Something else.

 

[Terry D]

Is it a momentary switch

 

[wyliesdiesels]

I bought a new switch because the switch that it used for the 220v wiring wasn't working for the 110v wiring.

Switching 5 & 6 worked just fine.

My next problem is that it doesn't stay on when I hit the switch. It runs when I hold the switch down, but stops when I release the switch. I tried switching the locations of the wires from the plug and the ones going to the motor, but it made no difference. I also swapped sides (i.e. swapped the positions of the black and red wires) but that made no difference either.

Possibilities:
1) The switch is defective.
2) The motor is pulling too much load for the switch. The switch is rated for 1/2 hp, but the motor may be closer to 2 hp.
3) Something else.

yeah the switch is way too small for a 2HP load.

Your motor is definitely about 2HP as the FLC table lists 2HP as 24/12 for 115v/230v. FLA on The nameplate says 20a/10a...

So you need a 2HP rated switch.

is this the switch you have?

https://www.aliexpress.com/i/32968064011.html

Is it a momentary switch

if he has this switch, then it wouldn't be momentary as it has a start and stop button. The start would be latching.

https://www.aliexpress.com/i/32968064011.html

 

[dogdog]

The switch are usually double pole single throw, You do not normally need a new switch. test continuity 240V switch is as good as a 120V....

I would look into your wiring diagram at the 110V side as mention on post #6... which is 135 and 246 or 136 and 245 for rotating in a different direction.....

 

[PCustoms]

I bought a new switch because the switch that it used for the 220v wiring wasn't working for the 110v wiring.

Switching 5 & 6 worked just fine.

My next problem is that it doesn't stay on when I hit the switch. It runs when I hold the switch down, but stops when I release the switch. I tried switching the locations of the wires from the plug and the ones going to the motor, but it made no difference. I also swapped sides (i.e. swapped the positions of the black and red wires) but that made no difference either.

Possibilities:
1) The switch is defective.
2) The motor is pulling too much load for the switch. The switch is rated for 1/2 hp, but the motor may be closer to 2 hp.
3) Something else.

You didn't need to replace the switch, and your new one is the wrong switch.

Post a few pics of the one you removed and we can probably tell you how to wire it.

 

[AR-Trvlr]

Here's the switch that I removed. It does not seem to have a 110v option listed in the diagram or label.

Is there a simple 'light switch' type switch that will work? I'm guessing that a household light switch isn't rated for 20 amps, but there should be something easy to drop in to get this going.

The way the OEM box was mounted it was a pain to remove, and it will probably be just as much of a PITA to mount. If possible I'd like to work with the box I've mounted.

 

[AR-Trvlr]

Would this work?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KPEFL2I/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[exmaxima1]

You didn't need to replace the switch, and your new one is the wrong switch.....

+1
It didn't need a new one, but if it did I would have got a switch that covered the existing hole in the bandsaw. It would have fulfilled the electrical needs and looked a whole lot better:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KPEEPAW/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[PCustoms]

Would this work?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KPEFL2I/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Yes.

For $12 this is the way I'd go (in fact I just ordered one, my handsaw got dropped and switch is fubar), that grey box is NOT open and not worth putting back in as you state.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Here's the switch that I removed. It does not seem to have a 110v option listed in the diagram or label.

Is there a simple 'light switch' type switch that will work? I'm guessing that a household light switch isn't rated for 20 amps, but there should be something easy to drop in to get this going.

The way the OEM box was mounted it was a pain to remove, and it will probably be just as much of a PITA to mount. If possible I'd like to work with the box I've mounted.

ummm Thats not a switch. that is a motor starter with overloads and start stop buttons.

It doesnt have a 110v option because it is chinese and the coil is probably not changeable. If you could change the coil all you would do is run the hot leg through it.

Did you completely remove the motor starter? I wouldve left it there and just replaced the buttons if they werent working.

Any switch you use needs to be rated for the same or greater HP as the motor is rated for. The amp rating is meaningless.

You won't find a regular light snap switch rated for 2HP.

you could use a leviton ms-602

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AU8QVC/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[PCustoms]

^^^wylie I'm pretty sure that switch was NOT original. I've owned/used a bit or grizzly equipment and I've never seen one like that.

IIRC (let me know if I am wrong) OSHA requires a mag starter so that if power is lost and restored, the machine won't auto start. We always just bought the plug in modules, this looks like a homebrew conversion.

Back to the OP problem, that amazon switch is rated 2hp and looks just like the one on my grizzly jointer and my jet table saw .

 

[AR-Trvlr]

I’m happy to say that the new switch worked. Thanks for all the help!


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