Wiring layout for dimmable LED UFO lights

[Phydeauxman]

I am light my 52x56 pole building and have finally decided on the light I will use, a 150W UFO LED light. I intend to use 12 of these and intend to put them all on a single 20A circuit with a single switch and a single/separate dimmer switch. Looking for ideas from those that have done something similar as to the best wiring plan. My switch will be almost on the opposite corner of the building from the breaker panel with all of the lights between the panel and the switch. I was thinking of doing the following:
- Coming out of the panel to the lights
- Splitting off the black wire from the white wire
- Connecting the white wire to each of the lights
- Taking the black wire to the switch
- Using a 3 conductor wire to bring the black as well as the Gray and Purple wires from the dimmer back to the lights.

Any feedback on this approach would be greatly appreciated.

 

[mcbane]

I’m wiring a similar project now. Applicable code is NEC725 but not everyone interprets that code the same. I wound up using MC/PCS cable with the low voltage wires connected in a separate box at each light (just a handy box connected to main box with a chase ****** and nut). That is the approach my electric inspector recommended.


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[cybrdyke]

I am light my 52x56 pole building and have finally decided on the light I will use, a 150W UFO LED light. I intend to use 12 of these and intend to put them all on a single 20A circuit with a single switch and a single/separate dimmer switch. Looking for ideas from those that have done something similar as to the best wiring plan. My switch will be almost on the opposite corner of the building from the breaker panel with all of the lights between the panel and the switch. I was thinking of doing the following:
- Coming out of the panel to the lights
- Splitting off the black wire from the white wire
- Connecting the white wire to each of the lights
- Taking the black wire to the switch
- Using a 3 conductor wire to bring the black as well as the Gray and Purple wires from the dimmer back to the lights.

Any feedback on this approach would be greatly appreciated.

I dont completely understand your plan, but here's some thoughts anyway...
Why a separate switch and dimmer? Why not one device like the Eaton SF10P?
Your last bullet is confusing. The black doesn't go to the dimmer if it's a separate device.
I'll cut to the chase. The easiest way to connect the wiring of dimming highbays is to use a Lutron Vive 0-10V Powpak. You can put it up in the ceiling where the junction box for your lighting circuits is. Then you run all the purples and grays plus the blacks and whites to it.
Then you use a Lutron Pico, either in a wall mount, or just in your pocket for the controller. You can put it anywhere.
Good luck,
CD

 

[Phydeauxman]

I dont completely understand your plan, but here's some thoughts anyway...
Why a separate switch and dimmer? Why not one device like the Eaton SF10P?
Your last bullet is confusing. The black doesn't go to the dimmer if it's a separate device.
I'll cut to the chase. The easiest way to connect the wiring of dimming highbays is to use a Lutron Vive 0-10V Powpak. You can put it up in the ceiling where the junction box for your lighting circuits is. Then you run all the purples and grays plus the blacks and whites to it.
Then you use a Lutron Pico, either in a wall mount, or just in your pocket for the controller. You can put it anywhere.
Good luck,
CD

Thanks for you reply and helpful information. I was going to go with a separate switch and dimmer so that I can put all of the lights on a single switch and a single dimmer. The dimmer I was looking at can only handle up to 720W if it also carries the load but I will have 12 lights of 150W each. If I used the dimmer just to dim...I can put up to 15 lights on it.

I am assuming you were referring to this dimmer module:

Lutron RMJS-8T-DV-B Dimming Electrical-Distribution

Looking at the documentation for this unit...looks like it is a load carrying dimmer. Not sure I could put all 12 of my lights on there. Also not sure of the distance between the Pico switch and the module. Mine would likely be separated by about 25 ft.

 

[cybrdyke]

Thanks for you reply and helpful information. I was going to go with a separate switch and dimmer so that I can put all of the lights on a single switch and a single dimmer. The dimmer I was looking at can only handle up to 720W if it also carries the load but I will have 12 lights of 150W each. If I used the dimmer just to dim...I can put up to 15 lights on it.

I am assuming you were referring to this dimmer module:

Lutron RMJS-8T-DV-B Dimming Electrical-Distribution

Looking at the documentation for this unit...looks like it is a load carrying dimmer. Not sure I could put all 12 of my lights on there. Also not sure of the distance between the Pico switch and the module. Mine would likely be separated by about 25 ft.

You would need 2 of them since they're 8A max. You can operate them both with one Pico or you can operate them separately with different Picos. You can pair up to 10 Picos to each PowPak, so you can have one at each entry location and one for the pocket or keychain. You would also have the ability to put in a wireless motion sensor or two.
Your comment about the dimmer you were looking at sounds fishy to me. What is the make/model? I'll have a look.
CD

 

[Phydeauxman]

You would need 2 of them since they're 8A max. You can operate them both with one Pico or you can operate them separately with different Picos. You can pair up to 10 Picos to each PowPak, so you can have one at each entry location and one for the pocket or keychain. You would also have the ability to put in a wireless motion sensor or two.
Your comment about the dimmer you were looking at sounds fishy to me. What is the make/model? I'll have a look.
CD

Thanks for the additional info. Think I am going to stay the course with my original plan. 2 of those switches is way more than I want to spend for a dimmer.