Wiring lights best practices

[jpcjguy]

So since drilling trusses is not happening, when wiring for lights do you go back to a junction box and tie lights together that way (left side of attached pic) or route down every truss bay to chain them together(right side of pic)?

What is considered best practices?

Based on the visual tool that is suggested by Platonic_Solid, I will need about 5 rows of 3 lights for that area.

 

[larry4406]

Our electricians chain them as you described. When trusses are used, wire use goes up as drilling is verboten.

 

[Zeke]

On the non-decked part of the ceiling you can run a 1 x 4 perpendicular and on top of the chords and staple the wire on top if that saves any significant material.

 

[klassenl]

It would be easier to run in and out of every light as opposed to going back to a junction box.

 

[jpcjguy]

On the non-decked part of the ceiling you can run a 1 x 4 perpendicular and on top of the chords and staple the wire on top if that saves any significant material.

Sorry - I should have added that the whole garage will be drywalled

 

[jpcjguy]

It would be easier to run in and out of every light as opposed to going back to a junction box.

The thought of the junction box is for 3 lights "in a row", so for example, 3 "rows" of three (9 lights) would only be 3 wires back to the junction box.

 

[Terry D]

If they are all coming on together, and (9) will not overload the circuit. I don't see a reason for any j-box. Come up out of the switch and daisy chain them all together. Since you cant drill the trusses and it looks like a 2nd floor is going down, then you will have to cross over the top of the trusses behind the knee walls to get from row to row

 

[jpcjguy]

If they are all coming on together, and (9) will not overload the circuit. I don't see a reason for any j-box. Come up out of the switch and daisy chain them all together. Since you cant drill the trusses and it looks like a 2nd floor is going down, then you will have to cross over the top of the trusses behind the knee walls to get from row to row

That was the original plan (right side of the pic), but was just looking for options, best practices. Thanks!

 

[yatg]

If there's ever a chance you want to switch the lights in a different pattern other than all on, i.e. only the centers, or front row, then run individual cables to each light back to a central junction box. The cable from the switches also end in that jbox and you can adjust the pattern by connecting the corresponding lights to the switches.

 

[jpcjguy]

If there's ever a chance you want to switch the lights in a different pattern other than all on, i.e. only the centers, or front row, then run individual cables to each light back to a central junction box. The cable from the switches also end in that jbox and you can adjust the pattern by connecting the corresponding lights to the switches.

excellent point! As an alternative, I am looking at using dimmable LED 4' lights so I have more control of the output.

 

[Shiftless]

If there's ever a chance you want to switch the lights in a different pattern other than all on, i.e. only the centers, or front row, then run individual cables to each light back to a central junction box. The cable from the switches also end in that jbox and you can adjust the pattern by connecting the corresponding lights to the switches.

Somehow I recall a guy installing separate switches for EACH ONE of his lights. I suppose that would give ultimate control but it would make me crazy having to hit so many switches to get full brightness. Might appeal to somebody’s OCD.

 

[u2slow]

If there's ever a chance you want to switch the lights in a different pattern other than all on, i.e. only the centers, or front row, then run individual cables to each light back to a central junction box. The cable from the switches also end in that jbox and you can adjust the pattern by connecting the corresponding lights to the switches.

Agreed. I'd do the same.

This kind of thinking is more common in commercial/industrial contexts.

 

[pbon]

I put my 20 dimmable 4’ LED on 4 switches. Really, 2 would have been fine. One is for a single light to have minimal lighting but my motion sensing garage door opener lights are a pretty good substitute. And then I have the front lights, rear lights and lights in a small bump out area. But front and rear would have been fine.