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Wiring lights - wire run - connector boxes?

The_Tango

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Joined
Dec 12, 2010
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41
Location
Knoxville, TN
Forgive me if I don't do a very good job of explaining this. I am wiring 4 rows of 4 double fluorescent lights - on 4 switches. Is it better to have 4 connectors boxes (one for each light or 1 connector box with leads running to each switched light row?

The building has 2x4 trusses - would it be too hot to run the wiring along the top 2x4 of the trusses?

Side note: I will be adding R-30 insulation.

Never said I could draw.
 

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Charles (in GA)

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Jan 11, 2006
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50 mi south of Atlanta
Lighting is low draw, wire is getting expensive, jumping from one fixture to the next to the next in each row is a good way to save quite a bit of wire. Most fluorescent fixtures are designed to have the wire connections made inside them, and only need the proper strain relief where the wire exits the fixture. Romex in, Romex out.

Charles
 

spongerich

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Apr 17, 2010
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2,339
Location
Monroe, NY
^^^ With the cost of Romex these days, I'd be inclined to put them all on 1 switch (maybe 2). They draw very little power. When I redid the upstairs in my barn, I ended up putting everything on 1 switch. Saved a ton of wire and time.
 
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The_Tango

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Dec 12, 2010
Messages
41
Location
Knoxville, TN
I am going with 4 switches - so when the door is up I won't turn on those lights that are covered by the door. Or when I am going out to get something from the garage I would only turn on one row (just enough light to see).
 

LEVE

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Jun 23, 2008
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On the Willapa
Just a note here... I've run my lights on two different circuits. If there's a problem in one circuit, and it blows the breaker, then still I've got light from the other circuit.

I'm also going to install a dawn-to-dusk motion detector flood light, inside the garage, on one wall. That way I don't have to turn anything on when I walk in at night, like to get out the car, and it will turn off after a minute, or so. On my deck the flood light bulbs have been replaced with 70watt (20 watt consumption) CFL flood-light bulbs. The give enough light without glaring. These bulbs will be in the inside flood-light fixture.
 

CADPoint

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Jan 31, 2011
Messages
155
Location
WSW of **** City
Yes #1, less joints, less troubles, less trouble shooting, besides no nasty box to visit in the R valve stuff and or no ugly box viewable in the high ceiling. I'm assuming flushed mounted lights to the ceiling!

Now #1 can not be used for your motion light, the lights are slaves to the switch(the power is in the switch box-as I suggested).

Run your motion-light power off of a recptacle circuit.
 
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