Wiring On/Off switch for 220v 5hp Compressor

[TTA89]

I read through some of the other recent posts about this but I'm still a little confused on what I would need. I don't have the compressor yet but I'm planning on buying the 2 Stage Harbor Freight.

It says its a 5hp and requires a 40amp breaker.

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-to...n-165-psi-two-stage-air-compressor-93274.html



So I plan to run run 8/2 and put a 40amp breaker in the panel. I'm going to also pick up one of the A/C disconnects I see a lot people using to mount next to the compressor so I have a way to shut it off there.

I want to put the compressor under the stairs in the corner and probably build a wall with some sound deadener around it. I would love to be able to walk into the garage, turn on the lights and compressor at the same time... And as such, turn off the compressor and lights when I leave since I'm only really in there on the weekends.

Is there a way to use a normal type light switch or something like would look nice when the drywall is up for this near my light switches? Here is a picture to show what I mean.

So would I run romex from the panel to the switch, then to the disconnect under the stairs then to the compressor under the stairs?

 

[Norcal]

Your compressor does not have a magnetic starter so a contactor or 60A disco would be required, a contactor is the best solution, on my phone so will leave the details for later.

 

[joe_padavano]

Get a remote controlled switch like this one. There are many on the market.

http://www.smarthomeusa.com/remote-controlled-heavy-duty-switch-60-amp-240vac-relay/

It's just a relay. This particular unit uses a 110v coil to pull in contacts rated to carry 220v at 60A.

 

[TTA89]

I just ran across that!

Looks like I would just need an appliance module: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013V58HU/?tag=atomicindus08-20

and a wall switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035YRCR2/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Would it really be that easy?

 

[TTA89]

Or even better, an outlet that can be controlled by the switch. Sweeet!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013V1SRY/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[TTA89]

And I just realized even better than that... I can just run a normal wall switch that powers the 120v outlet for the box with existing stuff I have since the walls are still open...and maybe get a switch with a built in light that comes on when its on. So if shut off the lights, I'll notice that the wall switch is lit up and compressor is still on.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Your compressor does not have a magnetic starter so a contactor or 60A disco would be required, a contactor is the best solution, on my phone so will leave the details for later.

TTA89- Just a note:

A contactor is nice, but is not required. The operator (pressure switch on the compressor) is rated for the compressor load. Just bring the power from the breaker panel to the disconnect you want to install on the wall, then from the disconnect directly to the operator on the compressor.

Tommy

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

I wouldnt install a compressor in an area where it doesnt have access to plenty of fresh air to keep it cool,That and youll be sucking hot/humid air into the compressor to supply your air tools if you lock it in a closet like that.

 

[alfredeneuman]

TTA89- Just a note:
Just bring the power from the breaker panel to the disconnect you want to install on the wall, then from the disconnect directly to the operator on the compressor.
Tommy

That won't fulfill the OP's wishes.
He wants to mount a switch that looks like his light switch next to his light switch to control the compressor.
In order to do that he would require a contactor.

 

[mytimeyet]

This is working for me.

 

[TTA89]

Get a remote controlled switch like this one. There are many on the market.

http://www.smarthomeusa.com/remote-controlled-heavy-duty-switch-60-amp-240vac-relay/

It's just a relay. This particular unit uses a 110v coil to pull in contacts rated to carry 220v at 60A.

It looks like its not really rated for 60amps but for 30amp. Booo

"Two Pole Relay Contacts rated for 30 Amps AC (combined maximum of 30 Amp total current)"

 

[SiGmA_X]

I wouldnt install a compressor in an area where it doesnt have access to plenty of fresh air to keep it cool,That and youll be sucking hot/humid air into the compressor to supply your air tools if you lock it in a closet like that.

You want to put an intake hole to the outside and a covered filter.

 

[justsam]

I would use a contractor suitable for the current and HP of the motor. Use a 120vac coil on the contractor. Your pilot lighted wall switch than controls the contractor. Run romex from wall switch to compressor/contractor location.

I would not use the Elk device unless you plan some form of Home Automation. Some Power line carrier protocols are impaired by GFCI which you will have in your garage. Zwave is all RF, but I would still hard wire since you have open walls.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

I read through some of the other recent posts about this but I'm still a little confused on what I would need. I don't have the compressor yet but I'm planning on buying the 2 Stage Harbor Freight.

It says its a 5hp and requires a 40amp breaker.

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-to...n-165-psi-two-stage-air-compressor-93274.html



So I plan to run run 8/2 and put a 40amp breaker in the panel. I'm going to also pick up one of the A/C disconnects I see a lot people using to mount next to the compressor so I have a way to shut it off there.

I want to put the compressor under the stairs in the corner and probably build a wall with some sound deadener around it. I would love to be able to walk into the garage, turn on the lights and compressor at the same time... And as such, turn off the compressor and lights when I leave since I'm only really in there on the weekends.

Is there a way to use a normal type light switch or something like would look nice when the drywall is up for this near my light switches? Here is a picture to show what I mean.

So would I run romex from the panel to the switch, then to the disconnect under the stairs then to the compressor under the stairs?

Since the compressor will not be within sight of the panel, a disconnect is required.

In order to use a light switch as a shut off means, u would need a contactor or mag starter with a 120v coil.

#8/2 nm-b is the correct wire for a 5HP compressor. Mount the disconnect on the wall then run flex with #10 THWN from the D/c to the compressor. It is not code permissible to use an outlet unless its rated for 5hp or more....

Get a remote controlled switch like this one. There are many on the market.

http://www.smarthomeusa.com/remote-controlled-heavy-duty-switch-60-amp-240vac-relay/

It's just a relay. This particular unit uses a 110v coil to pull in contacts rated to carry 220v at 60A.

I wouldnt use that brand. The specs are questionable.

"U/L recognized" ??? Huh?

U/L doesnt recognize anything. They list.

Or even better, an outlet that can be controlled by the switch. Sweeet!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013V1SRY/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Unless the outlet is rated for 5HP or more, the compressor must be hardwired.

This is working for me.

Dont know how thats working for u.

U do realize that the line and load on that diagram are reversed? T1 and T2 is for the motor and L1 and L2 is for the line input.

 

[TTA89]

Thanks for all the comments. I spent some time reading and I think this is what I need?

**Fixed Broken Link

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Z0RLL2/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Then I can just wire 120 from my wall switch to "switch" the power on and off?

 

[SiGmA_X]

I too have a 5hp that I want to remote power on/off - but mine will be in a detached structure with a subpanel that will also be powering an AC unit and some lighting. Anyone have suggestions for that sort of setup?

Sorry for asking in your thread, TTA89, but its reasonably related!

 

[md21722]

I would buy a real magnetic starter for $129.99. Then you can wire your pressure switch and the ON/OFF service switch in series and call it good. It will be easier on the pressure switch too. Those cheap pressure switches will probably burn up switching a 5 HP motor. Also, unless you somehow get an "old stock unit" the current Harbor Freight 5 HP air compressor say they are dual stage but they are not. They are single stage. You can go to the store and see, all three cylinders dump directly into the tank. The old ones were ABAC dual stage pumps. Those are the ones that were well rated. Disconnects are cheap at the local big box hardware stores. Like $6? As wylie said no plugs allowed - NEMA connectors are usually not rated over 2-3 HP. With motors you go by the HP not the amps. The reason relates to arcing on disconnect. A standard NEMA plug will not protect you from the arc if you use it as an emergency disconnect.

 

[Norcal]

I would buy a real magnetic starter for $129.99. Then you can wire your pressure switch and the ON/OFF service switch in series and call it good. It will be easier on the pressure switch too. Those cheap pressure switches will probably burn up switching a 5 HP motor. Also, unless you somehow get an "old stock unit" the current Harbor Freight 5 HP air compressor say they are dual stage but they are not. They are single stage. You can go to the store and see, all three cylinders dump directly into the tank. The old ones were ABAC dual stage pumps. Those are the ones that were well rated. Disconnects are cheap at the local big box hardware stores. Like $6? As wylie said no plugs allowed - NEMA connectors are usually not rated over 2-3 HP. With motors you go by the HP not the amps. The reason relates to arcing on disconnect. A standard NEMA plug will not protect you from the arc if you use it as an emergency disconnect.

A $129.99 mag starter would not be a "real" one, it's cheap ChiCom POS.


There is UL listed and UL recognized, but a UL recognized product is merely a product that is recognized by UL for use in UL listed equipment, it would need to be evaluated by UL ($$$$$$) to be acceptable.

 

[md21722]

A $129.99 mag starter would not be a "real" one, it's cheap ChiCom POS.


There is UL listed and UL recognized, but a UL recognized product is merely a product that is recognized by UL for use in UL listed equipment, it would need to be evaluated by UL ($$$$$$) to be acceptable.

I thought Square D made reasonable mag starters? They are available for $129.99. Please let me know if I am wrong!

 

[matt_i]

I would buy a real magnetic starter for $129.99

If I spent more than $60 for a Nema-0 or Nema-1 starter, good-used I'd be a lot closer to broke! Even an IEC-rated starter shouldn't cost you that much. Check Automation Direct for new stuff. Even a "definite purpose" contactor will fit the bill. Its not sophisticated but is widely available. WW Grainger, McMaster, online....

 

[joe_padavano]

It looks like its not really rated for 60amps but for 30amp. Booo

"Two Pole Relay Contacts rated for 30 Amps AC (combined maximum of 30 Amp total current)"

Good catch. I wasn't paying that close attention. In any case, that's an example. Many, many such relays exist. No need to reinvent anything.

 

[TTA89]

Also, unless you somehow get an "old stock unit" the current Harbor Freight 5 HP air compressor say they are dual stage but they are not. They are single stage. You can go to the store and see, all three cylinders dump directly into the tank. The old ones were ABAC dual stage pumps. Those are the ones that were well rated.

Booo.....

Disconnects are cheap at the local big box hardware stores. Like $6? As wylie said no plugs allowed - NEMA connectors are usually not rated over 2-3 HP. With motors you go by the HP not the amps. The reason relates to arcing on disconnect. A standard NEMA plug will not protect you from the arc if you use it as an emergency disconnect.

I always planned to have a disconnect... Does it matter which way I wire this? Contactor first or disconnect first?

 

[LS6 Tommy]

The disconnect must interrupt all power to the machine, so disconnect first.

Tommy

 

[LS6 Tommy]

That won't fulfill the OP's wishes.
He wants to mount a switch that looks like his light switch next to his light switch to control the compressor.
In order to do that he would require a contactor.

:tard: Duh. What was I thinking about?

Tommy

 

[md21722]

The disconnect must interrupt all power to the machine, so disconnect first.

Tommy

^^ This

 

[alfredeneuman]

Then I can just wire 120 from my wall switch to "switch" the power on and off?

No you can't.
The disconnect must interrupt all voltages sources to the machine, including the controls.

 

[SiGmA_X]

If I spent more than $60 for a Nema-0 or Nema-1 starter, good-used I'd be a lot closer to broke! Even an IEC-rated starter shouldn't cost you that much. Check Automation Direct for new stuff. Even a "definite purpose" contactor will fit the bill. Its not sophisticated but is widely available. WW Grainger, McMaster, online....

I checked Grainger, for a 5hp I was seeing $300+. Can you help with a link?

E: I found the SquareD 50amp contactor mentioned above for $100.

http://www.supplyhouse.com/Square-D...D1EbIO1FYSS3jdN8nFX3nlTM4Oam270DoVBoCls_w_wcB

What type of enclosure would I stick this in?

 

[md21722]

I checked Grainger, for a 5hp I was seeing $300+. Can you help with a link?

E: I found the SquareD 50amp contactor mentioned above for $100.

http://www.supplyhouse.com/Square-D...D1EbIO1FYSS3jdN8nFX3nlTM4Oam270DoVBoCls_w_wcB

What type of enclosure would I stick this in?

Square D 5 HP single phase magnetic starter with enclosure:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ST122001AJ-...08-240-VOLT-/272131202090?hash=item3f5c489c2a

I bought 2 of these. They ship UPS Ground same day you place the order unless its late in the day.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Grainger is overpriced for EVERYTHING. I never buy anything there.

Check platt or another distributor.

 

[SiGmA_X]

That looks perfect. Thanks.

What is the general suggestion to control a device in an outbuilding?

 

[justsam]

No you can't.
The disconnect must interrupt all voltages sources to the machine, including the controls.

I was not aware of this requirement. That being the case you may want a 240vac coil on contactor lest you need to run neutral down to disconnect if 120 vac coil, controlled by wall switch.

 

[md21722]

That looks perfect. Thanks.

What is the general suggestion to control a device in an outbuilding?

And you're in Portland so you could probably have it tomorrow!

 

[md21722]

I was not aware of this requirement. That being the case you may want a 240vac coil on contactor lest you need to run neutral down to disconnect if 120 vac coil, controlled by wall switch.

The Square D contractor I linked has a 240 VAC coil.

 

[SiGmA_X]

And you're in Portland so you could probably have it tomorrow!

Very likely! I emailed them directly to see what the cost would be if I picked up and paid cash, too.

Maybe an RF controlled outlet would be my best bet to control the compressor/discharge in my shed from my garage. It would be very easy, at least...

 

[sammer]

Something like this should work for you.

http://www.alliedelec.com/square-d-8910dp41v02/70060195/

You'd still need a disconnect on your 240 input, but would be able to turn your compressor on and off with a common wall switch.

oop's just saw the one in my link is only 30A

sam

 

[TractorJeff]

That "smarthome" contactor in a box maybe the device is rate for 60 amps but the wires and terminals are not!

 

[alfredeneuman]

If you're going to use a 240 Volt coil, make sure to use a switch rated for the voltage.
There are switches rated 120/277V that look just like the 120 volt only ones.

 

[TTA89]

Something like this should work for you.

http://www.alliedelec.com/square-d-8910dp41v02/70060195/

You'd still need a disconnect on your 240 input, but would be able to turn your compressor on and off with a common wall switch.

oop's just saw the one in my link is only 30A

sam

Whats the difference between that one and this one on Amazon for 9 bucks in my previous post?

**Fixed Broken Link

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Z0RLL2/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[LS6 Tommy]

No you can't.
The disconnect must interrupt all voltages sources to the machine, including the controls.

Not so. Controls are fed separately on equipment all the time. If the OP does it that way there should be a label stating something like "CAUTION. Some circuits on this equipment are energized even when the main power is disconnected".

Tommy

 

[SiGmA_X]

Whats the difference between that one and this one on Amazon for 9 bucks in my previous post?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Your link is broken, this was what you're going for I believe: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Z0RLL2/?tag=atomicindus08-20

It isn't actually UL Listed. "UL Approved" means nothing. I think that is the problem, right, forum?

http://packardonline.com/Shop/Product/2514