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Wiring Schematic Critique

stealthmagic27

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Guys, looking for input on my layout. This is a single bay with attached mudroom...Thanks in advance!

Red Circuit, Gfi protecting the other receptacle load.

Blue Circuit, 12-2 to the receptacle then 14 to power the lights. Is this correct? or do I run 12 gauge on the entire circuit even to the lights?

Green Circuit, GFI 20 amp, protected load is GFi and another duplex.

Orange Circuit, Used for a heater 20 amp 6-20r connector

Pink Circuit, All lighting and ceiling fan 14-2

Schematic_zps90e7e462.jpg
 
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pattenp

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Whether you run 14 or 12 for the fan and light circuit is based on the load. Have you estimated the load that will be on the circuit(s)?

What's the outlet in the center of the garage between the 2 sets of lights that's on the blue 20A circuit coming right off the panel? You don't show it as GFI protected.
 
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Stuff

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You can do 12-2 to the receptacle and then 14-2 to the lights but have to have circuit on 15 amp breaker.
 

pattenp

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You can do 12-2 to the receptacle and then 14-2 to the lights but have to have circuit on 15 amp breaker.

I believe he was asking about the wire size for the 2 separate circuits. I hope he was not thinking of continuing off of a 20A #12 circuit with #14 to the lights.
 

justsam

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It is always easy to spend someone else's money but I would just do the whole thing in 12 gauge. The incremental cost is minor, for such short runs.

Do not begin a circuit with 12, and finish with 14, which was your question on blue circuit. Doing so makes it a 15 Amp circuit as has been mentioned.

Looks like the pink circuit could be 14, but I would just stick to 12. All breakers are the same then too.

Make sure your switch locations are convenient, not behind open doors etc. Run 12/3 if three way switch. Do not use any switch legs only, i.e. neutral in every switch box.
 
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stealthmagic27

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Thank you for the responses guys!

This was obviously a rough layout. The plug between the lights will be gfi also, and id like it to be a 20 amp plug even though it will most likely be used for a drop light. So I will finish the circuit with 12-2 instead of making it a 15amp. Like it was said cost is really not much which im not worried about, just want to do it right and have it practical.

Load on the lighting and fan circuit isn't much at all, all lights are 10 watt LED's for a total of 60watts, and fan is pretty small.

I already ran 14/3 for the 3 way switches, 1 of the switches in the mudroom is actually a 3 way motion switch. Used the motion sensor as this room is used as the main entry for the house, it'll turn on as soon as the door opens.
 
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woodzy

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I just built a house and I wanted to use #12 for everything with 20 amp breakers (bigger is better!!). My sons are electricians and they said I was nuts!! - working with #12 wire is a pain and I should use #14 (15 amp) for everything possible except where code requires #12 (20 amp) such as kitchen, laundry, garage, dinning room...

I talked to the building inspector and told him this story and he said that my kids have real world experience and he always would run #14 (15 amp) first and only use #12 (20 amp) where required.

If you search the internet, you will find a wattage schedule for every type of outlet, appliance, light and you design you wiring based on this schedule and go to town.

So, just finished and I will say, the #14 is so much easier to work with and a lot easier to stuff back into the boxes. I even purchased the extra deep ones which make it easier.

Just my two cents.

Also - if you use a 20 amp breaker, then all wires down stream need to be #12 - period..

Also, you can save money if you use dual breakers and share the neutral on long runs.
 
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stealthmagic27

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Hi Woodzy, I appreciate the response. 12 is a tiny bit tougher to work with, but at this point I have used 12 gauge for almost my entire house lol except for some lighting circuits. Im going to re evaluate some of the circuits and wattage schedule like you said and go from there. thanks again!

Anyone have any pointers on things they would wire differently or add/change to the mudroom/garage?
 

Mustang51js

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You shouldn't have a gfi outlet in the ceiling,put it on a gfi breaker if you want them gfi,unless they are within reach without a ladder
 
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pattenp

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If you already ran 14/3 for the switches then you are limited to 15A for the circuit that the switches serve. The lights and outlets should be 2 separate circuits,
 

ez-duzit

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It appears you have given little thought to minimizing voltage drop or conserving materials. Similarly, daisy-chaining so many fixtures--is that really allowed? And criss-crossing the room a couple times, like the green circuit? Fan and lights on separate circuits. Not sure what's going on with GFI's feeding GFI's?
 
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stealthmagic27

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The lights and fan in the mud room are on a separate circuit and will be 15 amp. Why can't you daisy chain lights, that's why I'm here, to ask :). The GFI in the mud room will not exist, it will be a quad receptacle protected by the gfi in the garage, my fault for the error.

Mustang, thanks I didn't know that, I'm going to put the gfi in the mud room and protect the receptacle for the garage door opener from the load side. :) I'll use a gfi breaker for the receptacle on the ceiling between the lights.
 
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stealthmagic27

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Also what's going on with the last two terminals on my panel? did someone modify this or are these spots for a certain type of breaker.

IMAG0828_zpspxexgsjd.jpg
 
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stealthmagic27

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Model number is E0816ML1125ML. I took that number right off the box and bus terminal assy.
 
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pattenp

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The lights and fan in the mud room are on a separate circuit and will be 15 amp. Why can't you daisy chain lights, that's why I'm here, to ask :). The GFI in the mud room will not exist, it will be a quad receptacle protected by the gfi in the garage, my fault for the error.

Mustang, thanks I didn't know that, I'm going to put the gfi in the mud room and protect the receptacle for the garage door opener from the load side. :) I'll use a gfi breaker for the receptacle on the ceiling between the lights.

You can put the lights on one circuit or as you say daisy chain. I missed where it was said that you can't. Not a problem as long as the load doesn't exceed 80% of the circuit ampcapcity.
 
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stealthmagic27

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That's what I was wondering, ok kind of weird but the door says E0612Ml 1125. Why the he'll does the door say that but the bus terminal says E08?
 
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stealthmagic27

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Definitely mismatched, although I cant find any information on the E0612 part number only the E0816
 
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stealthmagic27

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So found out that the "cut" stabs are simply spots where you cant put a breaker. So this panel is not an 8 position box but it is a 6 position 12 circuit panel. every spot is allowable for a tandem hence the 12 circuit.
 

wyliesdiesels

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Weird panel. Why even have a buss bar there then? Thats such a waste of copper!

Is this garage detached? If so u cant have more than 6 breaker handles without a disconnect.
 
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stealthmagic27

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Yeah definitely weird! Garage is attached with a mud room in between. Plan is to upgrade the service to 150 amp in the house, then take the existing panel and putting that in the garage.
 

Mustang51js

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Those last spots are for tandom single pole breakers, they have a shallow slot compared to a normal breaker so they will only fit in those bottom 4 slots
 
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stealthmagic27

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Not even tandems will reach those prongs. The box is a 6 breaker 12 circuit box from what I found, I can put a tandem in every spot cause of the V notches in the stabs but those last 2 that look "cut."
 
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