Wiring Shop Lights

[Throttle Jockey]

Ok, so I am new to the forums. I have been reading through information for a few months and bought some shop lights for an unfinished portion of my basement and my garage. I purchased the Maxlite LSS2XT8USE4803 lights based off of recommendations that I saw on this forum but I have a few questions about installing them. I have searched the forum and googled but haven’t been able to find answers to my questions so I am posting asking for some help. I am sure this has been discussed before but I failed to find it.


1. In the garage, which is finished with Sheetrock and paint I am planning on removing the existing 3x lightbulbs (porcelain fixture that screws right into a round junction box) on the ceiling and installing a shop light in each location by hardwiring it. I would like to mount the lights directly to the ceiling but screwing right into the stud. If I do this then the light will not be directly on top of the box. I purchased some plastic covers for the boxes but did not know if I can drill a hole in the cover and run the wire through a knockout in the side of the light? If I do are there any requirements to protect the couple inches of exposed wire? I I placed the lights right over the cover and punch out the knockout on the top of the light do I need to install a grommet or anything on the cover for the junction box or on the base of the light?

2. In the basement which is not finished (bare joists) I have the same light bulbs and would like to replace them with shop lights as well. Can I mount the fixture directly to the joist? I was planning on installing a cover and routing the wire through the cover and into either the side or top of the light through a knockout. What do I need to do to protect the wiring if anything?

 

[theoldwizard1]

Too much work ! Remove the porcelain fixture and install an Octagon Cover for Duplex Receptacle and duplex outlet. Plug in.

 

[Innovate1]

When running the wire into the fixture if you use a knockout a standard NM clamp like you would use at an electrical box is normally used. They make the older screw type with either a large nut or some just snap in and plastic snap in ones.

If the knockout is directly over a box they also make a plastic snap in piece that is just a ring to cover the edge of the metal with a hole in the middle - no clamp. May not be technically required but helps protect the wire.

 

[Innovate1]

Depending on where you are and code enforcement, current requirement in my area is for all receptacles to be GFCI and be resettable from the floor (you can't just put them in the ceiling). I am hardwiring the lights and the receptacles for the GDO and cord reel, which are too high to reach, are on circuits that have a CFCI at a reachable level in the circuit before the higher receptacles.

 

[Throttle Jockey]

Theoldwizard - That would work but my lights are designed to be hard wired and do not have plugs one them. Thanks

 

[Throttle Jockey]

Innovate1 - ok, the clamp makes sense, that would be easy enough to get and install. The light has loose individual wiring in it, I was going to run that wiring back into the existing box. Do i need to instead run the ROMEX into the light instead?

Do you know if there is a code issue mounting the light directly to the ceiling joist in an unfinished basement? It looks like there is no issue if there is sheetrock but I cannot figure out in instances where there is not sheetrock.

The wiring is existing for this installation, I am just changing from light bulbs to shop lights so I think I should be good from a code perspective on GFCI etc. Thanks for your help

 

[Innovate1]

I would say you can put the fixture wires into the box or pull the NM into the light. Or splice them either place if you need more wire. Since you are mounting to a box and all the wires/splices stay in the box or fixture I would go with the grommet type insert. Something like this:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-2-in-Snap-In-Bushing-10-Pack-27251/202077082

If they hole isn't too sharp you might skip the bushing as I don't think the bushing is required. Others may correct me...

If the wires are exposed between the light and box then you at least need to run NM with clamps at each end and some places may require more protection. You can get box covers with knockouts in them but I think those are only in metal.

 

[curliejones]

Too much work ! Remove the porcelain fixture and install an Octagon Cover for Duplex Receptacle and duplex outlet. Plug in.

I 2nd that suggestion. I built a new shop and wired wall switches to four square boxes mounted to ceiling joists and rafters. All my overhead fixtures ( two and four bulb T8 fluorescent) simply plug in. If I have any failures down the road, or if I feel LED is an upgrade, its unplug and plug in. All the receptacles face downward so collecting shop dust should be negligible.

 

[Throttle Jockey]

My lights are setup to screw right into the ceiling for mounting, which should work well for my application so I don't have to worry about them being in the way or swinging if it is windy outside and the garage door is open. Does it violate any codes to mount straight to the floor joists in my unfinished basement?

 

[Innovate1]

My lights are setup to screw right into the ceiling for mounting, which should work well for my application so I don't have to worry about them being in the way or swinging if it is windy outside and the garage door is open. Does it violate any codes to mount straight to the floor joists in my unfinished basement?

I don't see why that wouldn't be to code. Sounds fine.

 

[alfredeneuman]

I 2nd that suggestion. I built a new shop and wired wall switches to four square boxes mounted to ceiling joists and rafters. All my overhead fixtures ( two and four bulb T8 fluorescent) simply plug in. If I have any failures down the road, or if I feel LED is an upgrade, its unplug and plug in. All the receptacles face downward so collecting shop dust should be negligible.

Don't forget that all receptacles (even ones for lighting) must have GFI protection located in a readily accessible location. (no ladders)
That leaves 2 options; a GFI breaker or a faceless GFI mounted ahead of the switches.

 

[sparky 1971]

If you try to mount to the joist and leave the box exposed right next to it, it's going to look like ****. Why not turn the fixtures 90 degrees and use it to cover the box. That way, you will catch two joists to screw to and cover the existing box. If turning the fixture is out of the question, I would just mount the fixture over the box and use two 3/16" or 1/4" X 3" toggle bolts to secure it. Those fixtures don't weigh enough to even think twice about it.

 

[tonyciambrone]

Don't forget that all receptacles (even ones for lighting) must have GFI protection located in a readily accessible location. (no ladders)
That leaves 2 options; a GFI breaker or a faceless GFI mounted ahead of the switches.

For you....

NEC 2002 here