wiring up new outlet for flat screen?

[sadler]

ok be easy on me, so i made a new outlet for my flat screen that i have mounted on the wall and i want to tap into the outlet that is close to the floor but that outlet has a line supplying power too and from this outlet to another so all 4 screws are occupied, so my question is can i double up on the top post(2 wires on one screw) or can i make a pig tail or do i have to run a new separate line to the fuse box? it seems could be easy to run a new line but if i have to what size breaker would i need for one out let for a flat screen and surround sound? (15 amp?) also i am in Chicago so i heard i cant use romex in the walls but i dont want to open up the wall to put piping, can i just use metallic insulated wire with clamps on each end so its secured to the outlet box? this will be in a non insulated wall and about 6ft apart from the 2 plugs.

 

[sadler]

also this is a floating ground set up , neutral is ground at box , do they sell wire that is just white and black with no ground or do i just not hook it up?

 

[theoldwizard1]

1 Screw, 1 wire. Period.

Remove the existing wire of of 1 screw, splice it with the new wire ans a pigtail using an appropriate size wire nut and then put the pigtail to the screw.

I don't know what special code Chicago has, but in most of the country, Romex is allowed.

When you say "neutral is grounded at the box" I assume you mean the 2 are tied together at the main panel, correct ?

I don't think anyone makes Romex without a ground. If metal shielded cable is required in your area, I'll bet Home Depot will cut you a piece to length and you can buy whit and black 14 gauge cut to length. Make vertain to get about 3' extra on the wire.

 

[sadler]

yea i figured that was the best best was to pig tail, and i heard from a few people they are strict about romex here , I think the only place it can be used is in a basement but other than that it has to be in a conduit of some sort. they dont even sell the plastic romex socket boxes at home depot, all i seen was metal boxes cause i was looking for the plastic ones cause thats we use in Michigan. looked up and down that isle for them lol all metal ones , also blows my mind you cant buy spray paint in the city.

 

[2ManyProjects]

ok be easy on me, so i made a new outlet for my flat screen that i have mounted on the wall and i want to tap into the outlet that is close to the floor

it seems could be easy to run a new line but if i have to what size breaker would i need for one out let for a flat screen and surround sound? (15 amp?)

It can depend somewhat on just how ambitious your home entertainment system is. For most folks, a standard 15A circuit will be more than adequate. But if you're a serious audiophile, with equally serious equipment (especially very large stand-alone power amps with linear power supplies), then "more is better" does apply. (For example, I ran a dedicated 20A circuit for the H.E. system at my shore house when I had the opportunity. It probably wasn't "necessary" in that case; but it was sufficiently easy & cheap to do that it made no sense to not do it.)

Either way, you ideally want all the gear to be on the same branch circuit, as long as that circuit is of adequate capacity. But if for any reason you need to use multiple circuits to feed various parts of the system, then it would be best if they were all fed from the same phase in your breaker panel; this will help reduce the chances of induced noise & hum due to ground loops.

 

[rlitman]

1 Screw, 1 wire. Period.

Nope. Get a spec grade back-wire outlet. The type that has two holes behind each screw. You can put one wire in each hole, and another wire under the screw. 1 screw, 3 wires.

BTW, I am NOT talking about the type of outlet that you push the wire into a spring loaded clip in the back. I'm talking about an outlet where the screw tightens a clamp on the wire under it (like you see on a GFI).

Chicago has different code from the rest of the country. I did not think armored cable was allowed there. In any case, most AC/MC clamps require opening up the wall enough to get the clamp in through the punch out, and access to the outside of the box to tighten the screw.

 

[Fishplate]

Nope. Get a spec grade back-wire outlet. The type that has two holes behind each screw. You can put one wire in each hole, and another wire under the screw. 1 screw, 3 wires.

Not that simple either...There's a limit to the number of conductors you can have in the box.

 

[kbs2244]

No Romex in Cook County!
Armored cable is OK outside the city but I am not sure about inside.
But everything I have seen that was inspected was EMT.

I would bite the bullet and open up the drywall and use EMT.
Otherwise if something goes wrong your insurance will not cover it.

If you can stand the look, Wiremold is OK in the code book.