Wiring video doorbell???

[aafadca]

Long story short. My eufy doorbell keeps blowing transformers. The first doorbell worked fine for about month and then went out. (Maybe transformer) I've had 2 replacements and now getting another shipped to me. I've had AT LEAST 7 transformers blow! I have all new wire from transformer straight to the doorbell. The transformer is fine with just the wires connected but when I connect the bell it blows within minutes or sooner. Theres not an original chime to connect/jump to like directions talk about. Both wires run straight from the transformer to the doorbell. The transformers have been from 24 to 36 volts. Eufy even sent me one they recommended. Any suggestions before the new one comes? It doesnt say anything about a resistor,etc.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

hmmm

Ive got 2 video doorbells connected to a transformer and Ive never had an issue.

When you say the transformer blows, what does that mean?

what voltage does the video doorbell require? ive never heard of that brand and i couldnt find an install manual or spec sheet on their website but 24-36v seems a bit high.

 

[Innovate1]

Most doorbells are about 16V if my memory is correct. 24 to 36V is very high.

 

[jeepxj]

you have a new transformer AND a new eufy? and new wire?

bench test the setup.

 

[Kezorm]

You say no chime? Is there a setting on the eufy for this? Default operation is probably to short the leads (provide power to the chime). I know my Unifi doorbell took out a transformer because I forgot to change this setting.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

You say no chime? Is there a setting on the eufy for this? Default operation is probably to short the leads (provide power to the chime). I know my Unifi doorbell took out a transformer because I forgot to change this setting.

My simplisafe video doorbell and ring video doorbell not have such a setting so that is interesting. However any video doorbell should have some resistance (ohms law) to not cause a dead short on the transformer...

I did put a resistor inline with the transformer that I used however as it was recommended

 

[dogdog]

Long story short. My eufy doorbell keeps blowing transformers. The first doorbell worked fine for about month and then went out. (Maybe transformer) I've had 2 replacements and now getting another shipped to me. I've had AT LEAST 7 transformers blow! I have all new wire from transformer straight to the doorbell. The transformer is fine with just the wires connected but when I connect the bell it blows within minutes or sooner. Theres not an original chime to connect/jump to like directions talk about. Both wires run straight from the transformer to the doorbell. The transformers have been from 24 to 36 volts. Eufy even sent me one they recommended. Any suggestions before the new one comes? It doesnt say anything about a resistor,etc.

their website says 16vac to 24vac at minimum of 30va. probably up to 27vac it's fine, not sure about 36vac.... you should be fine with any 24v 40va hvac transformers. Not sure what went out means? did the transformer stop producing secondary output voltage ? of the door bell stop working ? what is the size of that transformer in VA wise... ? at least a minimum of 30va right most door bell are lower?

 

[Kezorm]

However any video doorbell should have some resistance (ohms law) to not cause a dead short on the transformer...

Doorbell transformers have a non-resettable fuse. Not sure what the trip is, but my unifi doorbell definitely took it out the first time I pressed the button. It has a "no chime" setting where it doesn't close the contacts, just app notification.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Doorbell transformers have a non-resettable fuse. Not sure what the trip is, but my unifi doorbell definitely took it out the first time I pressed the button. It has a "no chime" setting where it doesn't close the contacts, just app notification.

This is incorrect. Some DB transformers have a non-resettable fuse. The one i bought actually does have an automatic resetting fuse...

 

[Kezorm]

This is incorrect. Some DB transformers have a non-resettable fuse.

Fair enough. SOME doorbell transformers have a non-resettable fuse. Mine certainly did (bought ~5 years ago at Home Depot). Sounds like the transformers that the OP is getting may have non-resettable fuses.

 

[justsam]

I believe Kezorm is on to it here. I too recall that a Ring doorbell I once installed for someone else indeed placed a short across the terminals when pressed. The assumption being that there was a mechanical or electronic chime basically in series with the circuit so the transformer was not directly shorted. Looking at the net it seems most feel the Ring doorbell is about a 4 watt power consumer. Based on that number I would try putting about a 60 ohm, 5 watt resistor in series with the transformer to door bell and see if that does not save the transformer. Do not leave button pressed for too long as the resistor will protest, especially if the transformer is 36VAC, as opposed to a lower voltage like 16 to 24 VAC.

After review on the web, there is a more elegant solution than my suggested brute force with a resistor. There is a "smarter" transformer that can supply power but also deal with the direct short at the time the button is pressed.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B38C955P/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[aafadca]

hmmm

Ive got 2 video doorbells connected to a transformer and Ive never had an issue.

When you say the transformer blows, what does that mean?

what voltage does the video doorbell require? ive never heard of that brand and i couldnt find an install manual or spec sheet on their website but 24-36v seems a bit high.

When it "blows" I mean it stops working and loses power. The last one I had hooked to the 120 power source and wires for hours. It constantly read about 28 volts at the terminals and the wire ends. I connected the doorbell and walked to the basement (about 2 minutes) heard the normal slight hum and then it stopped! Checked the terminals and no voltage at all. I'm wondering if maybe because both wires are connected to the doorbell and 1 not going through a chime has anything to do with it?? They sent me the transformer they recommend and the same thing happened.

 

[aafadca]

You say no chime? Is there a setting on the eufy for this? Default operation is probably to short the leads (provide power to the chime). I know my Unifi doorbell took out a transformer because I forgot to change this setting.

If I had a chime already I'm supposed to use their jumper cable to bypass it because their chime is electronic and plugs into an outlet.

 

[aafadca]

I believe Kezorm is on to it here. I too recall that a Ring doorbell I once installed for someone else indeed placed a short across the terminals when pressed. The assumption being that there was a mechanical or electronic chime basically in series with the circuit so the transformer was not directly shorted. Looking at the net it seems most feel the Ring doorbell is about a 4 watt power consumer. Based on that number I would try putting about a 60 ohm, 5 watt resistor in series with the transformer to door bell and see if that does not save the transformer. Do not leave button pressed for too long as the resistor will protest, especially if the transformer is 36VAC, as opposed to a lower voltage like 16 to 24 VAC.

After review on the web, there is a more elegant solution than my suggested brute force with a resistor. There is a "smarter" transformer that can supply power but also deal with the direct short at the time the button is pressed.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B38C955P/?tag=atomicindus08-20

That transformer on amazon is the type the Eufy rep said I may want to try. I may consider it. I would just have to put in an outlet somewhere

 

[Innovate1]

Maybe if the wiring all checks out just throw the eufy away and get a different brand. After 7 transformers you could have paid for another one.

 

[walta]

Just to be 100 % clear do you have it wired as shown in the attached photo. Note the resister could get as hot as a 25-watt incandescent lamp so mount it in metal and away from anything flammable.

Walta

 

[dogdog]

ter review on the web, there is a more elegant solution than my suggested brute force with a resistor. There is a "smarter" transformer that can supply power but also deal with the direct short at the time the button is pressed.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B38C955P/?tag=atomicindus08-20

1) this linked transformer does not provide enough power of 30va or more. Get a hvac transformer that is 24v and rated 40va or more add an automotive inline fuse if it makes you feel better 1.5 amp fuse is plenty.

2) cheaper transformers have thermal fuse connected to it in the event that he winding gets too hot and it will temporary break connections and reset after it cools down. Cheaper fuse will break over time with too many resets. And will not reset. fuse is usually embedded to the primary coil. All you can verify is if voltage in is there for 120v and voltage out is around 24v if it is then transformer is good.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

When it "blows" I mean it stops working and loses power. The last one I had hooked to the 120 power source and wires for hours. It constantly read about 28 volts at the terminals and the wire ends. I connected the doorbell and walked to the basement (about 2 minutes) heard the normal slight hum and then it stopped! Checked the terminals and no voltage at all. I'm wondering if maybe because both wires are connected to the doorbell and 1 not going through a chime has anything to do with it?? They sent me the transformer they recommend and the same thing happened.

I dont have a chime at my house and have 2x video doorbells (ring and simplisafe) connected to the transformer, with a resister in series on one side. haven't had any issues since i installed it like 3yrs ago. my transformer does have an auto reset fuse but its never tripped as my DBs have worked flawlessly since....

 

[aafadca]

Maybe if the wiring all checks out just throw the eufy away and get a different brand. After 7 transformers you could have paid for another one.

Free returns!

 

[aafadca]

Just to be 100 % clear do you have it wired as shown in the attached photo. Note the resister could get as hot as a 25-watt incandescent lamp so mount it in metal and away from anything flammable.

Walta

Yes, EXCEPT theres no resistor inline. It doent say to install one anywhere in the directions. I even asked the rep on the phone about one but he didn't really know. Thats sort of what I'm leaning toward being the problem

 

[aafadca]

Just found this. Sounds like what I've been thinking. Maybe?

Do I Need A Resistor For Ring Doorbell 2 & 3? (Find It Now!) | PortablePowerGuides

A resistor is a device that resists the electrical flow. Some resistors have an insulating middle surrounded by conductive wire. They are called wire-wound resistors.…

portablepowerguides.com

 

[Innovate1]

What model do you have? I haven't seen the instructions but if they say to short the existing bell then that could be because of the power it needs. If they call out a 30 VA transformer - that is a lot of power. It may be overloading the transformer but not completely shorting it. That would explain why it works for a while and then fails. The next step I would take would be to measure the current. Mine (different brand) had a small box to wire across the chime - think it is just a resistor to pass a little more power to the doorbell. I checked my transformer temp. It's just the original small one (don't know the VA rating) and it is barely warm.

 

[justsam]

Time to rethink the classic mechanical chime door bell and the door bell transformer it required.
Ring, and it's clones, are cameras and have the same power requirement as many other small indoor cameras. If you look at the spec for the EUFY recommended power unit, when used without any mechanical or electronic chime, it is 24VAC at 500mA or 12VA output.

The original Ring was to be installed in addition to the existing chime, and use existing wiring. They also have a battery in them that is normally kept charged. This required and lived with the traditional door bell transformer. Again, the EUFY and others, when not using a chime, use a typical wall wart switching supply, which deals with the momentary short when button is pushed.

Units that are made to be used with your existing, conventional door bell keep the chime in the loop to limit current, lacking that a resistor can be used to do the job but does create some heat issues and in this day and age, wall warts are easier to find than resistors.

Just to add to the confusion, Ring now has their Elite series of door bell which is POE which then requires a POE bridge, or some other form of power injector, and of course cat 5/6 to the door bell button.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Time to rethink the classic mechanical chime door bell and the door bell transformer it required.
Ring, and it's clones, are cameras and have the same power requirement as many other small indoor cameras. If you look at the spec for the EUFY recommended power unit, when used without any mechanical or electronic chime, it is 24VAC at 500mA or 12VA output.

The original Ring was to be installed in addition to the existing chime, and use existing wiring. They also have a battery in them that is normally kept charged. This required and lived with the traditional door bell transformer. Again, the EUFY and others, when not using a chime, use a typical wall wart switching supply, which deals with the momentary short when button is pushed.

Units that are made to be used with your existing, conventional door bell keep the chime in the loop to limit current, lacking that a resistor can be used to do the job but does create some heat issues and in this day and age, wall warts are easier to find than resistors.

Just to add to the confusion, Ring now has their Elite series of door bell which is POE which then requires a POE bridge, or some other form of power injector, and of course cat 5/6 to the door bell button.

or how about just a POE switch on the network?

 

[justsam]

Opps, I was thinking SWITCH and wrote BRIDGE!

 

[walta]

I messed with a different brand of video doorbell it had a software setting for if you have a mechanical chime in the system. In order to operate the chime, the video doorbell needs to short the two wires it connects to for a few seconds making the chime sound. If you don’t use the chime the doorbell will shot circuit the transformer most will survive a few seconds depending on the gage of the wire that was used.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SPC8CKK/?tag=atomicindus08-20



Walta

 

[aafadca]

Basically it sounds like I need to either put a resistor in line or use one of the plug in transfomers that's designed for this type of doorbell

 

[Innovate1]

Basically it sounds like I need to either put a resistor in line or use one of the plug in transfomers that's designed for this type of doorbell

Your first post said eufy sent you one - what happened to that one? It wasn't completely clear but it seemed like you had this one blow out already. I haven't looked at the instructions in detail (I tried but there are a number of different models and I don't know which one you have) but if the normal bell is called out to be jumpered then a resistor may limit the power to the camera causing operational problems and it sounds like you are simply using a smaller transformer than needed. If you needed a resistor it would be failing when the button is pressed but from what you said I though the camera was failing when the button was not being used.

 

[aafadca]

They sent me the hardwired type. The same type I've been using. I'm seriously thinking about using the plugin type now and see if that's the problem.

 

[aafadca]

This is the voltage requirement from their website. (16-24VAC, 30VA or above)

 

[Innovate1]

Which model do you have?

 

[aafadca]

Which model do you have?

I think its the 1080 wired version

 

[justsam]

What wiring do you already have in place? Assuming you have two conductor wire of some form, (not critical), you can use it to connect to your Eufy doorbutton/camera and connect the other end to the Eufy power source, the switching supply wall wart unit that supplies 24VAC at 500mA. Again with this you do not want or need any resistor or large, traditional door bell transformer, and no chime unit in the circuit.

If you need a chime, beyond what will be sent to your phone, these units use a plug in chime, much like a wall wart, that is triggered from the camera via WiFi. Again, not part of any traditional door bell circuit.

 

[aafadca]

The wiring is the standard transformer with new doorbell wire. I think I see what you're saying about connecting the wiring. You mean instead of putting in a new box, just plug the plug in transformer in an outlet near the wires that are there now and wire nut them together?
The chime that came with doorbell is a plugin wall unit

 

[justsam]

The wiring is the standard transformer with new doorbell wire. I think I see what you're saying about connecting the wiring. You mean instead of putting in a new box, just plug the plug in transformer in an outlet near the wires that are there now and wire nut them together?
The chime that came with doorbell is a plugin wall unit

That is correct! I am assuming that the existing wire run is not to long and would not be in most cases. Test the unit first with the power unit directly, even if you need some form of temporary extension cord. Getting that working first before introducing the existing wiring in the picture.

In splicing the wires use proper small wire nuts or better yet solder and shrink tube the connection. I suspect the power unit will have stranded wire and the bell wire I assume is solid 18 ga or so.

Wall chime can of course be placed anywhere as it is triggered by WiFi.

 

[aafadca]

That is correct! I am assuming that the existing wire run is not to long and would not be in most cases. Test the unit first with the power unit directly, even if you need some form of temporary extension cord. Getting that working first before introducing the existing wiring in the picture.

In splicing the wires use proper small wire nuts or better yet solder and shrink tube the connection. I suspect the power unit will have stranded wire and the bell wire I assume is solid 18 ga or so.

Wall chime can of course be placed anywhere as it is triggered by WiFi.

That's a great idea! I'll order one of those and try it. I'll be out of town for a few weeks so I won't be able to try it right away. Thanks for all the input. Forums are a good thing!

 

[aafadca]

That's a great idea! I'll order one of those and try it. I'll be out of town for a few weeks so I won't be able to try it right away. Thanks for all the input. Forums are a good thing!

Update: I ordered one of the plug in transformers suggested. I hooked it directly to the doorbell since the new doorbell was still in the box. It lit up like it was supposed to so I let it stay that way all night. It was still lit the next morning! So I took it to the house and hooked it up splicing it into the bell wire. No go!! No voltage on the transformer! Pulled the bell wire out and saw a possible small nick in the sheath. The new transformer came in a day or 2 and I made an outlet close enough I could hook it directly to the doorbell. It lit up like it was supposed and I was able connect normally! It's been about a week and no problems. Bottom line is If you don't have a previous doorbell with a chime you need to use a plug in transformer or use some type resistor. I didn't see that in any of their info or instructions. They should include it. Thanks for the help everyone!