Daddy454
Well-known member
Tis far better to have and not need.
to have that 2 "extra" inches that's been mentioned,.... but I managed OK and have the 5 kids and bald head to show for it too. Wanting a smaller garage is like saying my **** is 2" too long - nobody does it.
So says all of the macho "men."
To give a different perspective, I gladly downsized significantly. I grew up working in LARGE shops, my parents being 40'x100'x~20' below the rafters IIRC. It freakin sucked in both mid winter and mid summer. Despite being a brandy new building, not being able to afford that much insulation and heat/ac meant working wasnt fun in freezing temps. It also meant we stored a ton of **** which we never used, touched, or enjoyed. It was nice that we had tons of space to work on and store tractors, vehicles, and other equipment, but if you hardly use them what's the point?
A few years ago I reached a decision to downsize significantly due to a high number of projects and a low finishing rate. I had tons of space between LARGE buildings owned by relatives near where I was living at the time, but when I was considering moving out here I realized I needed a change. Now I have my lil 30x30(?) (I really need to measure one of these days), plus a big empty basement to play in. Having heat, a/c, and not storing ten tons of **** makes me 10x as efficient at completing projects and in locating tools when I need them. I still have a few machine tools and other big toys, but Im not constantly tripping over **** to use them bc its much easier to clean and maintain a smaller area.
My suggestions for order of finishing would be:
1) Get power to the building. This is a must for safety and ease of working finishing the building. It's not good to have extension cords running across the yard.
2) Sheet and insulate the ceiling. You're going to want to do this before you get too much stuff in the garage. If you do heat the building, ceiling insulation is most beneficial (IMO).
3) Install lighting.
4) Rough in your electrical outlets. Some could even be "heated up" to allow work on the building or actual work in the shop before the walls are finished.
5) Finish at least part of the floor. If you do half at a time you can move stuff back and forth while the other half of the floor is being poured. Install infloor heat tubing while you are at it too.
6) Insulate and sheet the walls.
If you are doing the work yourself, watch for sales on materials. I watch the sales flyers from my local chain (Menards). You can usually figure out their patterns when things are going on sale. They also run several 11% off sales throughout the year. Just something to think about.
A few questions so I can help.
What area are you located?
What seasons do you plan on using this building?
How do you want to use this building?
Hello TMT and everyone else, thank you all for the positive responses. I am glad I went 30x40 it just seems overwhelming when I think of the 35 or so sheets of 2" foam for under the slab or all of the metal wall paneling and all the ceiling 2x6's for in between the trusses and on and on and on. Anyways to answer TMT's questions.
I am located in northern Illinois
I want to use during all seasons
I will use this building for hobby work and storage, restoring, welding, painting and so forth.
I started the wall insulation the other day, I am bookshelfing between the posts and will run the FG batts horizontally. I figured I would do one bay at a time, everytime I go to Menards I plan on buying something whether it be a 2x6 or a roll of insulation.
Again thanks everyone.
Hello TMT and everyone else, thank you all for the positive responses. I am glad I went 30x40 it just seems overwhelming when I think of the 35 or so sheets of 2" foam for under the slab or all of the metal wall paneling and all the ceiling 2x6's for in between the trusses and on and on and on. Anyways to answer TMT's questions.
I am located in northern Illinois
I want to use during all seasons
I will use this building for hobby work and storage, restoring, welding, painting and so forth.
I started the wall insulation the other day, I am bookshelfing between the posts and will run the FG batts horizontally. I figured I would do one bay at a time, everytime I go to Menards I plan on buying something whether it be a 2x6 or a roll of insulation.
Again thanks everyone.
Okay..you are in a cold snow zone...and want to use all year round...so the first priority is to weatherize the shell...sealing and insulations. Insulate the ceiling first..that is where vast majority of the heat is lost...sidewalls next. Seal doors for air leaks...if you are not using them, temporarly seal them with tape or such...you are trying to eliminate air leaks that will rob you of heat. If you do this and keep the doors SHUT you will soon find that with heating from the earth you will be above freezing.
Once you have an enclosed space that you work in at a cool temperature of mid 30s -50s...you can do a lot. The additions that you are discussing can be done a bit at a time, a stall at a time so you can have a cool half, warm half to work in. If you need to heat a section, you can enclose it in plastic and heat just that area...and any heat that escapes heats the remainder of the shed.
Don't let the size of the job get you discouraged.
Like eating an elephant...you do it one bite at a time.
Tonight at -10f I'm going to be thinking it's a bit too large to heat!
William....
