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Wish you had gone smaller?

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rickyboy

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 21, 2012
Messages
90
Location
Langley, BC Canada
I have to say that I doubt you'll regret having a bigger garage. Sure it's bound to be more $$$, but like others have suggested,... do what you can, when you can.
I didn't have to build a garage when I bought the place I'm going to be in, within the next year. {retiring soon} I have a single car, and a small one at that, where I presently live while employed. And to get the 2.5 car garage in "the new place" was unbelievable and over the top for me, when we bought. I thought I'd died and gone to garage heaven. But since taking possession and moving some things up there, I'm now planning to make sure I have a vinyl garden shed and I'm sure I'm going to incorporate the carport next to the garage into part of the 2.5 car garage. Maybe just seperated by a "man door".
So you're never big enough. { I mean your garage :D } It would have been nice I guess :dunno: to have that 2 "extra" inches that's been mentioned,.... but I managed OK and have the 5 kids and bald head to show for it too.
Good luck and don't worry, you'll get there. "The law of attraction" works for me.
 

wedge40

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 31, 2009
Messages
335
Location
Bloomington, IN
I'm in the same boat. I built my 40x56 over a year ago. I saved money to get the shell done without taking out a loan. Then when I had money ready I had electricity put in. I was over a year after that I just now go the cement poured. Next year I'll get the place partially insulated with spray foam.
You will never regret going bigger once it's done. The waiting to get it done may kill you though.

Wedge
 

rickyboy

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 21, 2012
Messages
90
Location
Langley, BC Canada
I am still going to need to add additional electric outlets, better lighting, and plumb for air, and insulate after the fact. I want to buy a MaxJax to install too. So I still have a ways to go with additional money needed. But that's what I'm doing with any "extra" money {if there is such a thing} while I'm still employed, and before I retire and get on that "fixed income". Aren't we all on a "fixed income" these days no matter if you're working or retired??
 

Modifieddriver

Well-known member
Joined
May 29, 2009
Messages
820
Location
Moonville, South Carolina
Getting ready to do a 40'x90' Still debating if I should add an extra 10' and make it an even 100'. That'll be about another $5-6k. At $10/month/$1k, that'll be another $50-60 per month for 10 years. Cheap date????

Ya' never build'em too big. Already outgrew 2,200 sq.ft.
 

2mJps

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 20, 2012
Messages
1,797
Location
north central Mo
I live were it gets cold and i like to work in my shop in the winter. I work in a 40x60. If it was mine i would put a wall up at 20x40. I did have a 30x30 and it was great you could warm it up in 30 minutes. I dont like to work in a warehouse with a bunch of stuff that is geting dirty and welding sparks are hiting it. So thier is drawbacks to any thing.
 

Kevin54

MEMBER EMERITUS
Joined
Jan 12, 2005
Messages
29,341
Location
Urbana, Ohio
Save up your coin. You can always pour half the floor so you have a place to put your benches, roll-a-round, or whatever else that sits on the floor, then do the other half later on in the year, next year, or whenever you get the coin to do that. OR....if you have a Credit Union, maybe see about borrowing to get your floor in. Your looking at almost 19 yards @ 5" thick, so around $2000 give or take a few hundred.
 

justanengineer

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 5, 2011
Messages
7,722
Location
Motor City
Wanting a smaller garage is like saying my **** is 2" too long - nobody does it.

So says all of the macho "men."

To give a different perspective, I gladly downsized significantly. I grew up working in LARGE shops, my parents being 40'x100'x~20' below the rafters IIRC. It freakin sucked in both mid winter and mid summer. Despite being a brandy new building, not being able to afford that much insulation and heat/ac meant working wasnt fun in freezing temps. It also meant we stored a ton of **** which we never used, touched, or enjoyed. It was nice that we had tons of space to work on and store tractors, vehicles, and other equipment, but if you hardly use them what's the point?

A few years ago I reached a decision to downsize significantly due to a high number of projects and a low finishing rate. I had tons of space between LARGE buildings owned by relatives near where I was living at the time, but when I was considering moving out here I realized I needed a change. Now I have my lil 30x30(?) (I really need to measure one of these days), plus a big empty basement to play in. Having heat, a/c, and not storing ten tons of **** makes me 10x as efficient at completing projects and in locating tools when I need them. I still have a few machine tools and other big toys, but Im not constantly tripping over **** to use them bc its much easier to clean and maintain a smaller area.
 
Joined
Jul 1, 2005
Messages
676
Location
usa
So says all of the macho "men."

To give a different perspective, I gladly downsized significantly. I grew up working in LARGE shops, my parents being 40'x100'x~20' below the rafters IIRC. It freakin sucked in both mid winter and mid summer. Despite being a brandy new building, not being able to afford that much insulation and heat/ac meant working wasnt fun in freezing temps. It also meant we stored a ton of **** which we never used, touched, or enjoyed. It was nice that we had tons of space to work on and store tractors, vehicles, and other equipment, but if you hardly use them what's the point?

A few years ago I reached a decision to downsize significantly due to a high number of projects and a low finishing rate. I had tons of space between LARGE buildings owned by relatives near where I was living at the time, but when I was considering moving out here I realized I needed a change. Now I have my lil 30x30(?) (I really need to measure one of these days), plus a big empty basement to play in. Having heat, a/c, and not storing ten tons of **** makes me 10x as efficient at completing projects and in locating tools when I need them. I still have a few machine tools and other big toys, but Im not constantly tripping over **** to use them bc its much easier to clean and maintain a smaller area.

Well said.

In reality is it like Goldilocks...not too small, not too big...just right.

Just because you can build a McMansion garage doesn't mean you should.

As the OP is learning...the erection of the garage shell is just the beginning of the expenses.

Since I didn't get an answer to my questions of location, usage, etc. ...I would say that the user can slowly add the features he wants over time...no problem with that. In fact it is a good idea to "live with the garage" for awhile...many times it will change the way you will implement a feature.

In my case I should have built the garage taller..and would have if I had thought I was going to install a lift...at the time the building was going to be used for another purpose.
 

LutzTD

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 31, 2011
Messages
3,673
Location
Lutz, Florida
My suggestions for order of finishing would be:

1) Get power to the building. This is a must for safety and ease of working finishing the building. It's not good to have extension cords running across the yard.
2) Sheet and insulate the ceiling. You're going to want to do this before you get too much stuff in the garage. If you do heat the building, ceiling insulation is most beneficial (IMO).
3) Install lighting.
4) Rough in your electrical outlets. Some could even be "heated up" to allow work on the building or actual work in the shop before the walls are finished.
5) Finish at least part of the floor. If you do half at a time you can move stuff back and forth while the other half of the floor is being poured. Install infloor heat tubing while you are at it too.
6) Insulate and sheet the walls.

If you are doing the work yourself, watch for sales on materials. I watch the sales flyers from my local chain (Menards). You can usually figure out their patterns when things are going on sale. They also run several 11% off sales throughout the year. Just something to think about.

yep agree with this entirely. get your overall plan together then do portions that fit with the overall plan. pour your floor in 10x10 sections, be there when they do the work on the first one or two, then you will be able to do more and more yourself. watch the tools they use, most can be had cheap used or be rented. by the time you get to the last one it will cost you materials and beer money for a couple buddies. also watch craigs for materials. I found easy $1500 worth of pipe for $400 and I found small runs of heavy gage wire that was fine for me for 25% cost of new. Look at your material list and price it all at Lowes HD and a purpose built stire (electrical only supply etc) so you know the real cost, then watch for going out of business, or inventory reductions and get it on the cheap. I think doing it this way will save you a ton of money over doing it in a big bang and paying retail for everything. ALso hone your negotiating skills, almost everything in craigs is negotiable. do it with a smile and know what you want to pay and make a game out of getting it a little cheaper even. I designed my building to be in sections then also to be built in steps. Im doing a lot of stuff myself for the cost of materials and used tools, I will sell the tools I dont want to keep likely for what I paid or a little more. above all else be happy you have a shell, your still way ahead of a lot of guys...
 
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78C-10

Banned
Joined
Mar 14, 2012
Messages
1,314
Location
No. Illinois
A few questions so I can help.

What area are you located?

What seasons do you plan on using this building?

How do you want to use this building?

Hello TMT and everyone else, thank you all for the positive responses. I am glad I went 30x40 it just seems overwhelming when I think of the 35 or so sheets of 2" foam for under the slab or all of the metal wall paneling and all the ceiling 2x6's for in between the trusses and on and on and on. Anyways to answer TMT's questions.

I am located in northern Illinois
I want to use during all seasons
I will use this building for hobby work and storage, restoring, welding, painting and so forth.

I started the wall insulation the other day, I am bookshelfing between the posts and will run the FG batts horizontally. I figured I would do one bay at a time, everytime I go to Menards I plan on buying something whether it be a 2x6 or a roll of insulation.

Again thanks everyone.
 
Joined
Jul 1, 2005
Messages
676
Location
usa
Hello TMT and everyone else, thank you all for the positive responses. I am glad I went 30x40 it just seems overwhelming when I think of the 35 or so sheets of 2" foam for under the slab or all of the metal wall paneling and all the ceiling 2x6's for in between the trusses and on and on and on. Anyways to answer TMT's questions.

I am located in northern Illinois
I want to use during all seasons
I will use this building for hobby work and storage, restoring, welding, painting and so forth.

I started the wall insulation the other day, I am bookshelfing between the posts and will run the FG batts horizontally. I figured I would do one bay at a time, everytime I go to Menards I plan on buying something whether it be a 2x6 or a roll of insulation.

Again thanks everyone.

Okay..you are in a cold snow zone...and want to use all year round...so the first priority is to weatherize the shell...sealing and insulations. Insulate the ceiling first..that is where vast majority of the heat is lost...sidewalls next. Seal doors for air leaks...if you are not using them, temporarly seal them with tape or such...you are trying to eliminate air leaks that will rob you of heat. If you do this and keep the doors SHUT you will soon find that with heating from the earth you will be above freezing.

Once you have an enclosed space that you work in at a cool temperature of mid 30s -50s...you can do a lot. The additions that you are discussing can be done a bit at a time, a stall at a time so you can have a cool half, warm half to work in. If you need to heat a section, you can enclose it in plastic and heat just that area...and any heat that escapes heats the remainder of the shed.

Don't let the size of the job get you discouraged.

Like eating an elephant...you do it one bite at a time.
 

Kevin54

MEMBER EMERITUS
Joined
Jan 12, 2005
Messages
29,341
Location
Urbana, Ohio
Hello TMT and everyone else, thank you all for the positive responses. I am glad I went 30x40 it just seems overwhelming when I think of the 35 or so sheets of 2" foam for under the slab or all of the metal wall paneling and all the ceiling 2x6's for in between the trusses and on and on and on. Anyways to answer TMT's questions.

I am located in northern Illinois
I want to use during all seasons
I will use this building for hobby work and storage, restoring, welding, painting and so forth.


I started the wall insulation the other day, I am bookshelfing between the posts and will run the FG batts horizontally. I figured I would do one bay at a time, everytime I go to Menards I plan on buying something whether it be a 2x6 or a roll of insulation.

Again thanks everyone.

Okay..you are in a cold snow zone...and want to use all year round...so the first priority is to weatherize the shell...sealing and insulations. Insulate the ceiling first..that is where vast majority of the heat is lost...sidewalls next. Seal doors for air leaks...if you are not using them, temporarly seal them with tape or such...you are trying to eliminate air leaks that will rob you of heat. If you do this and keep the doors SHUT you will soon find that with heating from the earth you will be above freezing.

Once you have an enclosed space that you work in at a cool temperature of mid 30s -50s...you can do a lot. The additions that you are discussing can be done a bit at a time, a stall at a time so you can have a cool half, warm half to work in. If you need to heat a section, you can enclose it in plastic and heat just that area...and any heat that escapes heats the remainder of the shed.

Don't let the size of the job get you discouraged.

Like eating an elephant...you do it one bite at a time.

78......for future questions, you may want to consider putting your state in your profile. It makes it easier for others to answer questions, but I see you had it in your response.

Too Many is spot on about the insulation. Do the ceiling first. Any heat you have in there is going to go up to the top. Even a layer of plastic or drywall on a ceiling helps considerably keeping the heat down. I'm glad to see that you're going to insulate the floor, but it's not a huge necessity unless you plan on putting heat in the floor. I can't think of which member it is right off, but he insulated his floor with cutouts from a door manufacturer. Again, keep an eye out on CL for deals. If per chance you decide to not insulate it, do make sure you put down a vapor barrier just as a precaution. You'll also want to keep an eye out for any deals on wiring. It's not too bad to wire a garage / pole barn inside as far as cost, but the wire from the house to the building can take a big bite out of the wallet.

One of my buddy's had a pole barn that he work on a gravel floor for a number of years until he had enough saved to do his floors. He bought a few sheets of treated plywood and tossed them down to lay on if he was under the car. Not the best thing by all means, but better than laying out in a driveway in the cold. He had a woodburner that would run you out after he had it fired up. Finally after 5 or 6 years, he had the cash to do the floors and walls how he wanted, all paid for.
 

W650Mike

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 17, 2010
Messages
1,093
Location
North Central Texas
30x40 is just right for me and a size I've recommended to friends.

Big enough to store a few toys while you work on other toys; yet small enough to heat enough to take the chill off on a frosty morning.
 

W-Cummins

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 9, 2006
Messages
1,640
Location
Iowa
Tonight at -10f I'm going to be thinking it's a bit too large to heat!

William....
 

Steevo

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Joined
Aug 18, 2009
Messages
8,738
Location
43.49600, -112.04300
Yeah, I wish my shop was smaller.
And I wish my #ick was shorter, and that I had less money, and could work more years before retiring.


And that good tequila was more expensive!!
 
Joined
Jul 1, 2005
Messages
676
Location
usa
Tonight at -10f I'm going to be thinking it's a bit too large to heat!

William....

LOL...the price of living in the snow belt.

I once saw an interesting way to conserve heat.

The guy had insulated all of his ceiling (and the ceiling is where the vast majority of heat is lost) and two of his walls. The wall with the doors was not. Then he had an insulated curtain that moved across his 30x50 garage/shop that he could use to seal off only the area he wanted to heat...everything else was cold storage...it worked very well.
 

mpraddict

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 28, 2007
Messages
269
Location
Central Ohio
Patience is a wonderful thing....it took me 5 years to complete my 30x60 because I built as I could afford to pay for it.
 

kwb

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Joined
May 1, 2009
Messages
1,771
Location
PNW
Heating and such is a concern but my point is that adding to the shell is a huge PITA if you do need more space. I am 36x42 plus 450sf of loft space and wish I had more space but the logistics of adding to a space and not ending up with posts and walls where you don't want them in the new space make it so it is almost easier to just tear down and start over.

To the guys with more than 3000sf - you aren't in the same realm but when coming from 2-3 car space 12-1500sf is huge sounding but picking wrong for size of toy collection and type of work you do in the space it is rare that you will estimate in planning that you have gotten enough space. God forbid you pick up a new hobby/toy that you didn't consider when planning the build.
 
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