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Wolverine Coatings

WolverineCoatings

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 22, 2007
Messages
833
Location
Spartanburg, SC
Hi guys,

Enough of you have sent us PMs and e-mails that i thought I might take a minute and kind of tell you guys what we are up to.

First, we are in the process of going into the DIY market. Since the company was founded in 2001, we have only serviced the heavy industrial markets AND made highly technical products for other paint companies who either didn't have the ability or the desire. We have made private label products (our products with someone elses label on them) for companies of all sizes from Mom & Pop to the largest paint company in the world. In fact, we have done projects for many of the top 5 or 10. In general, our lowest technology products are far more advanced than most company's 'high tech' products.

We are working on a DIY website that will not be complete for several more months. If I mention a product and you can't find it on our website, you can fill out an Info Request here: http://wolverinecoatings.com/html/contacts.html
We have about 5000 formulations so we just can't put them all on there. We are not actively soliciting business for DIY applications yet and it is important that you mention Garage Journal when you call or send a request. If someone tells you, "We don't sell to the general public"... just tell them you are a member of Garage Journal.

Ok... Now... Here is the hold up on the launch of the DIY website. As of this moment, we are 'sold out' for our industrial customers for about the next 7 weeks. We have been very loyal to the customers who have got us where we are so we have a customer waiting list for new industrial business. Obviously, we can't take on new customers at the expense of the old loyal ones. We are in the midst of another manufacturing expansion that will be complete very soon. When the new 'batch room' comes online we will be able to bring the customers from the waiting list onboard and will still have some excess capacity.

The other hold up is the need for alot of pictures for marketing and DIY stories. We have created some pretty comprehensive instructions for doing garage floors but we really need for those instructions to be as good as our products. Nothing ticks me off more than to pay good money for something that has crappy instructions. We need people to critique our instructions and suggest little tips and tricks that they might learn while doing their floor. Since professionally trained contractors do not need instructions, this is the first time we have made any. They were not available when Navi did his floor. Again... the instructions are pretty comprehensive but we want them to be perfect.

So, what this boils down to is that we are willing to help people that will help us! We are working on coming up with a contest that would be help right here on GarageJournal. We are hoping to devise something that helps you guys while you help us!

We had hoped to come out with this contest by November 1st but we've just been way too busy. We're going to try our best to figure all of this out and do this sometime in January or February so we can have the information we need by springtime. (It's a good thing our products can cure at low temperatures)

In the meantime, if you have a 'now' project, we would be glad to help and talk to you. We have been working in some small orders for a few of you over the last few weeks. So, until the DIY site goes live, please either call us or fill out an information form. (http://wolverinecoatings.com/html/contacts.html)

Thanks, Eric
 
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Splinter

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 22, 2007
Messages
156
Location
St. Louis-ish
I'll offer that you can do my floor as a demo and take all the pics you want as soon as I get it poured :lol:

Congrats on the expansion. Glad to hear that you guys are booming so good.
 

g17jimmy

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 21, 2007
Messages
83
I just hit your comments page. I'm interested in your product, and I'm just a few miles down the road from you. Here's what I'm working on:

2036095919_2e84d14377.jpg

They're supposed to start the concrete tomorrow, so it won't be long...
 
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WolverineCoatings

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 22, 2007
Messages
833
Location
Spartanburg, SC
You need to put BondTite 1501 on that concrete within 20 hours of the pour!!! The BondTite 1501 will allow you to coat the concrete without having to grind the concrete or acid etch. You also won't have to wait for 28 days before coating!

You can call us tomorrow (864) 342-9292 and ask for Bill Coffey or me (Eric)

Oh... you're from Roebuck aren't you? We were out your way today... nothing beats Holden's Ranch on a cold day... lol...
 

woohoo

Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2007
Messages
18
I just finished my 30x40 garage, and the concrete has been curing since Nov 15th. I'm looking for something that's easy and durable, but not as labor intensive as epoxy. How does you coating stack up? Currently, I'm planning on going with Seal Krete and maybe adding some stain to it. All I'm looking for is something that will keep the dust down, is easy to clean and has a little bit of a shine to it.
 
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WolverineCoatings

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 22, 2007
Messages
833
Location
Spartanburg, SC
In general, flooring materials in a garage are like anything else (I won't single out a ***) ... 'easy' usually doesn't last long... lol... Plus, 'easy' can give you pain later. I remember this one time... at band camp... *well... maybe we shouldn't go there... lol

Seriously, we all have to choose between cheap, easy, and quality.

If you just want to keep dust down and want 'cheap and easy' then you can use a solvented product that is used on walkways at Disneyland... AcryliSeal 3401... It requires minimal prep and is simple to apply. I would expect it to last alot longer than SealKrete...

If you want something that will last and want less prep work then you can use a special biodegradable floor prep soluton we have called OrganiStrip 901 (for Sealed Concrete) or OrganiPrep 921 (for unsealed concrete). OrganiPrep 921 is used on concrete that has never been sealed. OrganiPrep 901 is used when a slab has had a curing sealer put on it.

Sealed Concrete: The OrganiStrip 901 (for sealed concrete) is applied and allowed to sit on the sealer overnight. It strips the sealer and etches the concrete. You hose it out or pressure wash it out the next day.

Unsealed Concrete: The OrganiPrep 921 is applied to the garage floor. Then, you wait 15 minutes. After 15 minutes, you disturb the surface with a deck brush all over. Then, you wait 15 more minutes and hose it down the drain or out the door.

After you use this prep solution you can apply BondTite 1101 which is a clear primer as well as a clearcoat. The BondTite 1101 is 100% solids so it does not contain any solvent or water. One of the cool things is that this product is NOT sensitive to moisture. So, you don't have to wait for a week for the concrete to dry. It is okay to apply it when the concrete is still damp.... damp ok... wet not ok...

Once the BondTite 1101 is applied you can keep going with a solid color product like LiquaTile 1184 etc... or you could just stop there.

There are a whole lot of options that we have... so... the best thing to do is talk to us to determine what is right for you.

The one thing I want to stress is... If anyone tells you that they have the greated product ever and that it is really easy to apply... and... that it is really cheap... RUN! You can kind of use that about most things in life. The OrganiPrep and OrganiStrip products make prep easy... but... they aren't cheap! There is always a trade off... we'll let you know where you stand.

I think I saw an e-mail from you today... Bill Coffey will get in touch with you on Tuesday when he is back in the office...
 

ponjohn

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2006
Messages
237
Location
CT
Eric-

Maybe you can now repsond to my 2 emails and PM about color samples????

John
 
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SteveL

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 14, 2005
Messages
760
Location
St. Louis, MO
Can your product be used over an exsisting Benjamin Moore M36 91 Polyamide Epoxy Coating that has been down for about 3-4 years? I added on to our garage 2 years ago and want to re coat the existing 2 1/2 car area along with the new uncoated 1 1/2 car area. Total sq ft is approx 780. The Benjamin Moore coating has held up very well and only has a couple of very small chips. Will I need to strip or just scuff the surface of the coated floor. I assume that I will need to acid etch the new side. I will be doing this in the spring once the weather starts to get better. Thanks!
 
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WolverineCoatings

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 22, 2007
Messages
833
Location
Spartanburg, SC
Can your product be used over an exsisting Benjamin Moore M36 91 Polyamide Epoxy Coating that has been down for about 3-4 years? I added on to our garage 2 years ago and want to re coat the existing 2 1/2 car area along with the new uncoated 1 1/2 car area. Total sq ft is approx 780. The Benjamin Moore coating has held up very well and only has a couple of very small chips. Will I need to strip or just scuff the surface of the coated floor. I assume that I will need to acid etch the new side. I will be doing this in the spring once the weather starts to get better. Thanks!

I'm going to say... Yes... and then... qualify that. There are products out there that contain silicone or teflon that can be hard to stick to. However, we have not found anything yet that our BondTite 1101 will not stick to. While it's a phenomenal product, there are just too many variables out there to guarantee that it will absolutely stick to everything. I think that 'sticking' to an epoxy polyamide would be a pretty safe bet with some propper prep. However, there is something else to consider.

The Benjamin Moore M36-91 is only a 55% solids product. When it is applied, the solvent must escape and that forms pours. The adhesion of the M36 is MUCH lower than any of our products. The M36 would be like scotch tape if our products were Duct tape. So, if you apply our products (duct tape) over BM M36 (scotch tape), if/when the M36 delaminates, the duct tape is going to come up with the scotch tape since it is on top of it. IF the M36 is really down well then... well... you'd save all that work of taking up the M36.

In your case, I would recommend renting a concrete diamond grinder to prep the new area and grind the coating off of the old area at the same time. It's only going to take maybe 4-5 hours to do the whole thing I would think... so... you'd probably get by with a 1/2 day rental. Then you wouldn't have to fool around with acid etching either.

Please let us know if you decide to go over the existing... someone will make sure you know what to do...
 
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