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Wolverine Epoxy Floor in NC

Rick3Foxes

Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2010
Messages
14
Location
Apex, NC
I have a 640 SF 2-car attached garage that had been neglected since the house was built, and the existing sheetrock had turned brown, the tape was peeling off, the floor had stains, etc…

After I spent most of the winter ripping off pegboard, putting up insulation and sheetrock, finishing, painting and trimming it, I was ready to do something with the floor.

1Before.jpg


1Before2.jpg


1Before3.jpg


1Beforecracks.jpg


After scouring the web for options, I realized that I couldn’t afford RaceDeck, and my options were VCT or epoxy. It seemed like every time I read another forum report, I changed my mind about which to do. Finally, I decided that epoxy was the way to go, and 100% solids was the ultimate epoxy.

By now, I’m over budget, but I had to keep asking myself two questions:
1. How long do you want this to last?
2. How many times do you want to do this floor?

So I chose the product that I “couldn’t afford”: Wolverine Epoxy.

I remember too many times that I have “bought cheap”, and then had to trash it and “buy quality”.

I talked with Fred at AlphaGarage, and placed the order on April 9.

3 days later, Fedex dropped off this:

1Beforekit.jpg


3 Gal Bondtite (2-part epoxy clear primer)
6 Gal LiquaTile in Silver Gray (main epoxy base coat)
1.875 Gal EnduraShield (UV resistant epoxy topcoat)
12 lbs. DecoFlakes (blended to my specs)
1.5 lbs. SuperGrip 850 (anti-slip grit)
1 lb SuperGrip 300 (to make crack-filler)
Spike Shoes
22” notched squeegee


After doing the acid etch, the floor looked ready to go, but only on the spots where I poured it out. The areas where I spread it around were barely etched at all. So I bought more, and repeated the etch (1-4 acid to water mix). While rinsing the acid, and weeping the water out the doors with a push broom, I began to see what looked like hairs on the concrete. I thought the acid might be dissolving the fibers on the broom, so I switched to a smooth squeegee to finish. BAD assumption. Had I looked a little closer, I could have saved myself a lot of anxiety later on...

2Etched.jpg


2Etched2.jpg



I only had some small cracks to fill, so I didn’t buy the 1-gallon can of IntegraFlex. I mixed a small batch of LiquaTile and added SuperGrip 300 (very fine sand) to make a crack-filling compound (thanks to Fred for the suggestion). I filled the cracks and let it dry.

If I had it to do over, I would fill the cracks, and wait until the compound reached the “rubbery” consistency, and scrape it level with a putty knife. It will scrape off pretty easily, but still not pull the epoxy out of the cracks.


3Etchedfilled.jpg



Primer Coat:

I scheduled Friday for a vacation day, so the plan was:
Thursday night – BondTite primer
Friday morning – LiquaTile & Flakes
Friday night – EnduraShield.
But it didn’t quite work out that way…

Here goes the BondTite primer:

4Primer.jpg


4Primer2.jpg


I was a little deceived by the clear appearance of the BondTite, and thought it would go on a little thicker than water. That’s why I decided to do the garage in 2 batches instead of 4.
BondTite IS clear, but it’s nearly the consistency of honey. When I poured it out and started rolling, it was much thicker and stickier than I expected. It definitely wanted to stay right where it was poured. But a few minutes later I had it spread around nicely. I finished the other half also in a single batch.

A few words about the spike shoes… I used them on the primer, the base coat, the flakes, and the topcoat. I wouldn’t dream of trying a floor without them.
But the first hour on them was “difficult”… It took me a while to realize that you can reach, but not LEAN. Every time you lean, your ankles roll over because your foot is wider than the spike area. Once I realized what I was doing, I learned to take a lot of little steps and avoid leaning. Problem solved. BTW, the quality of the spike shoes was much better than the photos indicated. Each spike is an individual hardened, replaceable, sharpened bolt.

Shortly after I finished with the BondTite, I was admiring my work, until I began to realize that something was wrong. Instead of a smooth shiny floor, I was looking at thousands of bubbles.

4Primer3.jpg


4Primer4.jpg


Then I started remembering those hairs that I saw during the acid-etch stage. Fibermesh in the concrete?? I wasn’t there when they poured the slab, but nobody said anything about the fiber. I took some photos and emailed them to Fred.

Fred responded the same evening with 3 possibilities:
1. Gas bubbles coming through the concrete
2. Fibermesh in the concrete
3. Lint fibers coming off the roller cover

After I looked closer, I finally realized that it was indeed Fibermesh, and I should have addressed it before putting anything on the floor.

Now I was convinced that I would have to diamond-grind everything off, burn the fibers with a torch, order more BondTite, and start over.

When I e-mailed my findings (and despair) back to Fred, he called me.
Yes, On the Phone.
(I suppose if I had bought the Home Depot epoxy, somebody there would have called me to help also…) LOL

Fred convinced me that it might not be as bad as I believed, and offered 2 solutions:

1. Since the bubbles were tiny, proceed with the heavy coat of LiquaTile, and allow it and the 12 lbs. of Flakes to cover all the imperfections.
2. Rent a floor buffer with an abrasive mesh pad and try to smooth out the bubbles before proceeding.

No, I didn’t sleep well that night.

Friday morning, I examined, analyzed, debated and stressed over the problem and decided to go with Solution #1. Outside of saving a ton of work, I had 2 reasons: First, I looked at the bubbles with a magnifying glass and saw the whiskers poking out the top. If I sanded down the bubbles, the hairs would still be there. Second, I found a low spot in the floor where the Bondtite had pooled a bit, and the surface was smooth as glass. So I decided to trust the ~15 mils of LiquaTile.

I’m glad I did. The LiquaTile hid the bubbles, and the Flakes hid any imperfections left. There’s no indication of the “disaster” I thought I had.
But I wonder how it would have looked if I had used one of the single-coat 4 mil products on the market. Would it have covered up the fibermesh? Not a chance!

Curiously enough, I just dropped by the Wolverine forum and read a floor report by “Dave”. The photos of his floor after the BondTite look almost exactly like mine! And he didn’t even mention it! He just proceeded on to the next step, and it turned out great.
I could have saved some gray hairs by doing that…

http://www.wolverinecoatings.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1278


To Be Continued...
 
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Rick3Foxes

Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2010
Messages
14
Location
Apex, NC
LiquaTile!

I separated/measured the Flakes into 4 containers and mixed the LiquaTile in 4 batches.

5Chips.jpg


My custom blend of Flakes from Wolverine:

30% Black
30% Charcoal
30% White
10% Red

It’s an experience just to open the LiqaTile and try to put a stirring stick in it. Thicker than pudding! Fortunately, adding the hardener temporarily thins it a bit. This is the most enjoyable step of all, next to the Flake-Casting. The LiquaTile is not only nice and thick, but there’s plenty of it, so it doesn’t look like you’re going to run out as soon as you pour it out.
Another important tool – the notched squeegee. You need a way to move the LiquaTile around the floor before getting out the roller.

5LiquaTile.jpg


Finally, it’s time for the Flakes.
I loved this step. I’m glad I read a lot on this forum before I did it myself. I’ll repeat the two important points: use SMALL amounts between your fingertips instead of a fistful. And toss them UP. Try to hit the ceiling. (They probably won’t.)
They will scatter widely and people will think you had a professional do the job. And once in a while, the flakes will stick together from your finger pressure, and then they actually hit the ceiling and scatter. If they are spread from waist high, a clump will land as a clump.

5LT2.jpg


5LT3.jpg


5LT4.jpg


5LT5.jpg


Attempt #1 at being clever:
I thought that having a slanted handrail could cause a flake distribution problem. If I throw them up, all the chips that land on the rail will slide off the bottom and form a pile at the bottom. Add a piece of tape to catch them.
I’m so smart I scare me. :lol_hitti

5LT6.jpg


EnduraShield (hi-gloss topcoat)

Wow, is this stuff clear!
On top of the shiny LiquaTile, it disappears immediately, just like others had said.

Attempt #2 at being clever:
I had lots of Christmas lights in the attic above the garage, so I strung some of them around the wall to provide some reflective light so I could see where I put the EnduraShield.
No good.
It might work at night, but they aren’t bright enough to help in the daytime.
What a stupid idea! :lol_hitti

6ES1.jpg



I was concerned that the floor would be slippery when driving a car in from the rain/snow (yes, we do get some snow). I also realized that a beautiful glossy finish would lose its appeal if I had to take my wife or mother to the emergency room, so I had to compromise and add SuperGrip to the EnduraShield topcoat. Supergrip 850 is much coarser than Supergrip 300, and is added at the same time as the EnduraShield A + B mixing. Applying this perfectly is a bit of a challenge because the roller wants to “unload” all the grit as soon as it touches the floor. Just allow the roller to touch the floor lightly “on the fly” instead of just setting it down and then rolling.


7Finish1.jpg


7Finish2.jpg


I took a couple of close-ups of the completed finish to show the SuperGrip 850. It’s actually a more aggressive anti-slip than I expected. I considered ordering another coat of EnduraShield to go over top, but my wife brought me back to reality. Walking on it in bare feet feels just fine, and when backing up a motorcycle into the garage, I like lots of traction. I’m glad I left it just as it is. (If I ever did another garage, I might mix up a small batch with EnduraShield 300 for a comparison.)

7Finish3.jpg


7Finish4.jpg


As for the 12” of garage floor that goes past the door, I didn’t want to have the “yellow epoxy” issue that others have faced (Photo was copied from a FAQ at originalcolorchips.com):

7garage-lip-yellowing.jpg




So I spread the BondTite all the way to the concrete seam, taped off the LiquaTile at the door line, and then spread the EnduraShield all the way to the seam.
Over time, the BondTite will begin to yellow, but without a pigment under it, it won’t show.

7Finish5.jpg


Finished up with vinyl cove base:

7Finish6.jpg


7Finish7.jpg


Finally, here is how to turn a great big garage into a little tiny garage:

8Big.jpg


8Little.jpg



Good luck!
Rick.
 
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BL50

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 13, 2010
Messages
88
Location
Michigan
Great post ... thanks for sharing. Your floor looks great. I hope to start my floor project as soon as the weather gets a bit better.
 

Mustanger

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Feb 14, 2010
Messages
105
Location
VA
Great job on the floor. Your flakes do look like a pro put them down.
 

Ruddy

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Joined
Mar 13, 2010
Messages
205
Location
Pollock Pines California
Great job. Totally agree with the spike shoe comment. I learned to do the the little steppy walk too. Kinda remained me of one of those old movies from the 30's or 40's, where they had over the top "Chinese" actors. Had to laugh at myself!
 

Wadd

Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2010
Messages
5
Wow, very nice !!! I can't wait to do mine... But I have a question, after rolling the liquatile, how long do you have before it's too late to spread the flakes ?

I am also very afraid to be too slow (I am, like most of us on this forum, very perfectionist) to roll everything before it set up.

Again, very very nice job there !!! :)
 
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Rick3Foxes

Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2010
Messages
14
Location
Apex, NC
Wow, very nice !!! I can't wait to do mine... But I have a question, after rolling the liquatile, how long do you have before it's too late to spread the flakes ?

I am also very afraid to be too slow (I am, like most of us on this forum, very perfectionist) to roll everything before it set up.

:)

Thanks for the question - it brought up a little story I forgot about...

I put down the LiquaTile on 1/4 of the garage followed by flakes each time, so I was only 15 minutes or so between the two.

So after I did the epoxy/flakes 4 times, a couple of hours had passed. Then I spent an hour staring at the floor, admiring it as much as I was looking for imperfections in the flake pattern...
Then we both went to the back door of the garage to see it from that angle, and my wife noticed that the plastic I had taped over the door had prevented flakes from falling on the 1-inch edge next to the threshold.

Big Deal. I wasn't concerned about that little edge.

But I was in a jolly mood after seeing my project turn out so well, and I goofed off by grabbing a handful of flakes and tossing them on the gap. I knew that they wouldn't stick since that section had been drying for 2-3 hours.
WRONG!
All those chips stuck! So now I have a little spot under the door with FULL chip coverage. :)

Bottom line - You won't have to worry about the LiquaTile drying out before you get the flakes down unless you take a long lunch break.

Actually I have one spot (although I'm probably the only one who could ever find it) that was affected by the opposite problem. I left the LiquaTile too thick in one spot on the last quarter (the thick quarter), and then put down the flakes immediately. I was extremely careful with the scattering, but I noticed an uneven area a while later.

Apparently, the spot of too-thick LiquaTile was still self-leveling when I put the flakes on it, and they "migrated" a bit, creating a shadow of a crescent moon. I guess I should have rolled it out better.

One other thing I learned: When doing a floor in sections, don't scatter ships all the way to the edge of the wet section before spreading the next batch of epoxy.
I did the first section in stupid-mode...
I rolled the epoxy out to a straight edge, and then scattered the flakes all the way past the edge so there wouldn't be a light area. Then I got my wife to vacuum up the excess flakes that fell on dry floor while I mixed the next batch. It created a distinct line of completely flaked epoxy next to the bare primed section.
BAD IDEA.
When I did the next section, it was impossible to scatter flakes up to the line I had made without adding more flakes to the finished section. I spent quite a bit of time on that section border trying to even out the 2 sections.

When scattering flakes, stop before you get to the edge of the wet LT section. Then put down the next section of LT and come back and continue blending in the 2 sections with flakes.

Good Luck!
Rick.
 

pima67

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Dec 5, 2009
Messages
302
Location
Tucson, AZ
I had a similar problem with the etching step using a Quickcrete kit. Using a watering can per instructions produced spotty results. So I drug out pool muratic acid and used a plastic pump sprayer. The only metal part is the pump handle contained with in a plastic tube which doesn't come in contact with the acid mixture. The spay tip allowed better and even coverage.
 

haugy

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Dec 1, 2009
Messages
783
Location
Nashville, TN
Great write up. Thanks.
Quick question about the Super grip additive. How does it affect the overall gloss? I'm on the fence with using it. I see the benefits but question whether or not its really worth it. Not in terms of cost, but in losing that amazing gloss look.

I guess I'm just not keen on dropping that much coin for a floor that looks all rough and coarse.
What are your thoughts in the supergrip?
 
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Rick3Foxes

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Feb 26, 2010
Messages
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Location
Apex, NC
I know what you mean. All the brochures every company puts out shows the absolute glossiest shine that's possible.

At first, that's what I wanted as well.

Yes, the SuperGrip reduces the gloss in an overall wide-angle view. But if you look at the close-up photo above with the dime, and the photos before and after, the shine is still there.

It's just subdued by the texture of the SuperGrip.

That's important, because I think the fact that the glossy finish is still there also means that the clean-up is easy. It's completely different from a smooth floor with a "flat" finish that might be hard to clean.

So I chose to trade some of the shine for the added traction. I think I made the right choice for me, but not necessarily the right choice for everybody.

Just like the Flake/no Flake discussions, it's a matter of personal preference.

Good luck!

Rick.
 

blairlee

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Joined
Mar 11, 2010
Messages
9
Agreed, awesome floor. :)

How did you keep the SuperGrip suspended in the pan as you laid it down? Did you agitate the paint tray or do something else?
 

mat_GTI-R

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Apr 8, 2010
Messages
58
Great job! Looks good!

I find the Wolverine epoxy a bit expensive... how much was it to cover your 2 car garage?
 
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Rick3Foxes

Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2010
Messages
14
Location
Apex, NC
Great job! Looks good!

I find the Wolverine epoxy a bit expensive... how much was it to cover your 2 car garage?

The total came out to just under $2 per SF.

I know what you mean. I felt the same way at first.
Actually, I thought it was outrageous. :bounce:

As I read more about epoxy and read the reports of the people who used it, I started to come around.

Once I decided that I wanted a 2-part primer coat, a custom blend of Flakes to match the trim in the garage, and a UV-resistant 2-part topcoat, it narrowed the playing field... well, down to about one.

And remember to compare mils to mils when pricing. My floor is 26 mils before allowing for waste.

Good luck!
Rick.
 
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Rick3Foxes

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Feb 26, 2010
Messages
14
Location
Apex, NC
Agreed, awesome floor. :)

How did you keep the SuperGrip suspended in the pan as you laid it down? Did you agitate the paint tray or do something else?

No, it seemed to stay suspended pretty well in the pan.

It did accumulate a little on the ribbed section of the pan, but I tried to keep it moving.

I know several areas where the SuperGrip is thicker than others, but for most people, I would have to stand them in a spot with the light reflecting at a certain angle, and tell them where to look.

I know, I know. It's something I can't help. :drool: If the flakes were applied with a robot using a dial indicator, I would still be out there trying to find an imperfection. :lol_hitti

But don't think I'm not happy with the results. I frequently find myself standing in the kitchen door, just looking into the garage and smiling.... (especially when my wife isn't home) :thumbup:

Rick.
 
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