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Wolverine Epoxy Floor

tolken4

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Nov 5, 2007
Messages
330
Just posted this on a thread I started for my garage makeover project. Thought I would re-post the floor project part in the floor forum.

Link to my garage project:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=104251

Hardest part about the epoxy floor was cleaning up the darn garage :) After I cleaned it out, I removed all the cabinets. Next was to have a local guy come in and professionally diamond grind the floor. This was nice because it removed an concerns I had about oil on the ground and he took a little extra time to even out some high spots.

Here is the floor after it was ground.
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Then I power washed the heck out of it. No soap, just water. Seemed like everytime I thought I had it cleaned, I would go back to the beginning and end up with grey water being washed out again:( At some point I finally stopped. Got to the point I wasn't sure that the power washer itself wasn't kicking up some of the concrete :)

After that I ground out all the cracks with my new 4.5" grinder. Add that to the cost column. I used all cheap blades. couple of the really thin ones and two of the thicker ones. No diamond steel type. Blades were all like 2-3 dollars and worked great.

Here are the cracks to be filled, had some pics of them post grinding but can't find them now.
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Wife and I applied Integraflex to fill all cracks. Used the poor from a small cup method. Worked real well. Can certainly say I was better at the end of this than when I started. Think I could have done this more efficiently if I had more skill at it, but the end result was nice.
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Here is a pic of the bondtite all down. Nice and shiny already. This part was real easy. Just premixed a and b and then mixed the stuff together real well. Poored it out, squeegeed and then rolled out. I used a flat, no grooves, 24" squeegee and the 1/4" 18" epoxy glide roller for this step and the Liquitile.
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Here is the floor with the liquitile and flak all done. Below is a video which really shows off the shine. This is dried! I am amazed at the shine on this thing. When I show the video alot of people are actually disoriented at first because of the reflection.:)
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Here are some close ups of the flake pattern or disbursement I ended up with after the Endura-Shield was down. Used very little flake. Probably 2 lbs total of the moody granite for the 750sq ft at most. I should mention I had some extra black flake laying around and mixed a little in to punch it up a bit. Had much more, but kinda decided I wanted it light. Ended up just doing it on the fly and throwing down what looked right. I think the flake "evenness" and look is one of the things I am most happy with and surprised about. I expected this to be much tougher.

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Link to Small video of floor.http://www.flickr.com/photos/93949774@N00/5786934749/
Next up... Waiting to put the cabinets and counter tops back in. Should be this weekend. Can't say enough how happy I am with the way the floor turned out. After I finished the final night at 12:( I actually couldn't sleep. I woke up several times with a recurring nightmare where my wife pointed out something on the floor, then I walked onto the floor and ruined it leaving foot prints because it was wet. Weird dream!

I think it just shows how much I stressed about doing the floor right. But, with reading the heck out of this forum and by using the great support from Fred over at Alpha Garage it came out alright.

Couple of things I would do differently/ more efficiently next time, but I am very happy over all. Most of all I feel a sense of relief that it is done.

Key learnings:

  • Buy lots of buckets of all sizes. Clear with markings for measuring. Lowes carries a nice selection.

  • An 18 inch roller really made the job go quickly. Can't compare it because it is the only job I have done, but I get the sense it is a nice thing to have.

  • Have help. At least one person, actually two is nice.

  • Get extra spikes if you intend on anyone helping you with the flake or some of the rolling. Otherwise the other folks end up watching the spike wearer do all the work.

  • If you are doing endurashield or a similar product make sure you have someone else with a powerful directional light checking your work. Man it is tough to tell what you have done and what you have not done!!!
 
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andersen24

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Jan 7, 2009
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Central Coast, CA
VERY nice job, looks awesome! And you did the right thing by taking your time and making sure the prep work was done before laying down the epoxy!
 
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tolken4

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Messages
330
VERY nice job, looks awesome! And you did the right thing by taking your time and making sure the prep work was done before laying down the epoxy!

Thanks. After lurking on here for the last few years I decided that was probably the most important step. Seemed to be one of the things all manufacturers/installers agreed on.
 
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tolken4

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Nov 5, 2007
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330
Is this the same type of epoxy flooring you buy at home depot?

Well, not sure what all they are selling these days. I am certain they do not sell this exact brand. To date Wolverine is sold threw one place for residential that I know of. Alpha Garage.

This stuff is 100% solids. Most tend to agree, if you can swing it, 100% solids is the way to go if you are going with an epoxy.

I believe there are several brands that sell 100% solids epoxy, but I don't think many of the box store offerings are. Perhaps someone else can chime in on that though? Except for the Epoxy-Coat that is offered thru some of the Lowes or home depots. Sorry can't remember which store.

Two I know of from this board that are 100% solids are Wolverine and Epoxy-Coat. Both tend to get high marks on this journal from my readings.

That is not to say they are identical products. But both also seem to have great customer support as well

Fred = wolverine/alpha garage.
Rugerlady = Epoxy Coat.
 
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tolken4

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Thanks CSP. Yah, I could/should have at least stated that much :) The Wolverine product is different in a lot of ways and a much better product IMHO to most.

Besides all the chemistry stuff and it being 100% solids, which you can find plenty of information on by searching this forum, one major dif is that wolverine offers the Bondtite primer.

Basically Bondtite sticks to the concrete better than an epoxy will alone. Liquitile/Epoxy sticks to the Bondtite. And then, if you choose, which I did, you can put Endura-shield/poly Urethane over the epoxy for the UV resistance added hardness, which is saying something and shine. Again saying that the Endura-Shield adds shine and hardness is really saying something because man that liquitile was SHINY and I know it is hard as heck from reading other post on here.
 
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tolken4

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Nov 5, 2007
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330
Looks awesome, great job!

Did you add any polymer grit to the topcoat? Is your floor slippery when wet?

Thanks. No I did not. I thought real long about doing it though. In the end I decided the only reason I would do that is for when my wife parks her car in there so she or the kids don't slip if it was raining or snowing out.

But, I figured, since we all know there will NEVER be daily drivers parked in there, it is a garage after all :), I would not ever have that problem:lol_hitti
 

lyonkster

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Nov 18, 2009
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433
Location
Portland, OR
I thought a similar thing ("It never rains on Southern California", as the song goes), till I almost did a somersault one day :). I am still pondering what to do (if anything), that's why I am asking around for folks' experiences. Thanks for the feedback.
 
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tolken4

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Nov 5, 2007
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Well, I can tell you this... It would be extremely slick if it ever got oil, antifreeze, water etc. on it.

One option I thought about was to do just the walk ways with the friction modifier. I also heard there are a couple of dif options. A "good" one and a bad one for modifier. Apparently the better of the two is purpose made and not as "sharp" and easier on the mops. Can't remember if it was a brand thing or a material dif. Again maybe someone else knows.

I will send pics first time I fall on my A** and end up in traction :)
 

lyonkster

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Nov 18, 2009
Messages
433
Location
Portland, OR
I also heard there are a couple of dif options. A "good" one and a bad one for modifier. Apparently the better of the two is purpose made and not as "sharp" and easier on the mops. Can't remember if it was a brand thing or a material dif. Again maybe someone else knows.

Yeah, I think that's the difference between aluminum oxide type materials and the polymer grit spheres, which are more rounded. I am leaning towards the latter, but have been unable to date to see any pictures of the finish, and would like to see some before shelling out more $$$ to my boneheaded installer:lol_hitti.

I am trying to be extra careful in the garage, but after doing a 150K service on my wife's Subie last week, and getting the great experience of how slippery some spilled anti-freeze and ****** fluid can become on this floor, I'm not sure I can get away with not doing anything....
 
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