Wolverine primer bondtite pulls off concrete when removed

[ron in sc]

I needed to remove some 1" x 6" treated molding because I decided to put cabinets in that area. The Wolverine flooring was bonded to the molding. I had to use a hammer and chisel to get the Wolverine flooring up where it flowed under the molding. The Wolverine flooring came up in a lot of places with some concrete attached. And those were areas that were not shotblasted or in any way prepped.

 

[Ranger1227]

Which leads me to wonder if using a good product eliminates the need for as much prep work as is posted here as well as by the manufacturers. I just wonder, if you are using a good product, how much prep is truly necessary. Getting off loose flakes, cleaning etc. certainly, but I wonder if etching or shot-blasting or grinding is always required. I know that the lack of prep is the manufacturers' first line of defense when there is a problem,but there are enough people on this board who follow the directions, and then some, on prep, but still have problems.

 

[ron in sc]

Which leads me to wonder if using a good product eliminates the need for as much prep work as is posted here as well as by the manufacturers.

Your point is a good one, but personally I would not want to skip prep work given cost of material and labor to apply it. Plus if things don’t go right you might have a really big problem.

there are enough people on this board who follow the directions, and then some, on prep, but still have problems.

I wonder what product they were using when something went wrong.

 

[Ranger1227]

Ron- I don't disagree with you. The paint on the outside of my house peeled off because the painter did not prep right and we had to hire a sandblaster to come and get all the paint off down to the bare wood. It seems, though, that the better quality product used, the less chance for problems if the prep is not 110% right.

 

[FFPL]

I also had this with my wolverine floor. I had to remove some epoxy to fit some trim where the concrete and plaster met. These where unprepped areas. It was a real challenge to get the epoxy off (it never actually came off). I had to use sharpened chisels and hammer and basically cut it off. But it wasn't easy.
When I first did my floor the epoxy bonded my door tracks to the floor. One of my doors refused to shut as the track need to be moved just a tad. I had to give the track a good number of sharp hits and the epoxy didn't break of the floor but off the track (fresh oily galvanized metal). I was impressed.
Although I wouldn't attempt it, I think it would be interesting to see how an unprepped floor stood up with these better products.

 

[DynoDave]

That's awesome news ron. A real confidence booster to those worried about adhesion problems (me included). Thanks for sharing that!

 

[ron in sc]

One of my doors refused to shut as the track need to be moved just a tad.

I had almost the exact same problem. Door stuck when closing and opening at one particular point. The garage door people came back and adjusted the tracks. On one side he keep hitting the track with a hammer but it would not move. He finally hit it so hard that a piece of the epoxy floor did come up. Again it was in an area, next to the track that could not really be shotblasted or grinded. In this case a small piece came up so I cut out the area a little wider and repaired it. The area I repaired was about 2" x 3". To repair it I just used some liquidtile, no bondtite primer. Then I put some flakes in liquidtile and the next day I put bondtite over that. If is almost impossible to see where I did the repair.

This brand of epoxy at least with the flakes can be repaired and matched very well, at least when you are close to a wall and the repair is small.

 

[drivinhard]

good to know

 

[1320stang]

I'm not suprised. I read that he used to work for Tnemec. I worked for a commercial general contractor once and we were rebuilding a clarifying tank (big round tanks, sort of a $h!t stirrer) at a sewer treatment plant at Tinker AFB. They painted the inside of the tank with Tnemec epoxy paint. I'm not sure exactly what product it was, I know it was grey and came in 5 gallon units to the tune of $700/unit (as I was told). The coaters were putting it down with 3" wide rollers and going back and painting all the holes with model paint brushes as we had sandblasted the inside of the tank and exposed a lot of small voids. Anyways, one of the workers was sweeping up the bottom of the tank and there was a disgarded roller standing on end and was apparently laid down while still wet as it was stuck. The guy tried to hit it with the push broom and broke that. They tried to get it off with a shovel, but it just sort of dented the roller. Finally, the took a 15# sledge and used it like a croquete mallet and it popped up, along with a cone shaped, 6" diameter x 2" deep piece of concrete. The paint was thinker near the roller as it had sloughed off and it bonded to the already painted floor. They were still painting, so they just touched it up.

 

[Mlynch]

every 100 percent solids epoxy with proper prep and penetration into the concrete will do that... you should be more concerned if it doesn't.

and no you cant skip on prep because it is a quality product... it doesnt magically bond because it is a good product it bonds because of open pores from prep work...

 

[Dave88LX]

This is refreshing for the couple problem areas I'm having.