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Wood boring auger bits

FigureItOut

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I need to get some auger bits, and don't really want to spend the money to try a bunch until I get some great ones. I've been using spade bits but they just aren't the right tool for the job.

I need like 3/8" to 3/4" in about 6" & 12" lengths. I'm a bit partial to Bosch but I wanted to see what you fellows recommend. I use a regular drill chuck, not a 7/16" hex, but I've been eyeing the M18 Hole Hawg.

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04chase

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irwin speedbor have been the go to and easily found for me . they like high speed and wont burn up , just dont hit any metal or they are done. I have use them alot running romex through framing.
 

Sam'sAutoParts

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My family does Maple Syrup, I have been using Irwin bits for drilling the holes in the trees. I can usually get about 800 holes out of a bit before its worn out, that is if I don't drop the drill on a rock or something and bend the bit first. I think the COO is Brazil for Irwin.
 

e36jon

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San Francisco CA
I bought several different brands of auger bits when I bought my fixer-upper house and they all 'fail' the same way: the screw-tip loads up and they won't feed. The only fix is cleaning the screw tip out with my pocket knife and then getting back at it. Maybe I am doing it wrong?

I bought Bosch 'DareDevil' spade bits and was blown away at how well they worked. These are the style with a cupped body. They cut faster than the augers and seem to use less power from my 18V cordless drill too.

I needed to cut some larger diameter holes (plumbing) and ended up with Milwaukee 'self feed' bits that have replaceable cutting surfaces. They are beastly and work almost too well. Trying to cut pockets to countersink fastener heads + washers was almost impossible as they just chew too quickly.

Good luck!

Jon
 
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FigureItOut

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How do those Irwins do if you're not hitting the wood dead on? I see that the Irwins have the little spurs similar to a spade bit, which don't work well if you're forced to come in at a slight angle.

I also wonder about chip ejection on that design, where the flutes extend less than the depth of the hole. I'm generally drilling vertically down so chips get aggravating.

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FigureItOut

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Just to update on my question, I got the Irwin as a placeholder/backup, and ordered these Greenlees because I liked the design and COO better. They came in today. They're really nice looking with a substantial feel. Initial tests on scrap 2X4's were quite satisfying, eliciting a Tim Allen like grunt.
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southalabama

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Those Greenlees look nice.

I'm using Irwin that I got a few years back on closeout from either Lowes or Home Depot.
 
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FigureItOut

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Those Greenlees look nice.

I'm using Irwin that I got a few years back on closeout from either Lowes or Home Depot.
I picked up a 3 pack at Lowe's, 5/8, 3/4 & 1" for around $12 I think it was. The Greenlee were, well they weren't $12 for sure. I think about $80 for the three of them, I had an Amazon credit and just got what looked best. They're supposed to stand up well to the occasional nail.

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kctyphoon

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The Irwin and Milwaukee are both very good. We've been using Irwin to drill into telephone poles for years.. I bought a Milwaukee to use with 7/16 hex fuel impact (our corded IR are 5/8 hex) and it does very well. These are both 18" bits.
 
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tarmy

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Using those big augers needs to be done correctly. They bite...hard. Usually you should use low speed revolutions on drill.

Milwaukee has hole hogs for a reason...they are geared for those bits...and have the torque needed to spin them. If you hit a nail they can bind and twist your arm in ways that can break wrists.

Like all good tools...auger bits differ but the drill used should be sized for the job. Those larger diameter bits are chewing up alot of wood...watch out for the drill if it binds...
 

shawhite

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I prefer the eliminator auger bits. They have a carbide cutter and seem to last longer and cut cleaner than any other but I have used. As far as drills go I tend to only use impacts on larger auger bits due to the potential for the bit to grab and twist the drill or my arm/wrist.
 

Sam'sAutoParts

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Speaking of Drills this is my weapon of choice for my purpose, tapping a 1500 tap maple sugar bush. Noisy and a little heavy but no battery to re-charge:rocker: I have 2 of them, my go-to and a backup. Both Tanaka TED-210 earth drills. I also have a TED-232 sitting in the shed that is freakishly heavy and even nosier that I haven't used in 5 years.
 

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decableguy2000

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Really can't go wrong wit a Tanaka drill and 18" Irwin for drilling poles, or Greenlee nail eaters.
 

Crazyjake8493

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irwin speedbor have been the go to and easily found for me . they like high speed and wont burn up , just dont hit any metal or they are done. I have use them alot running romex through framing.

Another vote for Irwin Speedbor, I've got a few and I love them. With a good drill, they'll dig in and pull the drill right through, not much pressure needed. Burnt up a couple hitting nails in studs though.

I've heard good things about the Bosch Daredevil spade bits, but I've yet to try them.

If you need a few long holes drilled, the 3-piece long auger bit set from Harbor Freight works well for cheap, but don't expect them to last long.
 

04chase

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That tanaka is for boring through thick wood, its most commonly a lineman tool as are the 18 bits. Way over kill for 2x4s but if your trying to make a woodpeckers peep hole it will do great.
 

balrog

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Wood Owl makes some nice bits. The Nail Chipper auger bits sail through nails when you inadvertently encounter them in framing.
 

Jlbc212

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In my experience a sharp spade bit will drill a hole in wood just as well as any auger bit without breaking your wrist. They are cheap to buy, extremely easy to sharpen and last a long time. I was using a 1" spade bit yesterday to drill holes through hardwood floor for heating pipes. The first hole i hit a hardened flooring nail. The nail took the edge off the bit, but after a few passes on the bench grinder the spade bit was as good as new.
 

Dennis Leigh Henry

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Really can't go wrong wit a Tanaka drill and 18" Irwin for drilling poles, or Greenlee nail eaters.

That tanaka is for boring through thick wood, its most commonly a lineman tool as are the 18 bits. Way over kill for 2x4s but if your trying to make a woodpeckers peep hole it will do great.

I'm intrigued... pictures?
 
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