Wood Buring Stove Piping Through Wall

[director_gtr]

This is my first thread on here... love the site so far!

I just bought a wood buring stove off craigslist.com so it of course didn't come with any instructions or anything like that. I have shelving around the entire garage at about 6' high so I would like to put the piping through the wall at about 4' off the ground. I know you can buy all the expensive boxes that can fit in the rafters or wall but I am good at making stuff.

My idea is to take a 2' or so 8" single wall pipe, cap it on both sides and cut a 6" hole in the middle of the caps and run a 6" pipe through the the middle giving me a 2" air gap around the main pipe. Has anyone done this? Should I fill the air space with insulation (fiberglass or something) or can I leave it empty? Am I crazy?

Also, the garage is not finished on the interior with insulation or anything. Only 2x4 studs with finished off exterior.

Comments would be greatly appriciated!!!

 

[larry_g]

As you said you can buy ******* that go through the wall so making one is not out of the question. Go to the firestove shop and inspect what they sell and then determine if you can reproduce what they sell. I would do a bit of checking to make sure that your local does not have restrictions on what can be used. A lot of rules have changed in the last few years. Is your stove DEQ approved? I know that in this state you cannot install a nonDEQ stove so a lot of used ones became illegal to install.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[director_gtr]

Great idea to go to a stove shop!

I've never heard of HEQ but the stove is somewhat decorative and looks like it was very
expensive at one time but still have no idea. I just had a thought... probably should call my insurance people to see if I would be covered in case of fire. Luckely for me, the garage is detached from the house.

 

[ixlr8]

What the previous owner of my house did in the garage. He ran plain stove pipe partially up the wall, 90 out the wall. He used a section of Metalbestos triple wall pipe to go through the wall, to a plain stove pipe 90, then 8' up from there to a cap. He also put some sheet metal on the wall, spanning 3 studs where the plain stove pipe was. It has worked well for 20 years, although I suspect it would not pass code in most places.

 

[rickairmedic]

You need tripple wall on a wood stove when it goes through a wall or roof .


Rick

 

[director_gtr]

I'll have to look at some triple pipe. I've only seen double. Thanks Rick

IXLR8,
I was wondering about puting sheet metal on the wall but Couldn't that transfer the heat into the studs? I was thinking maybe puting a air barrier of an inch or 2 between the stud and the sheet.

8' up from the 2nd 90 bend, is that needed more for (don't know the term) helping the outside wind **** out the smoke or is it for keeping the side of the garage from getting discolored? I would rather go about 2' strait out the side and stop. I dont' care about discoloring because I'm planning on painting it just before I move in a few years.

 

[stricht8]

Yes sheet metal on the wall is no good. You need an air space or you can put stove board on the wall.

 

[nehog]

Do not try to make your own... If there is a fire, you have a very high risk at being at fault. A proper thimble is not expensive, save money somewhere else. Also don't forget clearances, and what chimney are you going to use?

 

[larry_g]

You need tripple wall on a wood stove when it goes through a wall or roof .


Rick

Actually that is one of the changes in the last few years. No longer is tripple wall required. I had a new stove installed a year ago and was surprised that tripple was not being used, only double. Checked it out and double is required here now. I even questioned the inspector who came to sign off and he also confirmed.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[director_gtr]

Thanks stricht8 for confirming that.

I just went to menards for some other stuff but I checked out the stove pipes and now I have a better idea of what to get. I was going through my parents attic today and I found 2, 3' pieces of what looks like fully insulated chimney pipe. It's 8" ID and 10" OD.
The outlet on the stove is oval so should I use 6" elbow, 6" thimble, and when I get outside, use an adapter to 8" to get into my chimney pieces up above the roof by a few feet. OR can I forget about the chimney and have a strait pipe out after the thimble a couple feet?
Is a thimble what should be used through the wall? because I thought I saw only single walled ones at menards. Or did I just miss the double?

Does this sound like it will work and be safe?

 

[director_gtr]

OR can I forget about the chimney and have a strait pipe out after the thimble a couple feet?

forget that... I just realized I need the updraft for the smoke to leave

 

[raptorider01]

Great idea to go to a stove shop!

I've never heard of HEQ but the stove is somewhat decorative and looks like it was very
expensive at one time but still have no idea. I just had a thought... probably should call my insurance people to see if I would be covered in case of fire. Luckely for me, the garage is detached from the house.

The first thing to do is call insurance. Most will not allow you to install a wood burner in your garage anymore. I have a detached garage just like you and got shut down by american family insurance on putting one in my garage. They didn't have any problem with one in the house though thank goodness!

On the stove pipe, avoid horizontal runs if at all possible, you'll get the best draw on the pipe that way, and Definitely buy a spindle and the correct pipe if your insurance gives you the green light.

Brian

 

[fireguy]

http://www.selkirkcorp.com/

Triple wall has/had a nasty habit of the center pipe collapsing and allowing the hot combustion gases to come into contact with the outer pipe. Then, if you are lucky, the fire truck will show up before your house/garage burns to the ground.

I do not think triple wall has met code for 20+ years. It was never code for trailer houses.

If you build your own stove pipe, do not allow anything of value into the garage at all. Things of value like your children.

 

[onewaydave]

For good draw, the exit should be as high as possible. 4' does not sound very good.


Says Dave who had to re rout two stove chimmneys for just this reason.

 

[Phuckin' Jim]

Lot's of info here:
http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/51437/

 

[Phuckin' Jim]

......Or you could install something like this:
http://www.outsidewoodheater.com/

The stove itself sits outside, so there should be no prob W/insurance, and it won't take up any valuable floor space.

 

[director_gtr]

Thanks Jim for those sites... good info. I just called my insurance company and they said 'We do not cover a garage heater and if we find out that you have one installed, we will drop your coverage competely'
OH MAN! So now my move is going to be installing the stove outside... I'm gonna take a few pictures of the stove all around and post them so you guys can see what I'm working with. I havn't really looked it over that well to see where I can attach a blower to get the heat into the garage.

Is there anything I need to know about doing it this way now? I should need a cold air return from the garage right? Or can't I do that because of gasses in the garage?? Oh dear

 

[PurdueSD]

Thanks Jim for those sites... good info. I just called my insurance company and they said 'We do not cover a garage heater and if we find out that you have one installed, we will drop your coverage competely'

Thanks you for answering my questions Mr. Agent, unfortunately I am going to have to let you go. Ive got about 30 RFQ calls to other insurance companies to make!

 

[director_gtr]

Thanks you for answering my questions Mr. Agent, unfortunately I am going to have to let you go. Ive got about 30 RFQ calls to other insurance companies to make!

EXACTLY!!!

 

[smokie]

Hello folks. I'm usually the quiet guy who looks and listens. I may have a little input for you on this subject. My insurance company said I COULD NOT have solid fuel heat in a building capable of housing a vehicle. Although, if the firebox was at least 6 feet from the structure it would not effect my policy. Here is my solution. I also saved a whole lot of shop space. Any questions just ask.

 

[6768rogues]

Wood burns at about 500 degrees. If you heat it up enough times, a strange chemical thing happens (pyrolysis) and the combustion temperature can go as low as 175 degrees. That is why an improper chimney can seem safe for years and then the building burns down. I would use a listed factory part made for the purpose.

 

[Kevin54]

When hooking up a flue on a woodburner, make sure the flue is connected in the right direction. Most will hook up a flue like an exhaust system with each pipe goinf into the other from the stove out. I found out from a stove company a few years back that it is wrong to do it that way. From the stove out, each pipe goes on th eoutside of the next. Reason being is that the smoke will draw through the flue but when it heats up creosote can run back. If creosote runs back you want to contain it IN the flue and not run on the outside of the flue.

 

[burleymike]

I learned that one the hard way. Years ago in our first house the wood stove was our only source of heat. One night I noticed a strong BBQ smell when I came home. I thought my wife was cooking ribs or something.

When I went to load some wood into the stove I saw black streaks running down the pipe from the support box. It smelled just like BBQ, we had been burning apple wood that winter. I asked her grandpa if he had ever had that happen and he informed me I had installed the pipe backwards. I flipped all the black pipe around that weekend and never had another problem.