Wood deck over concrete?
- Thread starter Mopar_Ray
- Start date
Zeke
Well-known member
Just set concrete piers in thinset if you can build up. Otherwise place joists slightly above the concrete for drainage and attach with various L brackets and Tapcons. If you have only a little height available you will install boards on the flat called sleepers. You can use fasteners directly through the face but you still need some space for drainage. Some will use asphalt shingle pieces to lift the boards. Use PT lumber in all cases under the deck itself.
On thing here is that you can build the deck level whereas the concrete most likely slopes. Crud will accumulate under the deck so make it so you can clean underneath by blowing or hosing or both.
On thing here is that you can build the deck level whereas the concrete most likely slopes. Crud will accumulate under the deck so make it so you can clean underneath by blowing or hosing or both.
wburke2010
Active member
- Joined
- Aug 24, 2014
- Messages
- 35
why not just use a concrete grinder and grind it back smooth. I am sure there is a rental store around you that will have one. We get about 100 bucks a day for one and you could use the weekend to your advantage to grind it and just have one day for rental. Would be a lot cheaper than building a new wood deck and it would still be nice concrete that wouldn't rot.
Walter
Walter
rieferman
Well-known member
That's a cool product
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
I built a deck over a concrete porch probably 25 years ago, and it is still there today. The concrete was in bad shape, so I put down 2x6 sleepers (joist) and added the deck on those. It made for a nice solid deck.
Exactly what I was thinking of doing. Only problem I see is my stoop is 7" tall, if I add a 2" sleeper & and a 2" deck it will be 10", too high of a rise and sure it wouldn't make code. May require a different plan.
383
Well-known member
How about a picture or two ? They generally help out leading people in the right direction as far as advice goes.
Not the best picture but
Attachments
It appears as though it has settled down a few inches. I think I might consider tearing it out to make sure there is no water damage or anything to the foundation.
Not sure if it has settled, at least not in the last 11 years I've lived here, the space between stoop and doorway has always been there. Some of what you're seeing between brick wall and stoop is caulk that badly needs to be redone. House sits on a full unfinished basement and shows no signs of any water damage in basement?
Joe Reed
Well-known member
How about using something like this to resurface the existing concrete...
http://www.quikrete.com/AtHome/Video-Resurfacing-Concrete-Slabs.asp
http://www.quikrete.com/AtHome/Video-Resurfacing-Concrete-Slabs.asp
dadsEH
Well-known member
Just pour new Crete on top.....end of story.
bczygan
Well-known member
Install ceramic tile, bluestone, flagstone, slate of another fairly thin stone or man made material.
I was looking at the area behind the toy. If you follow the brick line.
tcianci
Well-known member
Armchair engineer warning!!!
The Op has accurately stated and illustrated the site conditions. Your "settling" is simply the pitch to which the concrete was finished when it was installed. On this planet, water runs down hill.
I'm quite well of water running down hill and appreciate compliment of armchair engineer coming from you.
I'm not there is person but I did ask for the OP to show us a picture. I'm merely trying to make the sure the OP doesn't have an issue that he needs to be worried about and that he is looking at the same thing that I'm looking at it the picture. If he has no issues, that's great news.
BTW, if the brick line is level, it appears that way, the distance behind the toy to the corner appears to grow, to me.
DC73
Well-known member
If you could figure out a proper border, it looks like you could install brick pavers on a bed of sand.
DC
Zeke
Well-known member
I finally looked at the pic hard enough to see that the porch was finished like that on purpose. It's a technique we are all familiar with called exposed aggregate. The finisher sprays a retardant or sugar on the surface and waits 2 hours to wash the fat off exposing the aggregate. A light muriatic wash further brightens the stone. It's a perfect surface to do almost any of the suggestions here so far except tearing it out. Just clean it well beforehand. Lots of mold and dirt lives in the pores.
The world is your oyster.
The world is your oyster.
Homerr
Well-known member
I have a similar situation and recently snapped a pic of this porch as an idea of what I'd do to my place.
DRP6833
Well-known member
"How to Build a Deck Over a Concrete Patio" from Family Handyman.