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Wood fence basic knowledge &tips

BLACK DEATH

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Oct 16, 2011
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572
Location
CC texas
I will be building a privacy wood fence here soon and i was hoping you guys that have the knowledge & experience would share it with me or us. Well ill throw sime questions out and maybe yiu know the answer. I think my codes here say no higher than 6.6' but maybe 7' is good.
What size 4x4 should i get?
Im sure i should get treated 4x4s right?
How deep should the posts be?
How far apart should the posts be?
How much concrete for each post?
Should the 2x4s that go between each post be treated?
How many 2x4s go between the posts? 2 or 3?
How do the 2x4s get mounted to the posts and where at on the posts?
Should i use screws or nails for 24 to post mounting?
How far apart should the pickets be placed?

Thanks guys and i am sure ill have more questions soon.
 
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D.J.

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Sep 16, 2009
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1,116
Location
New Haven IL
4 X 4 x 10 for 6.6' or 7'
yes
at least 1/3 of total length
how big are you making your panels?
1 bag per post
I would say yes
my guess three
rabbit the posts or flush to the sides of the verticle posts with "toe-nailed" screws
Screws with square drive phillips heads
I'd flush mount them and when they dry out the spacing should be about right
 

acer66

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Dec 4, 2010
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4,418
Location
Western North Carolina
How deep depends a little on the ground, 2' hole is a starting point.
Try to stay under 8' feet distance.
If you use regular (pine etc) wood use pt..
Know your property line and stay around two inches on your side otherwise the fence might also become your neigbors property.
Do not build higher than allowed by code, only brings trouble.
Check for utilities, cable etc before digging.
Corner, gate posts etc. I would use 6x6.
Start with corner posts and run strings between them and stake them so you create a visual nice line.
 
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carap

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Joined
Aug 17, 2010
Messages
69
Location
OKC
I prefer metal post. They make brackets that slip around the post to mount the 2X4 to. You must use caps on the post or they will fill with water and freeze. Bolt the 2X4's to the bracket using lag bolts. Set a picket at each end and run a string line across the top of the two end pickets. Screw the pickets to the 2X4 using deck screws using the string line as a heights reference. I always use a 16 penny nail as my spacer between pickets.
 

Hephaestus29

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Mar 13, 2011
Messages
2,978
Location
Indianapolis
If you're going to build it out of wood good luck finding any straight 1x6 boards, I went through about 10 to find 1 good one when I built my wood privacy fence. I later put up a vinyl fence for my parents & I will go that route if I ever have to do it again for myself.
 

srmofo

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Joined
Oct 15, 2009
Messages
6,161
Location
SW ohio
I will be building a privacy wood fence here soon and i was hoping you guys that have the knowledge & experience would share it with me or us. Well ill throw sime questions out and maybe yiu know the answer. I think my codes here say no higher than 6.6' but maybe 7' is good.
What size 4x4 should i get?
Im sure i should get treated 4x4s right?
How deep should the posts be?
How far apart should the posts be?
How much concrete for each post?
Should the 2x4s that go between each post be treated?
How many 2x4s go between the posts? 2 or 3?
How do the 2x4s get mounted to the posts and where at on the posts?
Should i use screws or nails for 24 to post mounting?
How far apart should the pickets be placed?

Thanks guys and i am sure ill have more questions soon.

I used 8' treated 4x4, but wish I would have paid the extra money for the douglas fir

I dug mine 30" deep, then filled the bottom 6" or so with crushed stone to allow for drainage. I also belled shaped the bottom of the hole to keep frost heave to a minimum. I nailed in 1 coated 16d nail into the bottom of the 4x4 to keep it from just pulling out of the set concrete. Obviously slope the concrete away from the pole after it starts to set. I wet set mine regardless of what the pros do, I just didnt feel comfortable dry setting them and allow ground moisture to do the work.

Leave the 4x4s a few extra inches long and cut them off once the fence is complete, then reseal or cap the post.

I made the decision that 8' would be the max distance between posts. Then I measured and calculated the distance to end up with approx the equal distance between each post. Dont count on being able to place them exactly 8' apart because when you hit a large rock and have to move a post a few inches you will have to buy a longer stringer, its also terribly difficult to get them set perfectly distanced apart if its your first go with a fence.

If using a power auger I suggest getting the 12" auger and not the 8". Your holes will probably be a little "off" if you dont do this every day. I know mine were and I had to widen a few holes by hand. The down side to the bigger bit is more fill and concrete, especially if you bell shape the holes.

Yes use treated stringers, 3 of them. I also pre-drilled the stringers to prevents splitting when attaching to the posts. Mine are attached to the face of the posts, not the edges.

When I did mine I set the corners first and then ran string so I could set all of my stringers straight in line. When I finished with the stringers I set a picket on each side and then ran string across the top of them so I could just place the picket on and bump it up to the string then drive my screws. Again I used the coated torx fasteners.

Place your pickets right next to each other, they will shrink considerably and leave that perfect gap.

Work from the corners in, when you start getting within 2-3 feet do a calculation to figure out how many boards left and then trim the last remaining ones by no more than an 1/2 or so you end up perfect without a noticable "skinny" picket. Same concept as doing tile except your trimmed pieces are in the middle instead of the edge

on steep hills, step the pickets. and on shallow slopes just follow the curve.

There is some pics of my fence in my link below. If you have any more questions just hit me up. I also received some pretty good advice on my fence if you want to search the thread I started on it.

You will find much better lumber at a yard vs the box stores.

I used 6x6 posts where I planned on having a larger gate, you can see them in one of my pics
 
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Jackfre

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Dec 26, 2010
Messages
4,407
Location
N CA
I'm in the process of doing same. I've built only one section but the boss gave the ok on design, so I'll be moving forward with the rest soon. I used treated 4x6's, 8' spacing. Tarred the underground portion and did a 3bag (60#) pour. My fence is 6-6. I put three treated 2x4's inlet to the off side of the fence so they are flush. I then used 1x6 vertical cedar to fill. I have a mill about 5 mi from the house that does full 1x6 dimensions on the cedar. I also did a cedar 2x4, dadoed to fit over the top of the fence as a cap. I ran it thru the router to prevent water sitting on it. It sits about 6" below the top of the posts. I'm going to some kind of top to prevent deer getting in. May be a wire top, may be rebar, but it will end up being close to an 8' deer fence.
 
OP
B

BLACK DEATH

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Joined
Oct 16, 2011
Messages
572
Location
CC texas
What about a rot board or however it is spelled?
I would go to a good lumber yard but i have about $500 in gift cards i paid half price for so i gotta use that money up first or maybe get the treated wood etc from lowes and the pickets from a better place.
 

volvo

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Joined
Feb 19, 2006
Messages
1,304
Location
PNW 45th Parallel
..
The fence experts do not recommend treated stringers ( just posts), because they will almost always warp, curve, bend. My last fence was made out of doug fur and was only stained once and lasted 35 years before replaced. ( wet Oregon weather).
Treated posts, fur stringers ( cedar $$-soft), cedar pickets unless redwood is cheaper.
Use a true 3/4 picket from a good local lumber yard better, cheaper than **** big box stores.
 
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Wes Tex

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Joined
Jan 12, 2012
Messages
362
Treated wood will twist and warp in the Texas sun. It is better to use metal poles. I would save time and money by wedging rocks around the bottom of the poles and pour in about a half sack of dry concrete mix. The moisture in the soil will be drawn to the concrete for a hard set. Just add some water when done if you want to speed it up. This even works in dry West Texas.
 

Falcon67

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Joined
Jun 11, 2009
Messages
18,371
Location
Merkel, TX
Galvanized terminal chain link posts, hole deep enough to put pole top at 5' 6" ~ 5'8", set 6' apart, Simpson pipe grip ties, 12' long 2x4 stringers (3), hang your pickets on that, #6 galvanized ring shank nails.
http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/PGT.asp

Screw 4x4s - good luck finding a straight one.

I moved three 12' x 6' wood fence sections in a 40 MPH wind. Fun. Thats why I set the poles at 6' spacing, you should see how a fence section bows when the wind gets above 25 MPH. 40 MPH will take your panels and poles out of the ground after a while.
 
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buzz4041

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Sep 13, 2011
Messages
730
Location
South Texas
I live in Corpus also and I would think your going to use Cedar since that is the norm. If you want your hard work to last I would put a coating of preservative on it. That will bring out the beauty of the wood and will repell the sun and rain for about 2 years a coat. As all the other fences are rotting yours will still look lush and pristine. You can see the neighbors and ours and tell the difference in them. I use Olympia products and I use the tinted type to redwood.I will post a few pics later. The thompsons or the baer work good to.
 

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Wes Tex

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Jan 12, 2012
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362
WOW! For those of you in other parts of the country, we had a good old fashion, west wind howling, all day dust storm in West Texas today. In the middle of this Falcon67 moves a wooden fence. Lucky he did not fly over my garage today.
 

R6 Racer

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Joined
Feb 21, 2010
Messages
1,632
Location
Northern Ontario Canada
You guys down south are lucky.
Here we need fence posts to be at least 3 full feet into the ground. If not the frost will lift them for sure. Posts... if you are set on wood I would strongly suggest P.T.6x6! In 5 years you will be very happy you went that way. My next door neighbour had a 4x4 post break off right at ground level a few weeks back during a windy rainstorm.

PLAN! Don't just start with an idea. Have everything figured & measured before you start!
I use what is here referred to as "deck boards" or 5/4" boards for my pickets. These boards measure a full 1" thick & getting straight fence pickets/boards is way easier. For my 6' fence I bought 12' long 6"x5/4" deck boards & cut them to make the pickets.

Good luck with your project!
 

Falcon67

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Jun 11, 2009
Messages
18,371
Location
Merkel, TX
LOL - they were making big power up on the mesas yesterday for sure. This morning on the gauge - 1 MPH. Figures.

To the OP - I've put up a lot of different fences. Landscape timbers, 4x4s, rail ties, t-post & welded wire, chain link. The kind I like the best is what we have now and that I described. It goes up pretty quick and is easy to service over the long haul. Setting the first run of posts at 12' takes the most time and uses a standard dimension rail. It's about like chain link - run a base line, set the far terminal post, set your post height string, set/plumb the line posts. You set the intermediates after the rails are up because you've already set the fence line and the intermediate posts just screw to the fence rails. Just drop them in the hole, slide on the lower pipe grip, attach with one screw, plumb the post in line with the fence, put on the other two grips, 11 more screws, drop in some concrete and done. I shoot for 24" in on a 6' post - that's about as far as I care to go with a post hole digger. If I don't quite make that on the intermediate posts - well, that's why they sell Sawsalls.
 

Full Size 66

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Jan 1, 2009
Messages
298
Location
Wa.
My humble advice is to go with no more than 7 feet between posts. Do all your staining before instalation. Use string lines to get it straight, levels to get it plumb. My best purchase was a nail gun to put on the fencing. Most of all have fun doing it....:)
 

ChristopherLutz

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Jun 17, 2010
Messages
270
Location
Flower Mound, TX (DFW)
+1 on the metal posts with brackets for the wood. The verticle posts in the ground are the weakest link in your fencing.

The cost of material can be a big - how long will you live in this location? Most fence wood will last a long, long time if you treat it properly.
 

Falcon67

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Jun 11, 2009
Messages
18,371
Location
Merkel, TX
12' of fence - 3 ea 12' 2x4s, two heavy duty 8' posts (tying on to existing), 6 brackets, 41 white wood gothic pickets, 250 nails (pro-rated out of a box of 1000 #6 hot dipped), had deck screws for brackets - $118ish. About 9.90 a foot.
 

shanker

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Jun 27, 2005
Messages
1,259
Location
Portland, TX
lots of good advice here...

being that we're in an area with HEAVY CLAY soil and harsh environment...I'de recommend Cedar Pickets (no treated, they'll warp & shrink too much) and putting the posts no less than 1/3rd total length below grade...
 

KenC

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Dec 20, 2009
Messages
2,578
lots of good advice. One more small item that can make a LOT of difference, esp in windy areas.

I've seen issues with the concrete around the post cracking from the corners of 4x4s due to wind load. When that happens the concrete will actually move away from the post a little at a time. finally gets pretty loose.

So, use a length of heavy galvanized wire, good barbed fence wire will work, make a circle about 10" in diameter and twist the ends together. Drop it around the post when you're about 4-6"from filling the hole with concrete.

Really strengthens and prevents cracks from wind load or freezing.
 
Joined
Jun 30, 2011
Messages
1,080
Location
AZ
Home Depot now carries the composite wood Trex type slats that are used on gates. They are about 1/2" thick, wood tectured, cedar look and no maintenance. I think they come in two widths, 3 1/2" and 5" or so.

I just did a double gate with them;

69889625.jpg
 

fionasdad

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Joined
Aug 17, 2011
Messages
21
Location
Elk Grove, California
In my case I'm replacing a fence were the bottom peice is a 1 X 12.

I'm using metal posts and rather then use the 1 X 12. I put one peice of treated lumber on the bottom and then the 1 x 6's on top and then use three stringers.

The treated luber protects the 1 x 6s and are a lot cheper than a 1 X 12.
 
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