Wood finish for lathe table

[dogzbody1]

I need the collective's advice on a finish for my lathe bench. I just collected a South Bend 9B complete with a home made bench. The lathe and bench hail from the 50's, both are awesome but clearly no oil tray was used and the wooden top is oil soaked and too smelly for the basement.

I've collected some new wood to replace the top and would like an oil resistant finish - even though I plan to use a drip tray. What kind of finish would provide me a chance to wipe down the bench after use to prevent it from ending up in the same state as the original?

(Suggestions on Type and brand of finish would be greatly appreciated!).

Thanks!

 

[Craptain]

Epoxy. It's a bit overkill if you intend to use a tray, but resistant to almost everything. Get a kit like they use for bar tops.

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[jimgood]

I agree with the epoxy. It's a lot easier than you might think. I recently did a coffee table with it and like the results. I would do it again. The brand I used was actually more simple than the instructions would lead you to believe.

I draped plastic sheet over two saw horses. Put the coffee table top on that, supported just above the plastic with a couple scraps of wood. Make sure it's as level as possible. Mix a small batch of the epoxy (50/50) and brush it on with a foam brush as a "sealer coat". Then mix a large batch and pour it on. Spread with a plastic spreader and let it run over the sides and drip onto the plastic. Allow at least 24 hours to cure; longer is better.

They make a big deal about the room temperature being minimum 75 degrees but I was able to get by with 65, though I did put a space heater under the table.

 

[dogzbody1]

Thank you both!

 

[catalytic]

Yes -- epoxy. You want a true 2-part epoxy that you have to mix, not the fake junk kind that claims to be epoxy but you don't actually mix anything.

Wear a GOOD mask to apply it. You should read the MSDS sheet and the solvent resistance sheet before you open the can. You don't want epoxy curing in your lungs.

Spray on would look prettier, but some epoxies are self-leveling and will brush on fine. Brushing on makes much less mess and you breathe a lot less. Since it's a lathe table and not fine furniture, I'd be tempted to brush.

 

[barret]

I have a 50's 9A. Used 2 layers of 3/4" Baltic for the benchtop on a similar older metal frame. 3 Coats of Spar varnish have held up well for 3 years with minimal oil takeup. Also consider making or buying something as a chip tray for under the lathe between the two feet. That should help. I use an aluminum half sheet baking tray. Works great, but could even go bigger.

 

[rsanter]

If it was me I think I would see if I could find a metal drip pan that happens to be the right size for the bench. Then you can just seal/paint the bench and install the metal drip pan on the bench under the lathe

Bob

 

[EdT]

Put some laminate countertop material on it or sheet metal. Either would probably be cheaper and easier than the epoxy. White laminate would get dirty, but help to brighten up the work space a lot. It's real easy to clean and is pretty much solvent proof.