Wood floor installation advice

[branimal]

I am installing 3/4” red oak t&g strips onto the subfloor. It was previously a tiled area. The goal is to match the surrounding wood area - also 3/4” red oak. I’ve got a few questions on the process as this is my first wood floor install. I have a compressor and Freeman flooring gun.

1. When I lined up strips of new wood next to the existing wood I found some strips sat low and others proud. Do I shim low areas and sand down the proud areas to get rid of ridges? See pic.

2. There will be an obvious line where the new wood is installed (see top of 2nd pic). Do I cut back some existing strips at random lengths to blend in the new pieces? Is a multitool the preferred tool for the job?

3. When installing a new length of wood strips should I try to get similar grain looking pieces next to one another or is random the way to go?

4. Should I mix and match lengths of wood randomly?

Thanks







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[shepherd]

When I did mine, I laid tar paper over the subfloor, helps quiet any sqeaks and noise that may pop up with seasonal movement. You could double up the layers on the low spots to match the older wood. It's going to be hell to cut individual strips straight across to blend into those cut areas. I would either run a border strip, if you're inclined you could actually make it a feature with a lighter color stain. If you really want it to blend, I would go ahead and cut the individual strips, and maybe use a small router with a jig to square up the ends.

 

[branimal]

When I did mine, I laid tar paper over the subfloor, helps quiet any sqeaks and noise that may pop up with seasonal movement. You could double up the layers on the low spots to match the older wood. It's going to be hell to cut individual strips straight across to blend into those cut areas. I would either run a border strip, if you're inclined you could actually make it a feature with a lighter color stain. If you really want it to blend, I would go ahead and cut the individual strips, and maybe use a small router with a jig to square up the ends.

I picked up some red rosin paper, but I agree - the felt roof paper (tar paper) would prevent squeaks. I’ll pick some up.

I could use my multitool to cut off the tongues of the existing strips and then pry out a few random pieces. Those pieces would be replaced by new strips with their tongues cut off. This would effectively hide the line. But is cutting the tongues off a bad idea? Will a tongue-less strip wiggle around and create squeaking?

How would you build a jig to square up the ends of the cut strips?

Thanks




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[Chris705]

I think you are on the right track to cut out/remove strips of the existing flooring and weave in the new. I would start in the doorway and work towards both directions, cut a “loose” tongue to work in the opposite direction. To get the old boards out just run a skip saw up them, use a chisel to break that last remaining portion and gently pry tongues free, remove nails. All this is assuming you’re using unfinished flooring & will drum sand everything smooth. No need to shim boards level.

 

[branimal]

I think you are on the right track to cut out/remove strips of the existing flooring and weave in the new. I would start in the doorway and work towards both directions, cut a “loose” tongue to work in the opposite direction. To get the old boards out just run a skip saw up them, use a chisel to break that last remaining portion and gently pry tongues free, remove nails. All this is assuming you’re using unfinished flooring & will drum sand everything smooth. No need to shim boards level.

Chris - yup I’m using unfinished flooring and I am hiring a guy to drum sand.

Why don’t i need to shim low spots?



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[The Cobbler]

are you expecting the repair to be unnoticeable?
is the new wood the exact same width as the existing?
weaving new wood in to randomize the joints is a good idea, does the t&g match the existing? you will have to face nail those pcs in .
you don't need to match the height per-sai, the sander will take care of that .
I doubt the new patch will go unnoticed , if you're looking for a perfect match.

 

[jake00]

I’m a hardwood guy... yes, you want to lace in... to knock the old boards out, drill a 3/4” hole through the board near the end, insert a piece of rebar and hit with a sledge, a few whacks and the board will slide out. Do it well and you’ll never see the lace in.

Don’t match up the “grain”. Put it in randomly

 

[branimal]

I’m a hardwood guy... yes, you want to lace in... to knock the old boards out, drill a 3/4” hole through the board near the end, insert a piece of rebar and hit with a sledge, a few whacks and the board will slide out. Do it well and you’ll never see the lace in.

Don’t match up the “grain”. Put it in randomly

Jake - interesting technique. If the old boards were T or L cleated in will this still work?

Thanks.


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[branimal]

are you expecting the repair to be unnoticeable?
is the new wood the exact same width as the existing?
weaving new wood in to randomize the joints is a good idea, does the t&g match the existing? you will have to face nail those pcs in .
you don't need to match the height per-sai, the sander will take care of that .
I doubt the new patch will go unnoticed , if you're looking for a perfect match.

Cobbler - same width - 4”. Old wood has beveled edges. New does not.

T&G seems to slide together ok for the few boards I’ve tried.


Yep I’ll face nail with a brad nailer. 1 1/2”.

Gonna try to match as best I can.




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[jake00]

Jake - interesting technique. If the old boards were T or L cleated in will this still work?

Thanks.


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Yessir.

 

[branimal]

 

[ChaseDE]

So you are saying even with the existing cleated in, if you drill a hole in the end and smack it with a sledge it will pop out? Hard to believe but I am not an expert. I did my living room to match my existing similar to this and the size and strength of those cleats seem like they would laugh at this technique.

 

[branimal]

I tried 2 techniques.

1. Jakes technique banging it out with a rod and sledge hammer. The tongues on the garbage piece will break and the board will come out

2. Circ saw the trash piece in half lengthwise. Pry it out. Works as well. Could be more risky as you can break a non-garbage boards tongue.









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[jake00]

Check out my buddy’s video on the lace in https://www.woodfloorbusiness.com/installation/making-lace-ins-so-much-easier.html