dink
Well-known member
I am tossing things through my head for shelves for my future garage....if I decide to go wooden shelves my question is.....what would be the best type of wood to go with that will last a long time....i wont go cheap
Wood for shelves
- Thread starter dink
- Start date
I guess an answer from a wood woker or builder of some sort would be better. But personally, I've always used pine (usually in sizes left over from other projects!) and had no trouble. Used in thicknesses appropriate for the weight they will carry, and properly braced, they've been fine. They weren't always so, but are now sanded, primed, and painted (burgnudy and white), with a trim edge to stop things from rolling off. Use a quality oil based paint, and they will last almost forever. Or at least as long as you will.
A photo of one of my lighter weight shelves is attached. As descibed, it's pine, cut, primed, and painted burgundy. It is attached with some horizontal screws into the 2x4 stud frame for the peg board it sits above, with 3 std. metal shelf bracket for extra support (painted white), white painted trim/egde, and an old office light (was tan, painted white) hanging under it. This one holds some of my STP/Sinclair collection!
Light Shelf
A photo of one of my lighter weight shelves is attached. As descibed, it's pine, cut, primed, and painted burgundy. It is attached with some horizontal screws into the 2x4 stud frame for the peg board it sits above, with 3 std. metal shelf bracket for extra support (painted white), white painted trim/egde, and an old office light (was tan, painted white) hanging under it. This one holds some of my STP/Sinclair collection!
Light Shelf
NHCharger
Well-known member
Caa-Chiingg.dink said:
I'm a builder. I built myself a garage/workshop (pics buried on page 7 in the garage gallery). All I used for shelving was 2x4's and 7/16 OSB. All my shelves are 2' deep. I run a 2x4 across the front and run a cross brace every 2'. I attached a pic of the shelves in my garage. I had just finished building them, their alot more cluttered now. I have approx. 120 L/F of 2' deep shelving which equals 240 square feet. The total cost of the material was $250.00. I couldn't imagine the cost of oak, definately in the thousands. As Dave mentioned as long as they are built right your all set. If your concerned about moisture over a long period of time you could paint the shelving on all 4 sides before you install it.
Attachments
Yea I am thinking long term moisture exsposure.....I really dont want the rotted look....its not something I go for....also I want something hard like oak...so I know it will hold up to different weight situations
My shelving....whatever it will be wouldnt be that detailed like you have it....I was thinking just normal shelves that are mounted to the wall
My shelving....whatever it will be wouldnt be that detailed like you have it....I was thinking just normal shelves that are mounted to the wall
imported_banzaitoyota
Well-known member
I wouldnt use OSB for my decking, thats My humble opinion
http://www.gorillarack.com/
I used this set-up from Costco, 4 ft wide, 18" deep and 6 ft tall it was like $60. Home Depot & Lowes has someting similar thats 2 ft deep.
I used this set-up from Costco, 4 ft wide, 18" deep and 6 ft tall it was like $60. Home Depot & Lowes has someting similar thats 2 ft deep.
douging
Member
Rickster said:
My company has used Gorlla Racks almost exclusively for 10 years. Perforated metal frames that are easy to assemble with a mallet. And you can change the shelf heights around any time you want. The only downside is the particleboard shelf deck. We replaced a lot of them with ordinary plywood and it's been bulletproof. We use them to hold everything from taillights to transmissions (particleboard wasn't up to supporting transmissions tho).
I'm not a builder but I would definately put these in my house.
MXtras
Well-known member
OSB? - No. Ugly, sags, wouldn't use to soak up dog piss in my garage.
Particle board? - No. sags under weight.
MDF? - No. Sags under weight, just not as quickly as Particle board.
Pine? - No. Warps and twists and the sap *****.
Spruce or Douglas Fir? - not bad. Get a clear board and it will perform similarly to oak, just not as majestic.
Oak? - of coarse. Oak is premium lumber and performs accordingly.
Cherry? - now we're getting stupid.
I would use spruce unless you have deep pockets and can spring for the oak. I doubt you would be dissatisfied with spruce.
Scott
Particle board? - No. sags under weight.
MDF? - No. Sags under weight, just not as quickly as Particle board.
Pine? - No. Warps and twists and the sap *****.
Spruce or Douglas Fir? - not bad. Get a clear board and it will perform similarly to oak, just not as majestic.
Oak? - of coarse. Oak is premium lumber and performs accordingly.
Cherry? - now we're getting stupid.
I would use spruce unless you have deep pockets and can spring for the oak. I doubt you would be dissatisfied with spruce.
Scott
trovato
Well-known member
What about plywood? Properly consructed, you can make stuff very strong out of plywood. You can even get it with oak or other fancy veneer if you want to impress the neighbors.
trovato
Well-known member
dink said:
I guess I disagree with that. I think it is more stable than a solid wood. Solid wood tends to warp as it dries and and change dimension with humidity changes. These are the challenges that furniture craftsmen deal with all the time. Plywood is much more predictable. I don't know what you mean by not lasting very long. Are you going to wear through the outer veneer?
MXtras
Well-known member
Never built anything out of hickory - don't know. I have used oak, spruce, maple, redwood, cedar, pine and walnut over the years to make various things but never hickory. To me, hickory is a town in North Carolina, I believe.
I use plywood for my home shop and steel or aluminum for my shop. The shelves in my shed WERE spruce until it got hit by lightning a few months ago and was gutted. Now they are ash.
I have no problems with plywood, personally. I attach a 1X2 to the front edges to help it out and support it to every stud - my garage is 24" centers and the shelves loaded with the heavy stuff are a bit sagged. BUT - they have been in place for 18 years, so I can't blame them for drooping a bit - plus I never painted them to keep the moisture out.
Scott
I use plywood for my home shop and steel or aluminum for my shop. The shelves in my shed WERE spruce until it got hit by lightning a few months ago and was gutted. Now they are ash.
I have no problems with plywood, personally. I attach a 1X2 to the front edges to help it out and support it to every stud - my garage is 24" centers and the shelves loaded with the heavy stuff are a bit sagged. BUT - they have been in place for 18 years, so I can't blame them for drooping a bit - plus I never painted them to keep the moisture out.
Scott
NHCharger
Well-known member
He's probably talking about SYP plywood, it delaminates if you spill a drop of water on it, I wouldn't use it on a dog house.
Go with 3/4" Fir plywood. Very strong, will not warp like the SYP plywood. I use the 3/4" Fir plywood for all my stair treads and risers, have not had a problem in 20 years.
I built shelves in my attached garage six years ago out of 7/16" OSB, their not treated and have not warped. You just have to make sure you nail them to the framing, almost any wood that is not attaced to the framing will eventually warp or cup.
Go with 3/4" Fir plywood. Very strong, will not warp like the SYP plywood. I use the 3/4" Fir plywood for all my stair treads and risers, have not had a problem in 20 years.
I built shelves in my attached garage six years ago out of 7/16" OSB, their not treated and have not warped. You just have to make sure you nail them to the framing, almost any wood that is not attaced to the framing will eventually warp or cup.
MXtras
Well-known member
I used 1/2" and 3/4" CDX (I think) plywood - just regular construction stuff used for underlayment. Today a sheet of the 3/4" runs about $24.
What's a sheet of the Fir go for? Does Home Cheapo or Lowes have it?
Scott
What's a sheet of the Fir go for? Does Home Cheapo or Lowes have it?
Scott
Wolverine
Well-known member
Do not under-estimate 2x4 and plywood strength! When done properly, it will NOT warp and is unbelievably strong! 
I don't recommend prefab racks either. With wood it will be stronger and the exact dimensions that YOU want!
I'm glad that I went with plywood on the side of my shelves. Plywood is VERY strong as a vertical stabiliztion force. The rest is just for asthetics.
Here you go:
I don't recommend prefab racks either. With wood it will be stronger and the exact dimensions that YOU want!
I'm glad that I went with plywood on the side of my shelves. Plywood is VERY strong as a vertical stabiliztion force. The rest is just for asthetics.
Here you go:
Attachments
danski0224
Well-known member
dink said:
I know your interest is in wood shelves. Mine was, too. I tried a wood shelf system hung on the wall, but the plywood wasn't sturdy enough without plenty of support. Twelve inch wide pine an inch thick isn't cheap, either.
I went with the galvanized Sterling hardware available at Home Depot or Menards.
Then I had a sheet metal shop bend up some 12" and 14" deep shelving out of 20ga galvanized to place on top of the Sterling brackets. The shelves are 4', 5', 8' and 10' wide. The shelves have a 2" lip down in front and up in back to add stiffness, while a hem prevents an exposed single edge. The double Sterling brackets are 2" deep anyway, so no space is lost. The supported brackets will eat usable space.
I have them on 3 walls of the garage, so there is almost 60 feet of shelving in spots. I left a space open in the middle on the back wall to stand a ladder. I probably have around 150 linear feet of shelving in total.
The concept has worked out very well. A little planning allowed me to put up the shelves without cutting them down to fit in the corners. If needed, I can adjust the shelves up or down.
The best part is that the shelves are not attached to the wall, so they go with me when I move. The only attached point is the hanging track along the top plate of the walls. The hanging standards have at least one screw, but they will not stay in the garage for the next owner.
There is probably $500 in Sterling hardware and around that much in metal. priced per square foot, it is a heck of a lot cheaper than a similar sturdy wood shelf system.
Wolverine
Well-known member
dink said:
Much appreciated kumba!
Old Moparz
Well-known member
Home Depot usually has a "cull" lumber cart in the lumber dept. (Scrap, damaged, or slightly warped wood they can't sell) It's usually half or quarter sheets of plywood, OSB, 48" long dimensional lumber like 2x4's, 1x4's & even firring strips. Sometimes they have the white melamane boards with chips in them too. If you aren't looking to spend a lot, or aren't too worried about appearance, this lumber can usually be bought up for less than $0.50 a piece & can go a long way to make shelves.
You will need to buy regular priced lumber for anything longer, but usually these sizes in the cull cart will work. I have used many slightly warped pieces that straighten out when you start assembling the shelves. I have 1x3's making up the frames & center supports, & 1/2" OSB for the shelf surface. Verticle pieces are the longer ones that are attached to the rafters so they don't lean or tip. I'm not storing cast iron blocks or heads on these, but they are very strong & also anchored to the wall with screws.
It looks a lot like NHCharger's shelving, but on a smaller, lighter duty scale.
You will need to buy regular priced lumber for anything longer, but usually these sizes in the cull cart will work. I have used many slightly warped pieces that straighten out when you start assembling the shelves. I have 1x3's making up the frames & center supports, & 1/2" OSB for the shelf surface. Verticle pieces are the longer ones that are attached to the rafters so they don't lean or tip. I'm not storing cast iron blocks or heads on these, but they are very strong & also anchored to the wall with screws.
It looks a lot like NHCharger's shelving, but on a smaller, lighter duty scale.