Wood routing help

[MillerMav]

Good afternoon all,

Quick question. I am trying to route a lip into the ID and OD of a wood cylinder.

I created two jigs, one for ID and one for OD. Here is a pic of the OD jig:

Problem with this is as it rides around it just continually eats the wood away until I break the other side (ID) of the cylinder which defeats the point.

How can I modify this jig idea or create a new jig so I can just shave off 3/16" and have it stop and not go any further into the cylinder? Do I put stops higher up like two opposing bearings or something? I figured if I keep the router bit lower than the wood then the wood would prevent the cylinder from going further.

This is my first "difficult" routing project. I have done some trim work and what not and was successful so I'm not a total newb.

Any help would be appreciated.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Sal Bandini]

rabbet bit with offset bearing?

 

[MoonRise]

Your router bit as pictured will just 'eat' the wood until it goes all the way through because the bit it totally 'exposed.

You need some sort of support for the wood. Either with a guide bushing or bearing for the bit, or buy 'burying' the bit into the guide fence so only and edge of the bit is exposed.

Think a table saw blade buried in an auxiliary fence so that it only takes off a partial sliver of material as you move the wood past said blade. Like when you are putting a thin rabbet or groove on the edge of a piece of wood.

Hmmm, make your fence taller than the cutting height of the bit so that the rest of the workpiece is supported and guided and the router bit just makes your 'lip'.

https://woodgears.ca/router_lift/fence1.jpg

Or this

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/14/67/f8/1467f8da065f9a58c948b73dc440b212.jpg

 

[NWill]

rabbet bit with offset bearing?

Yep.

Something like this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K2C87G/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[MillerMav]

rabbet bit with offset bearing?

I thought rabbit bit with a bearing but the bearing wouldn't really allow anything to be removed right? Isn't the idea of a bearing that it rides along a matching surface and you shave off to match on a different surface? There is not matching surface for this one.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[shoot summ]

Taller fence spaced back the depth of the cut you want. "Fence" could actually be a router bit guide bearing screw to the top of that guide you have that limits the depth of cut.



Or a rabbet bit.

 

[Git]

Post a pic of the work piece

If the "walls" of the piece are in good shape and are what you trying to match, all you need is a 'flush cut' bit

flush cut - bearing is near the end of the bit
pattern trimming - bearing is near the shank

http://www.rockler.com/how-to/router-bits-flush-trim-pattern-cut-handheld-router-bits/

 

[shoot summ]

Post a pic of the work piece

If the "walls" of the piece are in good shape and are what you trying to match, all you need is a 'flush cut' bit

flush cut - bearing is near the end of the bit
pattern trimming - bearing is near the shank

http://www.rockler.com/how-to/router-bits-flush-trim-pattern-cut-handheld-router-bits/

From the OP's post:

Quick question. I am trying to route a lip into the ID and OD of a wood cylinder.

 

[Git]

From the OP's post:

Quick question. I am trying to route a lip into the ID and OD of a wood cylinder.

I should learn to read better

Same principal though - bearing on end of bit smaller than the cutter diameter. The whiteside set someone posted is very nice

 

[bullnerd]

You made a circular planer! LOL!

Higher fence or rabbet bit.

Your thinking of a flush cutting bit. Rabbet bits come with different diameter bearings to make different depths of rabbet.

Real simple, google it.

Looks like a cool project.

 

[MillerMav]

Thanks for the feedback all. I checked rabbiting kits and it looks like 1/8" is the smallest increment you can do. I need to do 16ths. I'm trying to create a slip fit between the two so having fine adjustments to dial it in is important.

I have a couple matches bearings lying around. I'll probably put some inserts into my table and make some sliders with bearings on the end which will give me infinite adjustment (over a certain length). If I put the bearings a couple inches up the side of the cylinder it should prevent this scenario.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Git]

Then you change the ball bearing to a bigger size

I have personally called Whiteside because I need a pattern trimming bit to be the exact size of the ball bearing. (Most pattern trimming bits will take off about .05" so they don't cut into the pattern) The shop foreman went out on the floor and measured some bits and bearings until he found two that matched and then sent it to me. Whiteside is top of the line and they have great customer service - give them a call and tell them what you are looking for

(800)225-3982
http://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/default.html

 

[MillerMav]

Then you change the ball bearing to a bigger size



I have personally called Whiteside because I need a pattern trimming bit to be the exact size of the ball bearing. (Most pattern trimming bits will take off about .05" so they don't cut into the pattern) The shop foreman went out on the floor and measured some bits and bearings until he found two that matched and then sent it to me. Whiteside is top of the line and they have great customer service - give them a call and tell them what you are looking for



(800)225-3982

http://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/default.html

I will do that! Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[bullnerd]

"I'll probably put some inserts into my table and make some sliders with bearings on the end which will give me infinite adjustment (over a certain length). If I put the bearings a couple inches up the side of the cylinder it should prevent this scenario."

This is a great idea!

 

[MillerMav]

"I'll probably put some inserts into my table and make some sliders with bearings on the end which will give me infinite adjustment (over a certain length). If I put the bearings a couple inches up the side of the cylinder it should prevent this scenario."



This is a great idea!

Thanks. I actually took a trip to the hardware store earlier but no luck finding any parts that worked as a bearing and shaft with a solid fit.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[er3456df]

From your own post- " I figured if I keep the router bit lower than the wood then the wood would prevent the cylinder from going further."

Yeah, that's all you have to do. Just make another plywood guide, identical to the one in the pic, and stack it on top. Job done.

 

[PugetDude]

Bury half the bit in the fence you have...

 

[mattygee]

I think you can make your setup work without guide bearings. It's hard to explain without pics but in order to do what you're doing the outfeed side of your jig needs to be even with cutting edge of the bit for the OD cut. The ID cut shouldn't matter since the part of the work that is registering the against the jig is not being cut. Also for the OD the whole jig needs to be taller than the exposed bit as mentioned above. Think of how a jointer works.

 

[bullnerd]

From your own post- " I figured if I keep the router bit lower than the wood then the wood would prevent the cylinder from going further."

Yeah, that's all you have to do. Just make another plywood guide, identical to the one in the pic, and stack it on top. Job done.

Yup, I thought you said you had the bearings already. Wood will work ,and you can still make it adjustable to fine tune the fit like you said.

 

[DenisG]

Looks like you have a T-slot fence. I'd mount guides to the top of that.

 

[bullnerd]

Looks like you have a T-slot fence. I'd mount guides to the top of that.

Good call!

You could slot that radiused fence and bolt it to the top of the extrusion.

 

[MillerMav]

I gave Todd a call at Whiteside and he hooked me up with a 1900 rabbeting bit w/a B3 bearing and then two additional custom bearings and that worked perfectly! I actually need to order one more bearing to shave off an additional 16th of inch from the ID tube and I think it will work perfectly.
Amazing how clean a good bit cuts the wood. The Freud bits I buy off of Amazon aren't even close!

Thank you everyone for the feedback. When I get a semi finished product put together I'll post up some pics.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[bullnerd]

That's cool.

Yeah, id like to see some pics.

Surprised to hear about the Freud cutters. Probably knock-offs.

 

[MillerMav]

That's cool.



Yeah, id like to see some pics.



Surprised to hear about the Freud cutters. Probably knock-offs.

The Freud cutters work just fine it's just that these work that much better!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[BikerDad]

What you want to do is pattern routing.
Here is a video that can get you started.

When you create your template (or pattern, same thing, different words), you need to take into account the diameter difference of your bushing/bearing and the bit itself. There's plenty of stuff on the web on how to do it, or you can pick up a router bit by Bill Hylton.