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Wood ruins machinist's tools?

Bolster

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I have seen various warnings by machinists that you dare not work wood on your mill or metal lathe. Reasons are seldom given, just warnings.

Why? How does wood dust destroy a mill or a metal lathe?
 
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Kirbot

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It doesn't...

But!
You have to be sure to keep everything well oiled.
Wood shavings tend to soak it up.
 

mdbeck1

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On drill bits I know that you use different angles based on the type of material being drilled. The rpms and feed speed also make a difference. I'm not sure what they should be but as far as hurting the bits.... If you used wood bits on metal I could see damaging the tools or using tools set up for copper on mild steel....
 

Zebu Fellenz

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You don't want to work wood on machine tools because the sawdust will find its way into the ways of the machines behind the wipers and and wreck havoc. I saw one milling machine (Bridgeport size) that had been used to work wood and the X and Y axis were extremely tight and hard to move because sawdust had entered the machine mixed with the oil, expanded and nearly locked up the machine.

Not saying one little project will ruin a machine tool but you need to be careful to ensure the shavings and dust do not end up in the wrong places!

Erik
 

srmofo

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so basically just hook up a good dust collection system... and be sure things stay oiled
 

ihredo4

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Personally I would never use a metal machine for wood. After I did it the first time then the second would be easier and soon enough I have a screwed up machine. Heck I don't even like to have any wood work done in the same room. It will be far cheaper in the long run for me to either buy the right tool or pay to have it done for me.
 

A_Pmech

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Depends on the machine...

Smaller machines generally need less lubrication and have fewer places that leak oil. A South Bend lathe, for example, would suffer no ill effects from woodworking as it has little that requires lubrication besides the spindle journals and it's easy to keep clean.

There are manual milling machines and lathes designed specifically for patternmakers which have been around for over a century and a half. They're lighter than their metalworking cousins, but operate on the same principles. Patternmaking machine ways are are run dry, or a light coat of wax is used as it doesn't retain the wood dust.

Large metalworking machines will not take kindly to woodworking use as most require continuous automatic oiling. Wood dust would be retained in all that oil and make a big gooey mess which would become a housekeeping nightmare.
 

bobadame

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I've been doing it for years. Some of these old machine tools are so sloppy that expanded saw dust might be a good thing. The thing that really does wear out a machine tool fast is cutting abrasive materials like Macor or fiberglass, G-10 kind of stuff. Sometimes you have to do it but you've got to have a strong vacuum in place to **** the dust up as it is produced.
 
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Bolster

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Personally I would never use a metal machine for wood.....

Your answer completely avoids the question regarding WHY.

Depends on the machine...

Smaller machines generally need less lubrication and have fewer places that leak oil. A South Bend lathe, for example, would suffer no ill effects from woodworking as it has little that requires lubrication besides the spindle journals and it's easy to keep clean.

There are manual milling machines and lathes designed specifically for patternmakers which have been around for over a century and a half. They're lighter than their metalworking cousins, but operate on the same principles. Patternmaking machine ways are are run dry, or a light coat of wax is used as it doesn't retain the wood dust.

Large metalworking machines will not take kindly to woodworking use as most require continuous automatic oiling. Wood dust would be retained in all that oil and make a big gooey mess which would become a housekeeping nightmare.

Now THAT makes a lot of sense.

For example, here is a mill sold by Grizzly that is specifically marketed as a metal/wood dual use machine, based on its higher than normal speeds. Whether the speeds are appropriate is a red herring; the point is, it's a machine that's capable of handling wood and metal.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Wood-Mill-Wood-Metalworking/G9959

Note it has all the same "open ways" as regular metalworking machines.

Sounds like the strict injunction against wood on a metal machine is a bugaboo...sounds like a thoughtful approach to cleanliness (appropriate cleanup, lubrication, vacuum) would allow dual use for many machines.
 
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A_Pmech

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Bolster,

Here are a couple examples of patternmaking machine tools, specifically designed for wood:

This is a 40's era Oliver #103 pattern mill with a rotary table from Old Woodworking Machines. Notice how light the head is constructed as compared to a metalworking machine of similar size:

6669-B.jpg


An Oliver Patternmaker's Lathe from the 20's:

4592-A.JPG


A later model Oliver:

5896-A.JPG


:beer:
 

Packard V8

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Maybe those who have been telling you not to cut wood with a metal machine don't know why. I've only been milling or turning the occasional piece of wood for fifty years, so I can't really speak to the long term effects. Like using a tool post grinder; some old machinists won't have one anywhere near a lathe. Operators who don't know or care could ruin a very expensive lathe in a week. Others have been using a tool post grinder on the same lathe every day for years with no ill effects. It's all about common sense, knowing where the swarf goes, proper cleaning and maintenance.

jack vines
 

woody 73

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Coming from a woodworker I can only think this one thought:

When I turn green oak which contains tanic acid(green meaning very wet wood),the acid if not wiped off very fast will turn my lathe into a black covered metal ripe with rust in less then 24 hours. It's like watching one of those horror films when the blob things gets bigger and eats the town folks. Other then that maybe it has to do with the saw dust factor?:)
 

OccupantRJ

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I have to run wood on the company Bridgeport, and just cover the lower ways with cloths to help keep out the dust. After running a while you WILL have to use something like WD40 to flush out the quill clearances, as it will tighten up from the dust. I've been using this mill for 21 years, and have seen no ill effects from it. Like everything else in life, one has to use a little judgment. I also have to cut Bakelight and other thermoset and thermoplastics on it, as I do the product development and model making required.
 

737mechanic

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I have never turned wood on my lathe but I have milled wood on my mill and I have never seen any signs it was causing any problems with anything. All the wood I have milled was dry wood and no sap or wood juices :bounce: was being thrown around.
 

ihredo4

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Your answer completely avoids the question regarding WHY.

I was meaning that if I just make a principle of NOT running wood on my mill or lathe I WILL NOT be tempted to do it again. It may work fine to run wood on it but for the cost of the respective machines I will not take a chance. I must have a clean machine to hold the tolerances I want on my machines.
 

Aberdale

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Interesting comments so far.

I worked in a prototype shop for 12 years where we cut pattern pine, REN shape, urethane foam, birch, poplar, basswood, acrylic, polycarbonate, and various other materials on a regular basis. The main machines were a Bridgeport mill, a Hurco CNC mill, Enco metal lathe, and a CNC router table.

Although I was there for 12 years, the equipment (other than the CNC router) had been used at least 20 years prior to my arrival, and all ran just fine when I left. Perhaps some wood species may be more problematic than others. Care and maintenance is also a factor, but from my experience, I see no reason why wood cannot be cut on metal working machines.

Dale
 

rsanter

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the dust will get into all kinds of places and can cause lubrication problems

if you only do it a little and keep the machine clean of sawdust you will be fine. if you are going to do it alot thats a different story

bob
 
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