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Wood Steps Question
- Thread starter hasco
- Start date
johnre
Well-known member
Interior or exterior?
I would say to pull it off, put a bullnose on what is currently the backside, and glue together the split part as best you can with exterior grade wood glue or epoxy (assuming this is an exterior staircase).
Then re-mount it after rotating it 180 in the x-y plane.
The stress is far greater on the front of the step than the back.
I would say to pull it off, put a bullnose on what is currently the backside, and glue together the split part as best you can with exterior grade wood glue or epoxy (assuming this is an exterior staircase).
Then re-mount it after rotating it 180 in the x-y plane.
The stress is far greater on the front of the step than the back.
CraigStu
Well-known member
How about pre drilling holes and run some #10 or #12 x 3" construction screws through the bull nose into the step. Maybe every 6" along it's width. I think that reinforcement would go a long way to prevent cracking.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
That grain is setup perfectly to crack. Could try and reinforce with some screws or dowels
I have an issue with the treads cracking on the bottom step after about two years and was wondering what are thoughts on this 1" overhang.
Is the tread cracked?
I see the stringer has started...
bwringer
Well-known member
Yeah, that's pretty much destined to crack.That grain is setup perfectly to crack. Could try and reinforce with some screws or dowels
That's a middle step in the photo, and it looks OK, but what to do about it the bottom step depends on what, exactly, is creating the greater stress.
If it's the fact that it's closer to the ground, and thus weathers and deteriorates faster, then that's one thing. Or maybe it's getting damaged when mowing, etc. Maybe use a plastic composite instead of wood.
If it's further from the ground or sidewalk than the spacing between the rest of the treads, then maybe it's causing people to break stride a little too much, and step on the "nose" instead of the middle of the tread. Changing the spacing might help. Of course, that's also potentially a major project of replacing the entire set of stairs.
It might be easier to try and eliminate the overhang, perhaps with wedge-shaped reinforcements screwed to the stringer. I could also envision simply installing a plank to span between the stringers to support the overhang.
Or, you could install a metal "stair nosing" or "sill nosing" strip to reinforce this area from the top, if it looks more like people are stumbling into it, or the nose is getting damaged.
Danno1
Well-known member
How about pre drilling holes and run some #10 or #12 x 3" construction screws through the bull nose into the step. Maybe every 6" along it's width. I think that reinforcement would go a long way to prevent cracking.
I did this at a previous house. Every 12" is plenty. They never cracked again.
.
CraigStu
Well-known member
Thanks for the real world info Danno1. I had added a bullnose to some basement steps 5 yrs ago and did 4 screws in a 36" step. But that is indoors so I thought maybe more would be needed outdoors.
Although my post was if that overhang was acceptable,I really like the reinforcement idea and i will do it.
Thank you Everyone for responding.
Thank you Everyone for responding.
How about pre drilling holes and run some #10 or #12 x 3" construction screws through the bull nose into the step. Maybe every 6" along it's width. I think that reinforcement would go a long way to prevent cracking.
jar944
Well-known member
Although my post was if that overhang was acceptable,I really like the reinforcement idea and i will do it.
Thank you Everyone for responding.
The overhang is a code requirement.
Add a piece of cove molding on the bottom of the tread. A few nails & PL400. Still meets code for nosing distance & prevents flex.I have an issue with the treads cracking on the bottom step after about two years and was wondering what are thoughts on this 1" overhang.