Wood stove chimney through pole barn wall

[not sure]

Want to install a wood stove in my garage for occasional supplement heat. Stove has a 6" pipe. I do not want to go through the ceiling. Want to go though the wall then up. I know i need at least double wall to go through the wall or "b vent". I know i need a "wall thimble".

Problems. Not sure how to run a thimble through steel barn siding and seal it. Garage has steel barn siding both inside and out. Walls are 2x6 posts with 2x girts inside and out, then the corrugated steel so the walls end up being almost one foot thick. That's also a problem because the genetic menards wall thimble is only like 8" thick max. Also good chimney parts are expensive!

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[930dreamer]

I'd run the pipe vertical as high as possible and then use 45's to get out through the wall with a quality ceiling/wall kit.

 

[Jackfre]

For a wood stove you need Class A pipe that is listed to the UL103HT Standard. The most common is Selkirk and Dura-vent, both of which are excellent products. If you go to their sites they have detailed take-offs to follow. Going thru the wall and then up vs thru the roof will substantially increase the cost of the system. B-vent is for gas appliances only and cannot be used in wood appliances.

 

[Shop Specialties]

Selkirk class A pipe straight up will be cheaper and easier to install than going through the wall. Dektite rubber boot for a leak free seal on the roof.

 

[not sure]

The roof is osb and asphalt shingles. But to get there i would have to go through the ceiling which is steel barn siding, vapor barrier and 2' of blow in installation. Im trying to avoid going through all of that

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[Jackfre]

It is not difficult to get through the attic. You will cut the ceiling, install the support box or whatever method you choose and run the pipe through the roof with the appropriate flashing. It is not difficult. Just figure your center and drop a plumb-bob to locate center of the appliance and you have a straight shot through the framing. Much better operation. Much less expensive. Looks better. Oh, one thing. Do not use a galvanized flashing. With wood stoves they tend to rust and run a brown streak down the roof. Use the AL flashings.

 

[jack stand]

If your wall is metal only, (no clearance to combustibles) just shoot it straight through a wall. With shingles you prolly don't have to worry about snow sliding off and pulling you pipe down (if your'e in snow area). Normal clearance (height) for your stack height is 2' higher than anything 10' away horizontally. If you have a wood overhang you will need to keep the recommended clearance for your pipe. Use you head, you can do an inexpensive chimney but that doesn't mean you can just throw it together and cut corners. Proper bracing & materials must be used for safety. I would put a sleeve through the wall then the actual stove pipe, like a 6" long pc of 8" pipe for a 6" chimney pipe to pass through. You'll have to get creative to fasten the sleeve to the wall metal so it stay's there, but then you could just fill the space with some f/g insulation between the 2 to keep the wind, bugs & birds out.

 

[seanc_mt]

Here's how I did it in my shop....

First 4 feet of single wall black stove pipe.

Black stove pipe

Then a 90* angle
90* pipe

Then another piece of single wall pipe...

Then a single wall pipe to insulated selkirk adaptor
Adaptor

Then a piece of insulated pipe connected to it.

Insulated pipe

Going through a wall thimble.

Wall Thimble

Then outside connected to a Tee with a clean out.

Insulated Tee

Then however much insulated pipe to go up over your roof line...

Then brace the outside pipe every 8' with these...

Supports

I'm away right now but flying home tonight Ill take a few pics and post them.

 

[not sure]

Thank you. My wood stove the chimney comes straight out of the back so going up would require a 90°

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