Wood stove gurus

[keith5064]

I probably could have posted this on the hearth forum, but I don't have an account there (yet) Lol..anyway I've burned some wood in the past..just got a woodstove in my shop just this winter, and i m having a hard time getting alot of heat out of it..#1 I don't think my chimney is tall enough- doesent seem like I'm getting enough draft. #2 my wood isn't the greatest but I don't think it's terrible either. #3 is the barometric damper neccesary? It came with the stove so I used it...

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[keith5064]

Here is a picture of just some of the wood I have in the shop at the moment..

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[Bondo]

Ayuh,.... Ditch the barmetric damper, 'n put in a plate damper,....

'n I think 1 more joint of pipe on the chimney would make a world of difference,....

 

[keith5064]

That's kind of what I was thinking..I just didn't really have much of a means to add another length at the time and hoped it would work..

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[theoldwizard1]

...#1 I don't think my chimney is tall enough ...

I concur !

There is a formula some where on how close the top of your chimney can be to your roof.


Old wood burners like that are not the most efficient. Start search the web and YouTube for Rocket Heaters (NOT rocket stoves). Lots of designs, but they all follow the same up-down-up heat flow design that maximizes heat transfer to the room.

I like this design Rocket Stove Mass Heater

 

[930dreamer]

Do the outside sections of pipe clear over the side wall? If not x2 on adding another section.

 

[dfiler2]

Definitely get rid of the damper, get a 6" cap and block of the Tee. The wood doesn't look that bad, not the best but I've burned worse. The other thing besides the chimney height to look at is the draft control on that furnace, I believe those work using a piece of bi-metallic metal. Much like the old choke spring on a car, check to make sure it is adjusted so the draft is fully open when the unit is cold.

 

[Tejay]

Black pipe is installed backwards - the crimped side should be facing down and inside the next section. The clearances to roof are 36" above roof line and 24" above anything within 10'

 

[Jazz1]

I recall having to adjust barometric damper to get it rattlin' just right on my carb type oil stove to produce good heat and fire. Could be chimney height but if its too short I would guess only short 2'.
Around here damper in chimney won't pass inspection ,,,have to have damper in stove.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Like Dfiler mentions, the draft is an automatic unit I believe. I had done some reading on the DAKA stoves as I considered buying one of them from Menard's. Are you running the stove with the ash door open ? If you are, I doubt you are building a nice hot bed of coals.

I just looked at a wood stove phamplet and it states the chimney is to be 2' above any roof within 10'.

 

[FTG-05]

Black pipe is installed backwards - the crimped side should be facing down and inside the next section. The clearances to roof are 36" above roof line and 24" above anything within 10'

First thing I noticed.

And if something that simple is screwed up with that installation, what else is screwed up with it?

For example, it looks like the pipe goes from 6" to 8"; that's usually not a good idea. The chimney should stay the same diameter as recommended by the wood stove manufacturer.

As others have said, it also looks like the chimney is too short.

Good luck.

 

[Crfdell]

Chimney should be min 36" above the roof line and 24" abouve anything at. 90 to the chimney within 10' including the roof. See diagram

http://m.inspectapedia.com/?url=htt...t_Codes_Specifications.php&utm_referrer=#2889

Exterior chimney needs to heat uo for a good draft liklely from the reducers the chimney might be too big for the size of the stove.

3 screws per joint on the flue pipe and as said watch direction of the crimps.

Any other questions pm me i inspect wood stove as part of my job.

 

[Ironhorse74]

Did you post a picture of the stove? On modern stoves generaly no damper is needed or wanted. As others have mentioned the 3/2/10 rule, the connector is upside down and 3 screws per joint. Also I am not to fond of the thimble wall pass through.

Brad

27 years in the Hearth biz.

 

[keith5064]

I was wondering if 6" to 8" would have caused any troubles, I came across the 8" insulated for a good deal and didn't want to pass it up.. As far as the crimp end going into the back of the stove that's the only way I could get it to fit?

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[keith5064]

Except for the first pipe coming off the stove, I thought you'd want the crimp end inside the next piece? Just seems the exhaust would travel better that way? Although the other way condensation and dust would fall through..

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[larry_g]

I probably could have posted this on the hearth forum, but I don't have an account there (yet) Lol..anyway I've burned some wood in the past..just got a woodstove in my shop just this winter, and i m having a hard time getting alot of heat out of it..#1 I don't think my chimney is tall enough- doesent seem like I'm getting enough draft. #2 my wood isn't the greatest but I don't think it's terrible either. #3 is the barometric damper neccesary? It came with the stove so I used it...

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What I'm seeing here is that you have a wood furnace, not a wood stove. Being a furnace you have to have a cold air in pipe and a hot out pipe. I see you have a new galvanized box on the top of the furnace. Are there TWO openings under that, as shown on most at the manufactures web site? If so then try blowing cold air into one of the openings and getting hot air out of the other one...





lg
no neat sigline

 

[keith5064]

Yes there are 2 8" holes inside the galvanized box,...so I need to remove it and use one for a cold air return?

Thanks for All your help everyone! kinda feel like an idiot though for having all my chimney pipe backwards..

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[NUTTSGT]

What I'm seeing here is that you have a wood furnace, not a wood stove. Being a furnace you have to have a cold air in pipe and a hot out pipe. I see you have a new galvanized box on the top of the furnace. Are there TWO openings under that, as shown on most at the manufactures web site? If so then try blowing cold air into one of the openings and getting hot air out of the other one...





lg
no neat sigline

Umm, I might be wrong here but doesn't "cold/fresh" air come from the fan in back ?


OP's pic attached below.

 

[larry_g]

Umm, I might be wrong here but doesn't "cold/fresh" air come from the fan in back ?


OP's pic attached below.

You may very well be correct, I missed that.

OP you will have to check on how this thing really works. Are the two outlets on top connected to the fan on the back? Or is the fan connected to the firebox? I suspect that Nuttsgt may be correct.

ON EDIT;
I found manuals here; http://store.dakacorp.com/searchresults.asp?cat=56

Nuttsgt is correct on the fan. OP check out the manuals and read the one for you furnace.

lg
no neat sigline

 

[keith5064]

Wonder if it's a make or break difference on the 8" pipe vs. A 6"?

 

[keith5064]

The two holes on top are for supply air , so the back would be its source of fresh air.. Also the person I got this furnace from had upgraded the factory blower to a regular squirrel type furnace blower.



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[Slycox]

The two holes on top are for supply air , so the back would be its source of fresh air.. Also the person I got this furnace from had upgraded the factory blower to a regular squirrel type furnace blower.



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Possibly too much fan for the furnace.

 

[tlmartin84]

....

 

[Tejay]

Tlmartin you are wrong - go to any wood stove site or black pipe installation information page and it clearly states that crimped end is installed towards the appliance. Did you notice the creosote running down his pipe. It is installed incorrectly.

 

[keith5064]

I think my main focus is to install another length of chimney, and fix the piping.. I've kinda came into this winter blind as I really didn't have much for wood either.. I usually only start the stove about 1 night out of the week at the time...

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[tlmartin84]

.....

 

[Highbeam]

So the 6 to 8 is not a problem. Not ideal but these things are designed to also dump into a masonry chimney with a much larger cross sectional area so that's no problem.

The barometric damper is also fine. Due to your short chimney you probably don't need it but that just means that it won't do much for you. It won't hurt. It is VERY important that you adjust that barometric damper such that the draft in the chimney stays where it is supposed to. That barometric damper will be closed almost all the time. If you didn't adjust it then it might be open too much, spoiling your draft, causing creosote, and limiting furnace performance. If I were you I would either properly adjust it or cap it off.

Don't worry about too tight of a building. Make sure that the furnace blower is coming on when the furnace heats up.

Additional chimney can only help, the baro damper is very common on wood furnaces and will be even more important as you add chimney height. You need to set it up though.

 

[Highbeam]

Oh and the only correct way to install a chimney is in a drip proof fashion with the crimps facing the stove.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Oh and the only correct way to install a chimney is in a drip proof fashion with the crimps facing the stove.

Attachment (yes poor cell pic) taken from a state fire marshal pamphlet on wood stoves.

 

[tlmartin84]

.........

 

[Highbeam]

Attachment (yes poor cell pic) taken from a state fire marshal pamphlet on wood stoves.

I agree. That's what I said. Maybe you are concurring? The idea is that liquid stuff can run down the pipe into the stove in a "drip free" manner. Not dripping onto the floor.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I agree. That's what I said. Maybe you are concurring? The idea is that liquid stuff can run down the pipe into the stove in a "drip free" manner. Not dripping onto the floor.

Yep, agreeing/concurring. I just added the picture of the attachment for reference for a reputable source.